Ticking and Intermittent Valve Noises

[plywood]

Yeah I did the tdc for each cylinder method and found the "what cylinder when" probably here. Still don't understand why the air method but maybe in certain cases there is a reason.

 

[crash-harris]

Yeah I did the tdc for each cylinder method and found the "what cylinder when" probably here. Still don't understand why the air method but maybe in certain cases there is a reason.

In non-interference engines, I'd you have a broken valve spring or need to replace a seal and nothing else that would necessitate head removal, you can use a compression tester adapter to connect an air compressor (full on, full pressure) to hold the valve you are working with to keep it from dropping into the cylinder. Glad that's not the case here as it could fail easily with a possible valve seating issue or bad piston rings.

 

[plywood]

Guess I was too short. I understand the method, just don't understand why it would be the preferred method.

 

[crash-harris]

In this case, it wouldn't be. Only in a non-interference engine where valves would drop, or have the potential to drop, too far into the cylinder to get the spring/retainer/keepers back on.

 

[Thewespaul]

I’ve used it on these engines, it’s not proffered because it relys on the valve to seal to hold it up, if the valve train is having issues it’s just too risky

 

[Macrobb]

At 0 degrees(timing mark on damper = 0 degree mark on front plate), #1 will be at tdc.
also, if you use a lever-style valve spring compressor, it's easy to know if you are right or not - the valve will freely compress without releasing the retainer if there is no piston to stop the valve. So you can 'feel' the piston in place.

 

[Hydro-idi]

I’ll shine a little light on this issue since I delt with this before when I rebuilt my engine from hell a while back.
If you have a consistent chuffing sound, turn off engine and pull valve covers. Put pressure on each of the rockers towards the top (where the oil hole is) with your hand. If there are any rockers that move during this test, you have identified a faulty lifter that is unable to hold oil pressure. They should all be very stiff, with no up and down movement. Some side to side play is acceptable. You should not be able to compress lifter with your hand if they are all working properly.
This might also be a good time to remove the rockers and check to make sure you don’t have any bent pushrods.
If rockers, lifters, and pushrods check out, the problem is within your cylinder heads. At this time, you’ll need to pull the heads to properly diagnose and fix the problem.

 

[crash-harris]

I’ll shine a little light on this issue since I delt with this before when I rebuilt my engine from hell a while back.
If you have a consistent chuffing sound, turn off engine and pull valve covers. Put pressure on each of the rockers towards the top (where the oil hole is) with your hand. If there are any rockers that move during this test, you have identified a faulty lifter that is unable to hold oil pressure. They should all be very stiff, with no up and down movement. Some side to side play is acceptable. You should not be able to compress lifter with your hand if they are all working properly.
This might also be a good time to remove the rockers and check to make sure you don’t have any bent pushrods.
If rockers, lifters, and pushrods check out, the problem is within your cylinder heads. At this time, you’ll need to pull the heads to properly diagnose and fix the problem.

The only sounds out of the 4 that I've heard that had been constant has been the thumping and ticking. While I had the valve covers off, I attempted to spin each pushrod (none would spin), I got a tiny amount of side play from the rockers. I didn't try to compress the lifters by hand or remove each pair of rockers and pushrods, but I did pull rockers and pushrods for #2 since the ticking has always sounded loudest there with a hose (poor man's stethoscope). I also jumped the starter relay and watched for any abnormal movement while they ran through their cycles.

I didn't think to try to hand compress the lifters, or want to remove all the rockers and pushrods at the time as I was doing this in the cold in the driveway at sunset...and inbetween tearing down a '98 ****** ZX2 for the first time and waiting in the time belt tensioner to arrive at the store. So I admit I was in a bit of a rush to check our and get it back together. I did get it back together just in time for the part to arrive at the store and to drive the truck to get it.

 

[crash-harris]

Anyone know which brands of lifters have needle bearings?

@Hydro-idi

Did the Johnson Hylift lifters got directly from them end up at your door for less than $140?

Still haven't gotten any word on actual measured pushrods length, but 9.9890" overall length seems to be the only thing available that's not Enginetech/Redline. Rockauto has the 9.9890" Sealed Power pushrods. Planning on pulling the trigger on the parts soon as well as some Trick Flow valve springs (same as Comp 910's).

 

[riotwarrior]

Easy...pull fss wire 1st....then remove no 1 cyl gp....install comp tester..quick bumps on starter till tdc mark on harmonic comes up...then hand crank it till lines up with 0 deg timing mark.

You want short bumps not long ones...slowy bring engine to tdc...if no comp tester to see pressure build..a finger on hole does same thing...but 3 armed men hard to find to bump hold and turn by hand

JM7.3CW Eh!

 

[Hydro-idi]

Anyone know which brands of lifters have needle bearings?

@Hydro-idi

Did the Johnson Hylift lifters got directly from them end up at your door for less than $140?

Still haven't gotten any word on actual measured pushrods length, but 9.9890" overall length seems to be the only thing available that's not Enginetech/Redline. Rockauto has the 9.9890" Sealed Power pushrods. Planning on pulling the trigger on the parts soon as well as some Trick Flow valve springs (same as Comp 910's).

Yes the hylift lifters I bought a while back were around $140 for a set if I remember correctly. And yes, both the hylift and sealed power branded lifters have needle roller bearings.
Go with the sealed power pushrods from rockauto.

 

[crash-harris]

Excellent. Thanks for all the info guys. Found a new set of JH B2104 lifters on ebay for that price. After driving yesterday, with the ticking and a light squeal that I thought was the throw out bearing, I'm thinking it might actually be valves. I had the thought that the squeal, only at higher RPM's (highway speeds), is coming more from the front. Harder to tell with the floor rotting out.

 

[crash-harris]

Valve springs came down to the Trick Flow equivalents, plus shipping and tac since they were being sold by Summit Racing (via ebay) and the actual Comp Cams 910-16's for a few bucks more with free shipping (cheaper due to no tax, also via ebay). Looks like I'll be digging into this once the parts all arrive. I did just put new valve cover gaskets on, but I'm hoping the rubber will reseal so I don't have to replace them again. Afraid I'll find at least one loose valve guide while I'm in there.

If it's just the valves sticking and there's no play between the stems and guides, is there any way I could smooth them out without removing the heads, instead of just relying on the increased pressure from the Comp Cams 910 springs?

 

[79jasper]

Not really a good way to get lapping compound in there with the head on. And I wouldn't want that in the cylinder anyways.
So my answer would be no, not a good way to "unstick" valves with the head on.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk

 

[Hydro-idi]

With all the work it sounds like your about to do, go a little further and take the heads off. It’ll be much easier going that route if you can.