Tenacity pays off?

idiabuse

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fmic<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<Front Mount Inter Cooler.
i don't see anything at all that helps me understand mid 20's economy,but i appreciate your time.thanks.;Sweet

You have to look closely, plus I built the whole pile of garbage. Let me give you a clue, If I mention what helps me in the milage dept I get an automatic IP ban on most forums...


Javier
 

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The AMSOIL?

oh yup.it's no doubt one of those threads lol.im running that in my rear and was in my engine too,but i went back to mobil 1 40w the amsoil 30w was ok,but the engine drank it and i didn't see anything worth writing home about for economy there either.
there are no magic lubricants that make diesel trucks push upper 20's boys.save your $.
 

79jasper

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I would run it (full synthetic regardless of brand) for longer OCI's. With a bypass filter.
And since I'm heui, I bet I could benefit from it.
 

idiabuse

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oh yup.it's no doubt one of those threads lol.im running that in my rear and was in my engine too,but i went back to mobil 1 40w the amsoil 30w was ok,but the engine drank it and i didn't see anything worth writing home about for economy there either.
there are no magic lubricants that make diesel trucks push upper 20's boys.save your $.
I always find it takes time for things to work themselves out. From what I see you don't have the patience to use the oil for the drain interval it is made to handle.
I bought my truck in 1999, I started with AMSOIL in my truck around 2003 I did not notice an immediate improvement either.
Over time I started noticing improvement from 12mpg with Rotella changed every 2000 miles to AMSOIL never changed for 5 years and up to 28mpg best. I worked my way up to 20mpg city and 22/25 hwy with a best of 28mpg and at the best, the oil had 40,000 miles on one oil change, Have the oil sample to prove it.

Engines are just like women they need time to settle and get used to the what's in the fridge.

My AMSOIL today is working just like it did 6 years ago, maybe even better because I am using the SAE10W30 instead of the top dawg 5W30 heavy duty diesel oil. It is a bit cheaper and I am not afraid to use any AMSOIL in my truck.

With my newer engine this time around I tried to go past 20,000 or so miles but when I took a Oil Sample the sample was not as good as I though due to the waste oil I had been using, so I changed it at around 25,000 miles and now have a fresh batch in, still worth the $120 or so for oil that last as long as it does, cant say that for DELO cause who will use it that long? LOL!



Javier
 

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Javier - are you running anything special in your C6? Mine has a relatively recent rebuild and TC, yet it seems like my slippage is a greater % than what it should be. I'm always curious if a certain ATF fluid works better than others for our application or if it is all the same.
 

jhnlennon

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cant say that for DELO cause who will use it that long? LOL!



Javier
Lots of people do actually, simple search on BITOG can verify that. Not unheard of to see 15-20k drain intervals on the stuff with bypass filtration, even more if your using the NON le version. Delo is a proven performer, especially when you factor in price...
 

idiabuse

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Lots of people do actually, simple search on BITOG can verify that. Not unheard of to see 15-20k drain intervals on the stuff with bypass filtration, even more if your using the NON le version. Delo is a proven performer, especially when you factor in price...

Well, I don't think Delo will last 40,000+++ miles in trucks like ours, using Wal-Mart sold oil/air filters.
Now I will say it can be done up to a point, because Delo is a quality lubricant.
Like you mentioned filtration is key.
Anyone here can extend the oil drain interval using any Diesel rated oil they want if they just purchase the best filters on the shelf at NAPA, for a start, instead of shorter drain intervals with regular low grade media filters.

When spending money to keep your truck going it makes no sense to know the price of everything and miss the value of anything.
Not a lot of people would spend $25 on a oil filter which has more value than the cheaper replacement filter.

Now BITOG has some value, some. If you want the truth from BITOG about long drain intervals they are limited on the subject.
I cant find any value at the site anymore. If you look real hard for long drain interval threads you will notice they don't exist there.
Getting that type info from BITOG is like looking for American Liberty History From a North Korean website, You will get something, but the value is worthless...


Javier
 

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I find BITOG has all the info I need. Im not a lubrication engineer and dont wish to be. I cruise the sight on occassion to see whats new on the table and to re-affirm what Ive found to be mostly true; running premium oil is a waste of money and mostly just a marketing scheme...
 

idiabuse

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I find BITOG has all the info I need. Im not a lubrication engineer and dont wish to be. I cruise the sight on occassion to see whats new on the table and to re-affirm what Ive found to be mostly true; running premium oil is a waste of money and mostly just a marketing scheme...

