Oil drain question

I,m about 80% done with the instalation of my new hypermax turbo. I finally got both bolts in the down pipe , all the tuff stuff is over. I now realize I did not punch the holes in the valley pan. Do I need to undo every thing I just did and punch the holes, or will it drain ok without the holes. It's an 87 with a 6.9
any thoughts would be appreciated, Thanks.

I don't think I follow You but I would not be punching any holes on the valley pan to drain oil from the turbo since this one uses the same hole for the cdr valve only this time with a different stand pipe and adapter. Is this a pulse turbo? Meaning the last version.

Yes, you'd better punch some holes in the valley pan. I didn't when I installed my ATS turbo a year ago, and have dealt with an oil leak ever since. I'm gonna put the holes in mine this week when installing my new IP and injectors...

EZ- You're supposed to use a punch to poke some holes in the lower portion of the valley pan (through the CDR hole opening) to assist in oil drainage when installing a turbo. I'm pretty sure that's the source of the oil leak on my truck, as the oil pools up in there, and runs out the top when the lower portion of the pan gets full. There was a thread a while back where someone (towcat?) posted some great pics of the valley pan that makes it pretty clear.

Ryan

I'm no expert on the turbo setups on these, but i just bought a new valley pan gasket for my '92 that I'm instaling an ATS turbo on, and the valley pan gasket is identical for a '92 non turbo and a '94 factory turbo, so I'd venture to guess that the internal holes are of sufficient size for oil drainage.

--------Robert

Yes it's the pulse turbo, thier instructions say to punch three holes down through where the cdr went. I was reading Mels article, and in it he said he didn't punch the holes either. Hypermax instructions say this may or may not be a problem on a case by case basis???

The valley pan is designed to segregate out larger oil droplets from the vapor. The baffling opening is higher than the CDR hole. There's two small drainback holes are too small to handle the volume of oil coming from a oil drainback from a turbo. I've posted my bitter lessons of dealing with this mess, but hell...if you want to learn the hard way....knock yourself out.
If you have a new pan the best thing to do is to stagger the drainback holes between the 2nd and 3rd layers since you have access to both sides. If its already installed, the best thing to do is to swiss cheese the hell out of it with a punch.

towcat said:

The valley pan is designed to segregate out larger oil droplets from the vapor. The baffling opening is higher than the CDR hole. There's two small drainback holes are too small to handle the volume of oil coming from a oil drainback from a turbo.

Click to expand...

Plus to add that when the oil is cold it is of course thicker than when warmed up.
Imagine how fast the oil can fill the top of the valley pan in cold temps like here in Michigan.










Don't ask me how I know............

I never heard/read of this, the valley pan on My truck have the cdr hole and there is another hole a few inches behind it that is supposed to be where it breaths (?). This is interesting, any pics of this holes? I don't have oil leaks on My engine except the one next to the main rear seal there is a square plug that leaks, but nothing too bad.

Yeah I remember that from the Hypermax instruction manual about a case by case basis. I guess they mean it may not be a problem if your valley pan is designed for a turbo, but someone has said the turbo and non turbo valley pans are identical? I think I will remember to punch the extra drainback holes. Is there not some danger in doing this of introducing metal sharps into the oil system? Thanks,
J.D.

its a good thing I brought my pic CD with me. one more time guys....
you're looking at a section that has three layers. you see the top and the bottom easily. the second layer is visible throught he hole. the thin slot on the side is where the vapors is drawn into the baffling. the holes at the bottom is for the oil drainback that is condensed from the vapors. note the slot is at a higher point than the CDR hole. Note the stock drainback holes are less than a 1/4". without swisscheesing the second layer the drainback oil must fight a uphill battle or wait for a hard corner in order to get to the holes in the third layer.
my suggestion is to punch holes with max prejudice in the second layer so its easier for the oil to get to the third layer. IF you haven't installed the turkey pan yet, punch holes or enlarge the ones already existing.
oh yea, by you're punching holes not drilling. by punching holes you're not introducing metal debris just forcing open holes.

hmmm, I'd bet this is why mine drips more oil in the winter?

Calvin's pictures do tell the story, but only that version of it. There have been different revisions to this part of the valley pan over the years, and the one I put in the Moose Truck did not need any holes in it. The opening near the top of the baffle was larger than the one in Calvin's picture, and there were I believe 3 holes in the bottom. Since you've already got it all together, I'd let it ride and see what happens. Worse case, you'll have a mess and an opportunity to clean it up when you take the turbo off to punch the holes.

I went ahead and pulled the turbo off and punched the holes. I just knew that if I didn't do it I wouldn't sleep very good. And besides I figured it would be easier to work on new parts anyway. Thanks for your help.

Good deal. Now what is the best tool with which to punch drainback holes on an already installed valley pan assuming I do not want to pull mine again? I heard somewhere an ice pick or similar tool was recommended.

I poked at mine today with a punch and a hammer- seemed to work just fine.

Ryan