Timing problems

Clb

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They claimed the aftermarket tanks they put in were the wrong size and that's why it runs outta diesel at 1/4 tank. Sounds iffy to me. I can fill it up waayyyyyy past the full mark on the gauge though, it's like the needle is just in the wrong place.



I'm gunna call bs " used car salseman" yes
Interesting
Old bull8 has a great fsv ( edit not fss) 101
To look at.
I'm chasing issues with mine now.
 
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riotwarrior

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Seeing as it is cut and hacked apart....locate what you need to fix it as per many suggestions here and do it.

If you want to have it all mechanical why not have it all stock too....

Just saying....
 

Shawn MacAnanny

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The orange part is a back pressure duck bill check valve that can fall off too and drain the return line. Where i have the rubber line clamped and cut like a reverse fish mouth is what you can do to replace a failed shower head. This is the sending unit i extended for my 38 gallon rear tank.

I still think you need to invest in a cheap electric pump, gas rated is fine, then run it from a can and see if it runs. It'll suck full from the can and return it to the tank, so if you want to run it for an extended period of time you need to route the return line back to the can too. It would take you less than 10 minutes to do this and eliminate your tank, lines, pick ups, senders, filter, and fsv from the cause. Then you can gradually connect the rubber line from the electric pump to varying parts of the system until you find the culprit.
 

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madpogue

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I want this truck to be completely mechanical, I'm even considering a C6 swap.
You'd still have a 3G alternator with an electronic voltage regulator. Then there's the VSS/PSOM, but of course the truck (except for the E4OD) would run without it. Better tranny swap choice would be a ZF5. To go fully mechanical, you'd have to get a 1G alternator and mechanical regulator.

They claimed the aftermarket tanks they put in were the wrong size and that's why it runs outta diesel at 1/4 tank. Sounds iffy to me. I can fill it up waayyyyyy past the full mark on the gauge though, it's like the needle is just in the wrong place.
Either the showerhead (pickup strainer) has fallen off, or the sending unit is way out of adjustment, or perhaps it's the alignment of the needle. When it runs out, and you refill it, how much fuel does it take?

Is this happening on both tanks? What size tanks are they, according to "them"?
 

icanfixall

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On the shower head is a orange color suction valve that operates only when the suction strainer gets plugged up. So tanks have water in them and freeze up stopping fuel from being sucked up. Thats when the higher up suction valve will suck open and allow fuel to get to the lift pump and then filter and finally the injection pump. As already posted. The 5/16 return line in the tanks does have a duck bill valve to keep the return fuel from siphoning out when the engine is shut down.
 

Sparky95

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By completely mechanical I mean no computers. I was considering a ZF5 swap but it's a whole lot easier to burn up a clutch than it is a torque converter and I have a feeling I'm gonna be getting enough "stuck in the mud" calls that I could open an off-road wrecker service.

18-19 gallons, in the front and and around 15-16 in the rear which is about the same as my half ton with two tanks. PO couldn't remember how big they were supposed but the aftermarket smaller tanks was what they said when they warned me about running out at 1/4.

I'm gonna go run around town and see if I can't find some clear hose and a cheap pump.
 

79jasper

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Being "stuck in the mud" you will burn up a auto ten times over before you burn up a clutch.



*with experienced driver*

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Sparky95

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With my half ton with a manual I never had a problem pulling people out, but I was always worried about the clutch. I figure I can get the strap tight then just ease onto it and drag them on out without snatching
 

rustygold

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Tractor supply has some 3/8 clear lines if you have one in your area. I gave up on changing all the line problems down I changed everything in the fuel system that was rubber. That included the fuel heater in the filter head works great.


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Sparky95

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Tractor supply has some 3/8 clear lines if you have one in your area. I gave up on changing all the line problems down I changed everything in the fuel system that was rubber. That included the fuel heater in the filter head works great.


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Yea we have one in town. That's where Advance told me to try. I haven't made it there yet though
 

Agnem

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With regard to the timing light, or any timing method using a line clamp, it's not uncommon for readings to become erratic at higher RPM's. The technology works by sensing a capacitance change in the steel. This occurs because the line swells a little bit with each injection. It doesn't matter where on the line you put the clamp. The whole line swells, all at once. Unfortunately the changes are really small and vibration and other things can affect it. I've timed trucks where the timing is rock solid, and I've timed trucks where the reading jumps all around. It takes a practiced eye to tell the valid readings from the wrong ones under those conditions. Because the human eye is fallible where optical things that exist for only a moment can appear different then they really are (motion pictures are a great example), the timing light method is not the greatest when it comes to timing these trucks. A digital meter with the correct crankshaft probe and accurate readings is far easier to read under less than ideal conditions. My suggestion would be to time the truck by ear, and trust your gut more than your eyes when it comes to this kind of stuff. Remember that you can manually energize or de-energize the cold advance solenoid to obtain a 2 degree change in timing, so if you set it and think you would like to see what it is like with 2 more degrees of advance, just turn the cold solenoid on. If you would like to try 2 degrees retarded, simply time the truck with the cold advance on, and then disconnect it to retard. In this manner you can try 2 different timing settings without actually moving the pump. This will get you by until someone with a digital meter or practiced eye can look at it.
 

icanfixall

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Very well said Mel. I have not timed as many engines as you have but I sure have seen the timing jumping around too. I also feel shooting a light at the timing tab is not the best way to time our engines when there is a microprocessor that does all this for you.
 

Sparky95

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Ive been busy the past couple days and haven't been able to do anything with it. However, with the new olives it starts MUCH better. I'm still going to change the rubber lines when I get a chance. I will also look at getting my hands on a Kent Moore or Snap-on setup. @Agnem is it normal for factory turbo and bull moose pumped trucks to smoke white constantly? Or is something on mine causing it to not burn all the fuel?
 
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