"Tank" my 91 Crew Cab Dually

[The_Josh_Bear]

Same thoughts here... I have the same brand of hitch though mine fits to the frame a bit differently. I had to replace the tank a while back and pissed myself off having to drop the hitch also. Thankfully it's just 6 bolts but it's just the weight and angle and everything is covered in diesel and road grime from the leak I had, hence the tank replacement.
And I'm totally with you on the part about drilling out the holes and chips coming down all over you...haha did that years ago myself. Of course I didn't know about quality drill bits at the time and burned through about 5 cheap-o bits and a couple step bits.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

And I'm totally with you on the part about drilling out the holes and chips coming down all over you...haha did that years ago myself

I don't know about you guys sometimes. The easiest hitch install that I did, I did it at work about 20 years ago. The boss had a 1/2" air powered drill. I held the hitch in place with vise grips, stuck a 1/2" drill bit in the drill, and used a floor jack to hold the bit against the frame. Then I just raised the jack slowly, while running the drill, until the drill bogged down. When the drill picked up speed again, I'd raise the jack a little bit more. No chips fell on me and there wasn't much effort used either.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

While I like your thinking, I didn't have a drill that stout. All my tools are Ryobi or impact drivers and I'm not subjecting those little green guys to a floor jack, lol! That's where a mag drill comes in! (But I don't have that either)

 

[chillman88]

Quote that and bookmark it. Those aren't that fun to install with no hitch there.

We will see. I think I'm going to put the wiring harness in next and then deal with the tank after that's in place.

Did you pull the bed off when you did yours?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Did you pull the bed off when you did yours?

No and I had already removed the receiver hitch when I bought the drop bumper from Wes. Now that I think about it, I'm probably wrong in your case. Since you don't have a bed (or body) on your frame, the tank should drop in from the top without any issues. I keep thinking about a whole truck, not just a frame.

 

[Old Goat]

It should. I have the same hitch on the other truck and have dropped the tank a few times. Only difference is this one will be the bigger 38gal tank going in.

The 38 gallon is 7" deeper. I installed one on my 86. and it went right in from below. Just need to tip it a bit, but went right in.
I had the bed off, but didn`t think coming in from the top side. I might have been more concerned of getting the 2 lower straps on to hold it up.
I also probably have a different Hitch, no problems there.

I do remember the new longer Bolts were too short and had to run to the HDW Store. Think I used some washers with the new pipe spacers.

Nice having the bigger tank, can go 600 miles, (depending on your MPG) I usually fill around 400 miles or so, really not going to push the 600 though.
I have 3:55 gears, looks like you have 4:10.

Great job on your rebuild project.

Are you going to do the fast fill mod?


Goat

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

The 38 gallon is 7" deeper. I installed one on my 86. and it went right in from below. Just need to tip it a bit, but went right in.
I had the bed off, but didn`t think coming in from the top side. I might have been more concerned of getting the 2 lower straps on to hold it up.
I also probably have a different Hitch, no problems there.

I do remember the new longer Bolts were too short and had to run to the HDW Store. Think I used some washers with the new pipe spacers.

Nice having the bigger tank, can go 600 miles, (depending on your MPG) I usually fill around 400 miles or so, really not going to push the 600 though.
I have 3:55 gears, looks like you have 4:10.

Great job on your rebuild project.

Are you going to do the fast fill mod?


Goat

Same here, bolts were too short. DON'T FORGET THE BLUE THREADLOCKER! I've had *two* straps come lose on me over the years, each time because I'd forgotten the threadlocker. Doh.

 

[chillman88]

Are you going to do the fast fill mod?

Kinda. If you look closely at the first picture at this link you can see there is a NPT bung welded in next to the filler neck hole. I'd have to double check but it's either 3/4" or 1". I plan to run it to the filler neck just like the newer trucks are set up.

"Tank" my 91 Crew Cab Dually

I did Email a supplier years ago that listed a stainless steel unit but it wasn't in stock> I don't remember who it was. I wasn't in the mood to spend money either, so it's not like I could make a business case for them to stock up on bling like that. I would love to install a stainless sender...

www.oilburners.net

 

[chillman88]

Same here, bolts were too short. DON'T FORGET THE BLUE THREADLOCKER! I've had *two* straps come lose on me over the years, each time because I'd forgotten the threadlocker. Doh.

Like everything else I do on this project I have a plan to unnecessarily overcomplicate the mounting system for the taller tank. I'll share that when I get it done

 

[Old Goat]

Kinda. If you look closely at the first picture at this link you can see there is a NPT bung welded in next to the filler neck hole. I'd have to double check but it's either 3/4" or 1". I plan to run it to the filler neck just like the newer trucks are set up.

"Tank" my 91 Crew Cab Dually

I did Email a supplier years ago that listed a stainless steel unit but it wasn't in stock> I don't remember who it was. I wasn't in the mood to spend money either, so it's not like I could make a business case for them to stock up on bling like that. I would love to install a stainless sender...

www.oilburners.net

Strange your F26E tank has the bung next to the filler neck. Mine didn`t have it, maybe yours is a different brand?

I ran my vent from where the roll over valve is. Removed it and screwed in a 3/4" plastic right angle with a Barb on the other end.
I did use 3/4" hose from there up to the top of the Filler Tube. Drilled a hole in the side of the tube with another right angle screwed into the hole. Did have to slowly open the hole with a rasp bit on my drill to open up the hole, just to where the threads would grab and screw in, Then JB Weld it.

