Stalling truck

[beretzs]

Alright guys, I have a mystery for you. I went and got my haircut tonight and drove the truck, finally getting to drive the old girl a little more since diesel has came down to the same price as regular unleaded. Well, the truck has been running and starting fine, but tonight when I came back out to get into the truck, it started then stalled, well, I figured maybe it was out of fuel for that tank. I switched and then figured it may have air in the system, so I pulled one of the rubber caps off of the injector return line cap. it ran fine with the cap off, it was squirting fuel everywhere, but it was running fine, as soon as I put the cap back on (figuring all the air was out of it) and the truck quit immediately, I mean flat out quit, didn't hesitate or studder, just flat out quit, if I took the cap off it would start back up and run fine. But with that return line off, it squirts out a pretty solid stream of fuel. So, whadda you guys think, blocked return line (it has been parked for about 6 months). It has been running fine for the last two days. Any ideas, I am lost on this one, it is getting fuel, air, there are no leaks (well when the plug is in place).. What would make the truck flat out quit like that? It is just like I put a rag over the intake and there is no air.. I am stumped.. Scotty

 

[The Warden]

Sounds like the return line's somehow blocked to me. This is exactly what my truck did when the return line check valve at the top of the injector pump got clogged up.

The bad news is that my check valve was clogged up with parts of the nylon gear in the governor set, so I wound up needing to change out the injector pump. However, when this happened to me, the truck would gradually start running worse and worse (blocking the return line affects the pump timing) until she wouldn't run at all. My guess is that the return line was slowly getting more and more clogged until the truck just plain wouldn't run. So, if this happened suddenly, your pump may be okay...possibly a kinked hose?

Just some random thoughts while procrastinating a term paper Good luck!!

 

[soulpatchfr]

um, forgive me guys... i saw it 'over there' first & replied. go ahead & flame me, but at least i cut & pasted it:

FRANK: did you just uncap that one injector? maybe that's the culprit? try a few more... i want to say bad fuel or a FF change, but it doesn't add up...

SCOTTY: I don't think it is bad fuel, the truck runs really good when it is uncapped and allowed to flow, but immediately shuts down when the little rubber cap is replaced.. Could be a fule filter, but it doesn't seem likey.. Weird, this is killing me. Figures, I need to actually use the truck tomorrow and now it is paying me back.

 

[beretzs]

Damn, it had better NOT be a bad IP or even an injector.. I will set my truck on fire and cook some elk meat over the smoldering grille.. I am not even in the least little bit in the kind mood/state of mind to start buying IP's and such.. It had better be a cheap fix.. Scotty

 

[soulpatchfr]

i have my OE inj's sitting here in a box... i R&R'd them @ 220k miles just because i figured it was time.
if you determine (or even THINK) you have a bad one, let me know.

i know i sent at least 2 to TDS or OB members when they were having problems & they worked for them... you're more than welcome to a couple if you want them - just send me an address & they're in the mail.

 

[beretzs]

Sweet, thanks a million, hopefully it is not an injector though. I will check it out tomorrow and see what the deal is. I will even put a new fuel filter on and see if that helps. Scotty

 

[towcat]

I seriously doubt that its an injector pump since ths product is a rebuild from Ken. you are saying that it is running when a return is unplugged......
suggestion.
pull the return feed from the motor to where it goes in to your feul switching valve on the frame. put a bucket under it and fire the truck up. If it stays running, you have a bad feul switching valve. Been there, panicked over it, figured out what was wrong, and figured a good diagnosis pattern.
scotty-
if you don't mind running a used FSV, send me an addy and pay for ship. I can send one to you.

 

[beretzs]

You Rock Towcat.. I will try that tomorrow and see what happens. What I am pulling off is the little rubber cap that goes over the injector return line T. If that is allowed to be open, it runs perfect, but fuel squirts out, I drove it home open like that for 5 miles or so. I had fuel everywhere, but I had no choice and decided to take the chance in order to get the truck home. Hopefully it is that FSV. So all I should do is unhook the FSV return line deal and if the truck still runs, it is the switch huh.. Well, hopefully that is the problem. Truck is getting cranky ever since I tried to sell it. Worse than a woman in that respect. