Turbo is on...now CARNAGE

towcat

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Also is there a trick for getting the Up pipe seperated from the exhaust housing? Mine's stuck on there pretty good & makes removal of the turbo almost impossiable.
I beat myself to death over a week trying to get it separated. I gave up.
disconnect the master cylinder, steering column shaft and undo the body mount bolts. LIFT THE CAB 2 INCHES. The whole damn thing will now slip out.
god, I was pissed when I found out how easy it was.
 

k_williams1982

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I'd have to check my turbo to know for sure the model (All I know is it's an ATS), but when it was on the '86 the valley pan would fill with oil and I couldn't figure out where it was coming from. I found a small leak at the oil supply line into the turbo and fixed that. I still had oil collecting in the valley pan. When I swapped the turbo over to the '85, Punkmechanic and Towcat told me to punch about 5-6 holes into the lower part of the pan. I took a broke 3/8 extension and used the grinder to put a nice sharp point on it and punched about 8 holes in the lower part (I was told more is better than not enough). I was also told not to punch in too deep. I installed a new "drain" hose from the turbo to the valley pan and now no more oil leak. Before it would pool up and then start running down the back of the engine and onto the exhaust, starter, and torque convertor cover. I checked the lower part of the valley pan on the '86 and found that it didn't have any holes added.
 

Cat_Rebel

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If you asked questions ahead of time, you'd be buried in info and lots of pretty pics.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=16267
Mel, Zigg and I beat the life out of this one a year ago:D

DOH, I know I should have asked first but figured it was straight foward enough. So the question is do I just pound the holes in where the CDR holes is? I don't go off to the outside of it at all right? Just inside the hole itself? :confused:
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I beat myself to death over a week trying to get it separated. I gave up.
disconnect the master cylinder, steering column shaft and undo the body mount bolts. LIFT THE CAB 2 INCHES. The whole damn thing will now slip out.
god, I was pissed when I found out how easy it was.

WOW, glad to see I'm not alone on this. Took me about half a day to get it in & now she don't wantta come out. Looks like I'll be lifting the cab soon. :puke:
 

Cat_Rebel

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Alright one question I never saw the answer to is where can you get a new grommet? Will it cross refrence with say a 93-94 factory turbo? Or do I have to go to some parts store & see what they have laying around for grommets?
 

Diesile

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That address in the previous post will get results. ATS sat on my grommet/o-ring order for
over a month until the guy at the address called them. He has taken over that part of ATS .
 

6 Nebraska IDIs

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Dude, the 088 kit uses the CDR grommet available with any valley pan kit. You could possibly get it separately but I've had no luck with that around here. Since most our trucks have the 093 factory turbo kit on it and those require a special grommet I have a slew of spare CDR style 088 grommets.
 

Cat_Rebel

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Aside from ordering it can I find one anyplace else or get one at the dealer? Rather not order it & wait a week for it to show up. Truck's already been down a week, I have another truck so it's not a HUGE deal just would like to have it running again soon.
 

typ4

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they are no longer available from ford, I nation searched for the last 5 I bought and they said no more in the ford system.
 
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