plywood
Recovered N/A
All that makes me think a crack in the head. Just a guess. I think I would start it with the valve cover off and see what I hear.
Ticking and Intermittent Valve Noises
- Thread starter crash-harris
- Start date
pelky350
Full Access Member
If cylinder is at tdc wouldn't the valve not be able to drop more than like a few thousandths?
crash-harris
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Anyone know off hand how much pressure was used to keep the valves seated?
I'm sure the head has cracks, but I haven't lost any coolant or gotten milky oil. I guess that could be contributing to blow by, potentially in the driver's side head. But the top of that head, even though it's darker than the other side, is all uniform (no lighter/darker spots).
I'm sure the head has cracks, but I haven't lost any coolant or gotten milky oil. I guess that could be contributing to blow by, potentially in the driver's side head. But the top of that head, even though it's darker than the other side, is all uniform (no lighter/darker spots).
if that piston is at tdc then you really wouldn't have to pressurize the combustion area.
pelky350
Full Access Member
If your chose to pressureize the cylinder to hole the valve up and take a spring off if not at tdc if that valve happen to have any damage or leak it could fall in or be bumped in on accident it seems a little risky to me
crash-harris
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That's good. I didn't know exactly how far the valve could drop with the piston at TDC. If I can pull valve springs with the piston at TDC and no air compressor involved, that would be much better. I'll just have to make sure the piston is at TDC and dig around on how to find it for each cylinder since I can't use the 3/8" extension trick.
could you go by firing order? or just feel the air from the GP hole when you rotate the engine.
crash-harris
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No way I would not rotate each cylinder to the top doing that. Especially since one thing I'll be checking for are damaged/worn guides. I know the IDI is an interference engine, just didn't realize how much the valve would drop at TDC.
crash-harris
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IIRC, somewhere, someone had listed where the crank needs to be to hit TDC for each cylinder.
Okay you are confusing yourself, with the piston at tdc there is no way to loose the valve, no need for air or anything fancy. Nada.
Compressed air works and is a reliable way of holding the valves up and I’ve done it when just upgrading valve springs on an already healthy engine, with your engine having valve issues already, I would not use this method.
Compressed air works and is a reliable way of holding the valves up and I’ve done it when just upgrading valve springs on an already healthy engine, with your engine having valve issues already, I would not use this method.
crash-harris
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Correct. Particularly since the or IDI's have no room to drop the valve with the piston at TDC, then there's no need for air anyway. I wouldn't be able to do the same thing on my 300 with pistons at TDC without compressed air.
I think Gary @icanfixall or Bill @OLDBULL8 has posted which 2 are at the top for each revolution of the crank.
Also, when you have the valves "loose". with no springs on them, if they wobble around in the seat, stop...... If they wobble, the guides are shot, and nothing besides having the guides replaced is going to fix it........ hate to see you go to all that work and it still not be fixed.
Also, when you have the valves "loose". with no springs on them, if they wobble around in the seat, stop...... If they wobble, the guides are shot, and nothing besides having the guides replaced is going to fix it........ hate to see you go to all that work and it still not be fixed.
crash-harris
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I know that, but I'll still have to put it back together. There's no way I could get the heads off here at home and let the truck sit. I'd have to wait for it to dry up enough to get the truck, tools, and equipment back into my grandparents [really nice] "barn" where I did the Carnage Molasses Corrections. Even then, There's currently an IDI for sale rather locally, pulled from a '93, with an extra IP and turbo, for about $200 less than what it would cost to rebuild the top end (not including a head mulling, valve job and valve recession). But if course, I would have no way of telling what shape is really in until it's in and running. Really wish I had the finances to rebuild an IDIT for the truck, but wouldn't really be as much of an issue if my last job hadn't demanded 12 hours of my every day to only pay me for 8. Lots of things in some state of disrepair at the moment...
1 and 4....at tdc
Turn crank 90 deg
Then next pair in fireing order sequence....meaning first one after cyl 1 and first one after cyl 4...turn 90 do it again...turn 90 and once more.....eazy peasy guys
JM7.3CW EH!
Turn crank 90 deg
Then next pair in fireing order sequence....meaning first one after cyl 1 and first one after cyl 4...turn 90 do it again...turn 90 and once more.....eazy peasy guys
JM7.3CW EH!
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
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