steering coloum u joints?

7.3 man

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I looked all over the net and free bay, and cant find the u joints to replace mine on my steering coloum, to take the play out of the steering wheel? Or is this the u joints fault? The only thing I could find is to send the coloum in and get it rebuilt.
 

riotwarrior

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Three parts to the shafts...

Ujoint

Rag joint

Sliding shaft with flat metal spring and plastic bushing inside.

Any single point can fail or a combination.

There are no replacement parts except rag joints that I know of.

Borgeson or flaming river make HI end replacement $haft$ that equate to $pendy! but well worth it and are fully rebuildable.


JM2CW

Al
 

franklin2

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You need to get someone in the truck to very lightly wiggle the wheel while you watch the shaft as it goes into the steering box. It might be the double D part of the column. That's what happened to me. I had to get the steering box replaced and they just slide it out of the double d part of the shaft, and they lost the bushing and spring inside, and I had a lot of slop. I was away from home at the time, and when I found out what happened, I took a short piece of brakeline I had laying in the truck, flattened one end with a hammer, and drove it up in the double d part to take the slop out. I wrapped electrical tape around it for good measure so it would not fall out. Fixed it right up and sorry to say, it's still like that several years later.
 

Desertrig

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So I have enough slop in the double d (ford calls it a steering shaft lower-intermediate 3b676 $360) that the truck will shake violently side to side at 40ish when braking sometimes or during a blowout (rod ends don't look great, but I can barely find any play in the rack itself) . As much I'm willing to stick some metal in it and tape it off, is there maybe a better keeper idea out there versus tape - hose clamp and intertube? It's too much money for a spring and plastic bushing, and I'd have to figure out how to remove the shaft from the gearbox :rolleyes:.....
 

warhog

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Play in the steering wheel itself, or play in steering the truck? There's a difference.

And if your wheel is shaking when braking, you need brakes.
 

riotwarrior

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So I have enough slop in the double d (ford calls it a steering shaft lower-intermediate 3b676 $360) that the truck will shake violently side to side at 40ish when braking sometimes or during a blowout (rod ends don't look great, but I can barely find any play in the rack itself) . As much I'm willing to stick some metal in it and tape it off, is there maybe a better keeper idea out there versus tape - hose clamp and intertube? It's too much money for a spring and plastic bushing, and I'd have to figure out how to remove the shaft from the gearbox :rolleyes:.....

Undo the bolt that holds it to the steering box, then pry it off carefully, it just slided back towards cab. REAL easy!
 

Desertrig

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When the trucks doing the ants in its pants dance, the steering wheel is steady and still steers the truck. It's a solid front axle (single I beam?), but beyond grease busted tie boots there was a transverse sway member axle to the engine cradle missing some rubber. The steering wheel play is excessive, probably 15 or 20 degrees in either direction. Huh just went and looked BEHIND (sneaky engineers) the front axle and one of bushings on the crazy loopy L shaped sway bar has had it's metal keeper break off the front axle. A dealer only part my favorite... Still thanks for the lead on "adjusting" the double d:sly
 

tractorman86

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that trackbar bushing will give you 9 kinds of hell when it is bad, that will be a good bit of your slop/wobble in the front end
 

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