VRRROOOOOM! VROOOOOM!

CaptTom

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Bled the truck tonight. Only 3 ten second turns to get fuel to the lnjectors.

Smokes a little, need to time it and set the FIPL.

Idles at 500rpm, not sure if it's just a throttle assembly screw, or if it's part of the rod assy setting, or if it's just a timing issue.

Any advice?

I drove it about half a mile and already noticed a power increase. I can't wait until it's all balanced.

THX
 

Wyreth

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Personally I would simply set the throttle stop screw until it idles at 675 (that is correct IIRC) I do not believe timing would affect this that dramatically.
 

OLDBULL8

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650-675 RPM @ warm idle, 950-1000 cold Hi idle.

500 is put put, 675 is VVVRRRROOOOOM
 

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justinray

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Mine idled at 500 for 2 months, sounded like a bear on the chase, I loved it, my IP swap changed that though, now its closer to 650 again.
 

diezelcrazee

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Hey Capn, glad it all worked out for ya, bet u were a little anxious when she first sputtered. I know I was on mine, hoping everything was back where it belonged....especially the FSS. Did you make the little wire tool the manual shows to help put it back on?
 

Thefarmboy21

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Man, 30 seconds of cranking an you had fuel?!?! I've cranked and cranked mine and can't get anything. I even swapped out the IP and hotwired the FSS!!! Really getting bummed
 

funnyman06

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When I swapped out my IP it took FOREVER to get fuel to the injectors. I thought I was going to kill the batteries it took so long.
 

justinray

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I must have been lucky, turn the key for 5 seconds, fuel to injectors, another 5, fired right up, but I installed a check valve between the filter and the IP, so I don't know how much luck really had to do with it.
 

CaptTom

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Thanks fellas for the input.

I figured it was an easy day with the idle adjustment, just wanted to make sure it wasn't something I may have screwed the pooch on or overlooked.

Dieselcrazee, no I didn't make it because it all fell together quite easily. As I was putting the top back on, I offset it going on and slid it in place, aligning it as it lowered on. I did that about three times squinting every time to see if it it was aligning properly. I did straighten a paperclip though, I didn't see the reason for the bend- other than for fore/aft alignment, but the do-hickie it pushes only goes so far anyway, and by offsetting the top, moving it into place as it lowered worked the same.The stop solenoid arm in my top end is pretty long too, so it helped align.

Tricks to help us bleed the system:

1) E-pump, E-pump, E-pump, E-pump. Did I mention the E-pump really helped?

2) Manually fill the IP through the return line, easy with e-pump. Easiest to do with the return line hose barb out of the IP, gives the bubbles a place to go and fuel to slip in- slow fill is key. The E-pump will do this for you. As the E-pump pumps, it will pump through the return line all the way to the IP, albeit slowly because of the restrictor in the "filter housing" return line barb.....another great place to vent air from if your schraeder gives up the ghost and won't purge. Doing it this way also fills all return lines, filter and everything but the IP hi-pressure lines.

3) All injector lines loose..... yeeeeup! Every one of them. The reason I do this is, the injector lines never fill up in order. I learned this long time ago bleeding boats at sea. If you only crack one or two, or what you may logically think is the one to do, you're automatically wrong... Murphy ensures it. Also, with every cap loose, you will see the "one" get wet first. Tighten immediately. Next another one or two will get wet, next thing you know, things are popping off and the engine is running, rough, but running. Turn off engine, make sure all remaining caps are wet, tighten, dry off wet, restart and check for leaks. When I loosen injector caps, I first make sure they're seated, then back off a turn or two, just enuff to cause an air leak with minimal fuel escaping. You don't want this stuff spraying and draining everywhere, unless you're degreasing the engine too- JK. Fire hazard is a boaters biggest concern, this just carries over to vehicles for me.

4) My crazie cautious side was screaming at me even with 10 second rolls. When I quit cranking, I rested the starter for about 5 minutes between- even that made me squirm.

5) Have a battery charger on for the duration, I had it set to 30Amps because I didn't need 75, wanted more than 10 and 2 isn't really sufficient for duration rolling.

Thanks again for the pointers.
 

Agnem

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To each his own, but I'd take issue with manually filing through the return line. That's a lot of extra effort that really isn't needed. If you activate the cold idle advance, then the top of the pump is vented, and you will have no problem pushing fuel through the pump the normal way... through the fuel inlet.

My technique for bleeding injector lines allows you to monitor progress without allowing air back in the lines. Simply keep the nuts tight, and when you finish your crank cycle at full throttle, loosen each nut and listen for a little Phhhttt.. of air, then retighten. The compressed air coming out of the line confirms fuel is getting closer to the injector. This has always worked very well, and you can normally have the engine running in 3 cycles of 10 seconds each. Dont' forget to disconnect your glow plug circuit. No need to waste battery on them.
 

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