If I did it again, would probably run 1/2" Hose.
Buy your hose from a hydraulic shop, compatible with Diesel, not Heater Hose.
With this mod, it fills right now. I usually run it to the top of the fill tube, get a few more gallons in it.

Later on "Dumaz" here discovered, OH, I need a vent for the tank. As I use fuel air need to come into the tank...DUH.
My fix was to drill another hole at the top of the filler tube and install a brass fitting (Thread/Barb) with a 3/8" piece of hose with a Differential vent fitting in the end. Ran it up along side the bucket the fill tube connect to. Use a piece of flat bar, 1" x 1/8" maybe 7" long, and bolted it to the side of the bucket with 1/4" bolts and 2 rubber hose clamps.. works great.

Gardner Bender 3/4 in. D Steel Cable Clamp 2 pk - Ace Hardware

Secures wire and cable in industrial, auto/marine and where vibrations may occur. Built-in screw hole for mounting to multiple surfaces.Find the INSUL CLAMPS RUBR3/4CD2 at Ace.

www.acehardware.com

Note Bucket. When you open the fill door, the recessed part I call the bucket. Discovered my 86 is plastic and comes out. Just bought a 87 4x4 and it is a metal piece welded in.
May be a bit more difficult.
With the 86 the fill door screwed back in, it secures the Bucket.

Hope my long winded thesis is clear as mud...

Goat

 

[Old Goat]

Deleted this....

 

[david85]

As the weather has allowed I've sprayed some more of the frame down. Today I finished installing the new hitch. I even decided to bevel the square washers so they'd fit flat along the inside of the frame instead of being angled. Hit them with cold galv for good measure.

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I hit any spots that were scuffed and all the lower edges with more of the cosmoline. I made sure NOT to coat the bottom lip if the frame rail before putting the hitch on so as not to mess with the friction between the parts. After the locktite has had time to cure I'll spray everything else with the cosmoline nice and heavy.

Anyone know for sure what thread this hole in the rear of the frame is supposed to be? I'm kinda guessing either 9/16 or 5/8 but I'm not sure. The threads are full of zinc now so I have to figure out what size tap to run through it.

You must be registered for see images attach

Whatever it is, i think it’s metric. All the body bolts are metric, so it would make sense to have the frame metric. The wheel pattern and lugs are still imperial, but even the shackle bolts are metric.

If I were to hazard a guess, I would say m16x2 but don’t quote me on that.

 

[chillman88]

Strange your F26E tank has the bung next to the filler neck. Mine didn`t have it, maybe yours is a different brand?

Nope I just had that added in since I had a clean tank and was going to paint it anyway.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Strange your F26E tank has the bung next to the filler neck. Mine didn`t have it, maybe yours is a different brand?

I ran my vent from where the roll over valve is. Removed it and screwed in a 3/4" plastic right angle with a Barb on the other end.
I did use 3/4" hose from there up to the top of the Filler Tube. Drilled a hole in the side of the tube with another right angle screwed into the hole. Did have to slowly open the hole with a rasp bit on my drill to open up the hole, just to where the threads would grab and screw in, Then JB Weld it.

If I did it again, would probably run 1/2" Hose.
Buy your hose from a hydraulic shop, compatible with Diesel, not Heater Hose.
With this mod, it fills right now. I usually run it to the top of the fill tube, get a few more gallons in it.

Later on "Dumaz" here discovered, OH, I need a vent for the tank. As I use fuel air need to come into the tank...DUH.
My fix was to drill another hole at the top of the filler tube and install a brass fitting (Thread/Barb) with a 3/8" piece of hose with a Differential vent fitting in the end. Ran it up along side the bucket the fill tube connect to. Use a piece of flat bar, 1" x 1/8" maybe 7" long, and bolted it to the side of the bucket with 1/4" bolts and 2 rubber hose clamps.. works great.

Gardner Bender 3/4 in. D Steel Cable Clamp 2 pk - Ace Hardware

Secures wire and cable in industrial, auto/marine and where vibrations may occur. Built-in screw hole for mounting to multiple surfaces.Find the INSUL CLAMPS RUBR3/4CD2 at Ace.

www.acehardware.com

Note Bucket. When you open the fill door, the recessed part I call the bucket. Discovered my 86 is plastic and comes out. Just bought a 87 4x4 and it is a metal piece welded in.
May be a bit more difficult.
With the 86 the fill door screwed back in, it secures the Bucket.

Hope my long winded thesis is clear as mud...

Goat

Thank you sir! I've read a bunch of fast fill mod write-ups but never remembered what they did for the vent after using the roll-over valve. Will a differential vent keep the fuel from spilling out in a roll-over? Now that I know what it's called, I've seen them many times but don't know exactly how they work.

I'll do this mod just to be able to use ANY diesel pump at full send... I can barely squeak out the lowest setting at most of my normal fill stations. Whatever moron at Ford that came up with the fill system on the trucks should get some kind of significant beating. How dumb can you get and still breathe?!?

 

[Old Goat]

You will loose the Roll Over Valve with this mod.
There is a BB/Marble that closes off the vent tube in a roll over.
The Diff vent and even the plastic vent piece in the end of the small
hose off the Roll Over Valve will not keep fuel from leaking out of the
hose in a roll over event.
Just keep the greasy side down.


Goat