Ticking and Intermittent Valve Noises

[crash-harris]

Problem is that I can't take the heads off here. Same issues when I had to get the truck across county to rebuild the front and replace injectors. Even though I may end up needing to pull the heads, and have to wait awhile to get the truck into a workspace to do so, I figure these parts (minus stem seals and maybe gaskets) will be reusable/not have much mileage on them.

Everything is ordered other than the stem seals. Trying to find the difference between Felpro #SS72938 and #SS72628-1, other than having 2 more little "tools" with one of them. I used Autozones parts fiche to find the part numbers.

 

[Thewespaul]

This work would take half the time on an engine stand... just sayin.

 

[crash-harris]

I know...if I had an engine stand...and a floor to put it on...and income. Although, the other half of that time would be spend maticulously removing and reinstalling the new clip that I put on not long ago.

 

[Joseph Davis]

I have seen a person use rope on the compression stroke to hold valves in place, but it took them a month and a half working on it at night to get the job done! First thing I would do is Compression Test? I check mine and found leaking exhaust valve down 80 pounds from other cylinders. When she warms up weak cylinder goes away no Black Smoke but when I had valve covers off I could see the valve seals were detreating so I am pulling the heads ordering new parts and if needed going to rebuild motor. I never like doing the job 1/2 way because it may sound easy but that is how nightmares are created. I hope you have good luck on your project but I think it is easier to pull the heads than fishing for simple solution. I just set up planks to walk around my truck and plastic sheet for crawling on the ground. It has never failed me yet

 

[crash-harris]

I hate having to do 1/2 jobs, but the way I'd like to rebuild an IDIT would cost me about 10K particularly since I only have a very questionable N/A. Compression test will happen first regardless (tester should arrive Monday). I'll be putting the pistons at TDC to mess with the valves and I'm hopeful that the new pushrods/lifters/stem seals and stiffer springs will work as a bandaid until the ground dries up enough for me to get the truck back into the only workspace I have that I can roll a hoist on. If lifters are ok and valve guides are indeed the problem, I'll hold onto the new ones and maybe drop them and the other new parts in an IDIT, IF I can find one for a decent price that is in decent shape. When I can do that, that is.

 

[crash-harris]

New symptom today. Not entirely sure how to describe it, but I'll try and start from the beginning.

I haven't been able to get to pulling the IP/valley pan/valve covers/rockers/valve springs due to the weather. Instead I've been dealing with a strange charging issue. 200A breaker inline with the charge cable from the alternator started tripping repeatedly after attempting to do my compression test and installing the 6.0L glow plug harnesses. Issue with the compression test is that the needle would only bounce to 200psi on any cylinder and wouldn't hold pressure (bad gauge). After putting everything back together and installing previously mention GP harnesses, the breaker would trip and not allow a manual reset (like it was still too hot). I replaced the alternator and it wouldn't charge above 14V at anytime. Nothing has changed with any of my grounds, but I'll be adding one to the back of the 3G when I can. I pulled the regulator harness and cut out the crimp connections and soldered them, swapped the leads on the breaker and tightened the belts more. Might be alright now.

But here's the part that's relevant to this thread...

When I started the truck, everything seemed normal (normal cranking time, normal plume of white exhaust, normal high idle), but then there was this strange, almost stumble/pop or burp (not a backfire) and the idle smoothed out even more. Maybe it wasn't hitting on one cylinder? Didn't shake or sound like it does when loosening an injector line while running. I'm still leaning towards worn valve guides or a sticky valve, but I guess it could still be a collapsed lifter? First thought was sticky injector nozzle, but they are Russ' rebuilds and with the inner occurance of the "gulping" and one occurance of chuffing, I'm doubting it's an injector.

I'm going to have to do balljoints, tie rod ends and alignment before I can break into the top end. Driver's side is getting bad from where I got hit (and didn't have any "proof" that she messed up my balljoints and TRE's).

 

[pelky350]

@crash-harris kine seems to do the same thing the other day at but I think mine is the mechanical fuel pump going out. Everything about our motors acting up seems to be spot on. Also noted my tick came back again waiting on oil to leak to add some marvel to it. One valve spring on my exhaust side was kinda dirty inside and it's likely going to be a guide going out. Multiple people have said not to worry I've got like 100xxx miles before anything terrible could happen but until then it will drink a little oil and tick. I may pull valve cover and try to clean that spring and Valve stem off some. It wasn't not very bad but it was noticibly dirtier than any other spring.

 

[crash-harris]

I mentioned previously that everything under the driver's side valve cover was noticeably darker than the passenger side. I'm running a faucet for the lift pump and have a block off plate instead of the mech pump.

The driver's side is what really screwed me after the teen girl hit me awhile ago. It first started with one, but then 3 out of 4 injectors on that side stuck open. The injector bores were solid carbon between the wells in the head and the injector bodies. That's also the side she hit me on and I hit the ditch in 4th gear and killed it.

 

[pelky350]

So ticking is back just as it was before.. it seems to clear up if I go on the highway and "blow it out" for a minute then it's non existent. It's more happening when running around town idling everywhere. I did notice something strange though relating to my other thread with low boost. My truck doesn't be like cruising around at 2000+ in town it's very finicky feeling almost jumpy on my and the clatter is quite loud like a powrstroke almost but my timing was verified at 6' so immnot sure if anything is related here or not

 

[crash-harris]

Mine never goes away, but it has seemed like since last I timed it, that its actually advanced. That is to say, clatter has seemed to have gotten louder over the past couple of years.