Trans Oil Cooler? and Location

[Optikalillushun]

ya know, it just might. add in the other thread about a shift kit and some members rebuild experiences (david85 for one)...hmm

 

[dakotajeep]

Got the cooler installed today.....low speed driving I saw as high as 190F and at highway speed 65MPH it went back down to 175F.

So far its looking good....I will report more info as I have it and will take pics....

Thad

 

[international]

Got the cooler installed today.....low speed driving I saw as high as 190F and at highway speed 65MPH it went back down to 175F.

So far its looking good....I will report more info as I have it and will take pics....

Thad

I think the trans temp should ideally be 50 degrees below engine tempature...can anyone confirm this?

 

[dakotajeep]

If so I might bypass the radiator cooler and see what my numbers climb too. Right now they seem to rise with the engine temp and stay there....I think it could be better....

 

[Optikalillushun]

Okay Thad,

About four years ago, give or take, I replaced the transmission pan (E4OD), and added a transmission heat sensor and gauge, and a transmission cooler. As I understand it this is what you want to do. I'd suggest that, as part of the process, you change the fluid in the transmission. It's easy enough to do. I'll send instructions if you want.

Since I have the photo location copied, I'll paste that in first. You can see the new, deeper, pan, and the heat sensor.

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I bought the cooler from Dieselsite, a major advertiser here on this site. They couldn't have been more helpful. I'll deal with them again in a heartbeat. The cooler I bought is significantly more efficient and effective than the tube and fin model you're looking at. It's also more expensive, but not nearly as expensive as a new transmission.

TruCool Max Transmission Cooler

Almost forgot part numbers for the deeper pan. I'll simply cut and paste an old posting from Birken Vogt.

********************
If you should want the deep oil pan for your E4OD with the drain plug and the reusable gasket, here is the part number for the kit, includes pan, gasket and bolts necessary to do the conversion:

F7TZ-7A194-DA

The pan itself, for the later E4ODs, is a

F81Z-7A194-BA

I had a hard time finding these numbers so I thought I would post it.

Birken
************************

i recieved my pan friday and compared it to my stock pan. it was no different that the drain plug and the rail was smooth compared to the stock which had humps for the cork gasket. maybe it was a 2wd/4wd thing where the 4wd had more capacity?

 

[dakotajeep]

So far I have put a few thousand miles on this (all unloaded). Here are my averages (the sensor is in the filter head):

170F with air on, mostly level terrain @ 65 mph.
185F with air on, level highway @ 70-75 mph
190-195F air on, going through rolling hills.

The thing is that once the tranny temps get to a temp they dont cool down. Basically, what ever the highest temp is it stays there until I let the truck idle for a few minutes. I might see if I can bypass the radiator cooler and only use the aux cooler to see if the temps come down after getting to the 195F mark.

Here are some pics of my setup.

I mounted the gauge under the ash tray:

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This picture of the filter head is taken from the passenger side fender well. I dont like how I mounted it since changing out the filters will not be fun....

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This picture is to show where I placed the Perma-Cool Cooler:

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[Sycostang67]

Bypassing the radiator portion of the cooler allowed my transmission to cool down a lot quicker. Otherwise it was like you, it just hung at the same temp as the radiator.

 

[dakotajeep]

I might run my stock aux cooler instead of the lower portion of the radiator. It just seems that the tranny portio of the radiator is absorbing heat from the upper portion of the radiator and not able to dissapate it!

Thad

 

[RLDSL]

Of course, if you are doing any serious towing, you should be running a quality synthetic in the thing if you really want to make it last.

 

[dakotajeep]

I tow rarely. I have towed and it does well.

The truck for me is more of a "Always Ready" type of thing. I can pull, carry a load or transport people (ie the CC) at a moments notice.

 

[Goofyexponent]

i hardly tow at all, but I was thinking this through today. I helped a buddy change the rad in his 1999 neon, and we had to take the A/C cooler off before we installed it. The A/C cooler is almost new and would easily fit in my truck as a trans cooler. It is about 13" tall X 25" long and just a single core. I can have it for nothing if I want it. Would this be a good idea on a daily driver?

 

[RLDSL]

i hardly tow at all, but I was thinking this through today. I helped a buddy change the rad in his 1999 neon, and we had to take the A/C cooler off before we installed it. The A/C cooler is almost new and would easily fit in my truck as a trans cooler. It is about 13" tall X 25" long and just a single core. I can have it for nothing if I want it. Would this be a good idea on a daily driver?

That one has my favourite price tag on it That ought to make a heck of a cooler.

 

[Goofyexponent]

look slike I got a weekend project now! I just finished last weekend's project tonight....cutting the claws of my tempermental cat lol....only got 3 good scratches this time lol.

 

[OLDBULL8]

I might run my stock aux cooler instead of the lower portion of the radiator. It just seems that the tranny portio of the radiator is absorbing heat from the upper portion of the radiator and not able to dissapate it!

Thad

You really don't want to do that if you live in a cold climate. There is a bypass coolant hose, it tees off the heater hose to the bottom of the radiator. That is used to warm the bottom of the rad where the tranny cooler lines run to warm up the tranny fluid quicker in the colder weather.
The return fluid from the cooler is used only for lubrication in the tranny to the various rotating parts, not for any hydraulic use such as operating the clutches, cold oil don't flow very good, besides that the return fluid has to pass thru an orfice and check valve. Ideally you want the tranny temp. to reach 120-150 as soon as possible.

All the guys putting 2 or more aux. coolers on are only restricting the flow of the volume of lubrication. Any single aux. cooler rated for the GVW is sufficient. You can run a tranny at 250-260 for a short period of time (5 minutes) without any consequence. Synthetic oil can run higher temps. for longer periods. NEVER run a tranny that is overfilled, that is the quickest way to toast them, the oil gets aireated by rotating parts, the pump has a hell'va time pumping oil and air, air doesn't lubricate very well. I'm sure this will be debated, but, OH WELL. Most of this I have learned over the years from an un-named Ford transmission engineer.

By the way if anyone wants to flush the tranny go to the IDI Tech Articles, for how to do it.

 

[dakotajeep]

Right now I am not concerned about the fluid being too cold. The way it is now the fluid gets to the 170F mark in a few minutes of driving.

My main concern is that the fluid gets heated by the routing of the up-pipe and down-pipes for the turbo. The guy that rebuilt my tranny expressed concern about the tranny getting to much heat. My goal is to disapate as much heat as possible.

I understand what you are saying though. I may leave the routing of the fluid as is for now. I am just curious if it would make that much of a difference in operation. The point being maybe during warmer parts of the year I would excluded the radiator for the factory aux cooler and during the winter use the radiator......may not be worth the hassle?

Thad