Timing problems

[Sparky95]

So I timed the truck today. Another mechanic and I timed the pump by ear after I installed it. It had a slight rattle under acceleration, a constant white fog at idle, EGTs were 800-1000 at 55 mph, OD off, 2100 rpms. Checked the timing with summit racing 7 inch timing tape, a ferret adapter, and an ancient sears timing light. 12° BTDC. Adjusted it. Turned the pump the wrong way, towards the passenger side. The rattle smoothed out and the fog turned into a haze. It also started a LOT easier. (Glowplugs are disconnected, I'm taking this rig one problem at a time.) Checked it and it was at 18° BTDC. ?? Went back the other way with it. Now I have 7° degrees BTDC, the white fog, harder starts, a one hellacious fuel knock sounding rattle. EGTs are 600-700 at 55 in 4th.

94 cclb F350, factory turbo, 37x12.50 military tires, el cheapo cold air intake. An entire passel of E4OD issues. Accurate Diesel reman code G injectors less than 200 miles ago. Dipaco return lines, one piece fram fuel water separator, and a bull moose IP all just installed.

All timing was done at operating temperature.

RPMs are coming from the tach.

Piezo adapter was in between the last bend and the inline adaptor on the #1 cylinder.

I am just over fueling the hell out of it, causing the ridiculous rattle, white cloud, and harder starts?

 

[Sparky95]

With the old IP, it didn't white smoke, cranked instantly with no glowplugs, and didn't rattle. I reckon it was a stock pump, maybe turned up a little? I dunno. It idled at 800 perfectly smooth. The bull moose idles at 650 and it's almost borderline loping at idle. That's with all the different timings it's been at.

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

Are you sure your tape and ancient timing light are correct? If you spent the money on a ferret why not invest in a good timing light? Timing is the biggest factor in keeping egts and power where they should be. I use this timing light
INNOVA 3568 Digital Timing Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVYGV4/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_oZL9wbKJ50QY1

Did you remove gear cover when you replaced ip? Maybe some debris got into one of the injectors? Did you cap them when removing pump?

 

[Shawn MacAnanny]

I'd try a different timing light with programmable advance, then start unhookin injectors one at a time until rattle goes away. Maybe you have one bad injectors over fuelling or maybe something go down into one

 

[Clb]

A tooth off
Bad light

 

[Sparky95]

I didn't pull the gear housing off. That's not saying it hasn't been done. And everything's clean when I put it in

 

[Sparky95]

Would the engine even run at 18° before TDC?

 

[OLDBULL8]

You have to time it at 2000 RPM hot. If you can't preset the advance on the timing light. Search for riotwarrior's timing with a tape. He might chime in.

 

[Sparky95]

You have to time it at 2000 RPM hot. If you can't preset the advance on the timing light. Search for riotwarrior's timing with a tape. He might chime in.

That's what I did.

 

[Clb]

Would the engine even run at 18° before TDC?

I think we saw -7 once on a kent moore
Ran well enuff to freeway fly it.

 

[IDIoit]

i would recommend timing it with another method before diving into it.
i do believe your numbers on the timing tape are fowled.
if they are correct, it sounds like youre a tooth advanced.
but i would confirm your numbers a different way.
check the timing registry for someone in your area with a digital meter.

these engines will run from 20* to -9* the trick is to get it to run where its happy.

 

[Sparky95]

20 to -9 as in 20 BTDC to 9 ATDC?

 

[IDIoit]

20 to -9 as in 20 BTDC to 9 ATDC?

"- indicates ATDC"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Za5sKp04btg

 

[Sparky95]

From what I've read on here around 10* BTDC you start banging up your wrist pins, so 18* before should not sound like its running better. But I also have a whole lot more fuel with not much more air. So maybe injecting it so early is giving it more time to actually burn the fuel?

 

[IDIoit]

accurate diesel isnt really known for its accuracy, FYI