Thread to ask questions for my repower??

[greg_a_morton]

yea I am getting bubbles when I crack the lines so I know its getting there. It seems like when ever you change pumps its a shot in the dark in getting the timing right. I just went strait up and down with the way the pump looks. I wish I had those timing tools to give me a idea. I have to put a clutch in a jeep tomorrow but I hope to move the ip a little to see if it tries to at least bust off. That would make my day! Suppose to get 5-8" snow again tonight aint nothing like Texas!

 

[itsacrazyasian]

well are the glow plugs firing?

you should see two little marks on the pump and engine just match them straight up for now till you get it running.

these motors need glow plugs even when its 90f out.

 

[greg_a_morton]

I did not know about those lines and the line on the new pump was nearly machined off. I did get them lined up together and had to move the pump roughly 1/8" (retarded). I have a manual glow plug controller with beru plugs. I do not know how long I need to hold down because I am afraid of burning out the plugs. I just went and held down my plugs 15 seconds with the pump strait up now and cranked over and had a loud backfire out my turbo with smoke. Where am I now do you think? It didn't crank but it did make noise!! I hope there was no either in there from earlier in the day.

 

[mabc926]

Your getting it man!

The loud noise could have been from the ether....how much did you put on?

 

[itsacrazyasian]

10 seconds should do it. when i was on push button it 10 seconds was all i needed even when it was close to freezing out. only time i glowed it longer than 10 seconds was when i was in north fla/ga with the truck and it was snowing.

try cranking the truck at wot after glowing the plugs and see what happens. no ether,

 

[greg_a_morton]

still nothing! I got me a new battery charger and left it going all night and got out there this morning and glowed the plugs and it spun over good with a slight hit but them the same. I have a very small trickle of fuel coming out the top of the return line and there is fuel bubbling at the injectors. The injection pump is set strait up with the line on the engine now also. I figure I have over 50 tries now of trying to start the engine with every few times I crack a few lines open to see some bubbles(sometimes and sometimes not). I have never had a diesel do this and usually starts after 3-4 times trying to bled it off. I have no fuel leaking from any of the return lines ether. Since I have a manual controller for the plugs is there any way to test to see if they are getting hot? other than that I am out of ideas.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

put a test light on one of the glow plugs and hit the button and see if it lights. then take the test light and clip one end to the positive term of battery and test each glow plug in the block individually (unhook it from the harness) if they light the plug is good.

 

[greg_a_morton]

By goodness she is alive!! I talked with a friend yesterday about a few things and some of what we talked about made since. I decided before I did any thing today I was going to give it one more shot and it worked. I squirted either in the turbo at least 2-3 more than I did before and hit it and she sounded like she was going to fly apart and then died. I then hit the glow plugs for 10 seconds or so and she busted right off. I will make a video of it later. I cant run her to long as My water pump leaks all the water out. I got one coming that I bought off ebay this week. The only problem I see is on the rear passenger side injector it seems to leak a little on the return. The return hose is crimped down because of the turbo heat shroud and it is cocking the plastic piece and making it leak a bit. I will redo all my return lines when I get the new viton o rings in from russ. I will probably reroute the lines to work best in my truck. If they had caps that I could buy that just had one nipple on each I would build a return log and run each line to it(just a idea right now). Any way I am just happy she sounds good with a raspy cackle under the truck with just the down pipe and all seems to be pretty well.

 

[mabc926]

That's awesome!

Just had to kick it in the ass and tell it whose boss

 

[itsacrazyasian]

i capped that back one on the passenger side and put a T inbetween the last 2 on the passenger side and routed that over to the drivers side.

 

[greg_a_morton]

thats what I was thinking about doing. I wish there was a better system for these engines(hard lines).

 

[itsacrazyasian]

the returns really aren't a problem. I'll take the return lines and caps vs needing a special wrench and possible damaged return nipples on my old gm 6.5,

 

[greg_a_morton]

well things are finally coming together on the truck. I drove the truck a little while ago and it seems to have tons more power than the 4bt did. I made a video to put on here but am having problems with photobucket uploading lately. It has a great v8 sound but with the turbo wine. I am going to go get the downpipe welded up to a 3"to4" adapter and then run a short piece of flex to hook up the stack. I did notice that it shifts very quick and a little to soft. Do I need to mess with the thing on the IP first or turn on the screw on the transmission first? Here is some new pics.

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[Agnem]

Awesome job! So do I understand that you took OUT a CUMMINS to put IN an IDI? This may be a first!

 

[itsacrazyasian]

The thing on the ip should adjust shift timing. the screw on the modulator adjusts shift firmness. The modulator will affect shift timing if its bad, usually to the effect of not shifting till high rpm.

Adjust the VRV first.