You didn't learn anything then. I work in the engine performance field everyday past 25 years. I see what conventional oils can and cant do. Even with constant oil changes and careful lube selection, those who choose to run engines hard always find out they realize the threshold of the lubricant is less than what they expected.
The look on their faces when they ask "well why did the rod spin a bearing I had it full of oil?" It is priceless when the engine builder ask "well what brand and weight oil were you using?" They always are hesitant to say.

Happens everyday, I pulled two engines apart today both had plenty abuse probably from running with no oil.

I have not had to buy drums of oil to keep my vehicles running in the past 14 years using a Premium Oil
Which has cost me less in 14 years, by probably saving close to $10,000, because I use my Premium oils longer than most people own cars.

The only thing you can learn from BITOG is how to repeat what you read...

Javier
 
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idiabuse

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Javier - are you running anything special in your C6? Mine has a relatively recent rebuild and TC, yet it seems like my slippage is a greater % than what it should be. I'm always curious if a certain ATF fluid works better than others for our application or if it is all the same.
I rebuilt my C-6 myself and added all kinds of goodies in the unit, A good list of parts used for an all out drag car, everything needed for ultimate clutch holding ability.
It also has all Torrington needle bearings instead of thrust washers and of course a low 1st gear ratio.
The torque converter is a extra low stall unit that was made for Ford Motorsport when they used to sell those units, Now Obsolete.
I would like a newer version of a Heavy duty low stall that is made like the drag car units but for low stall, billet front cover and all three bearings inside the unit with no fibre washer to fail.

Works better than the rest of my truck does...



Javier
 

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I rebuilt my C-6 myself and added all kinds of goodies in the unit, A good list of parts used for an all out drag car, everything needed for ultimate clutch holding ability.

Works better than the rest of my truck does...
Javier
Cool. Are you just running standard Dex/Merc for fluid or something else?
 

jhnlennon

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You didn't learn anything then. I work in the engine performance field everyday past 25 years. I see what conventional oils can and cant do. Even with constant oil changes and careful lube selection, those who choose to run engines hard always find out they realize the threshold of the lubricant is less than what they expected.
The look on their faces when they ask "well why did the rod spin a bearing I had it full of oil?" It is priceless when the engine builder ask "well what brand and weight oil were you using?" They always are hesitant to say.

Happens everyday, I pulled two engines apart today both had plenty abuse probably from running with no oil.

I have not had to buy drums of oil to keep my vehicles running in the past 14 years using a Premium Oil
Which has cost me less in 14 years, by probably saving close to $10,000, because I use my Premium oils longer than most people own cars.

The only thing you can learn from BITOG is how to repeat what you read...

Javier

Ive been in and out of the automotive repair and performance industry myself since the time I could walk, and now have graduated into the world of industrial maintainence. I too, know a thing or too about maintaining an engine or machinery for longevity.

First off, a purpose built performance orientated engine is an EXTREME case scenario and not the norm. You cant use that as a basis for determining whats cost effective for the other 95% of real world scenarios. Your comparing apples to oranges. That and Ive personally seen more than my fair share of thrown rods in dirt track motors and guess what kind of oil they were filled with :rolleyes:

Secondly, your completely negating the fact that modern day oils have made leaps and bounds in technology in the past decade alone. In order to meet the ILSAC GF-5 standard pretty much requires, at least, a percentage of synthetic base stock, a group 3 base, or a very comprehensive add pack. This is the real reason why the price of oil has nearly doubled in the past 5 years or so. Companines just cant meet the specs with cheap grade base stocks any longer. Gone are the days of 3k OCI's(unless there are special situtions that require it, and even your coveted syn would suffer there also) and even a cheap no name oil can benefit from a longer drain interval.

On a third note, I actually sat down and did a cost anaylsis on maintainence costs of a fleet of 6 vehicles over the course of 200k miles per vehicle with conventional vs. synthetic and found that the savings would be minimal and would have to run the syn oil way longer than I felt comfortable doing. There are too many variables in the mix to trust running that extreme of a OCI, mainly having to rely on employees to check oil levels on a regular basis. Forget to add makeup oil just one time, and the consequences would take any savings and throw them completely out the window.

Unfortunately I cant live my life with a "race shop atittude", I have to live in the real world. The world where COST is everything and is the basis for the populations decisions...
 
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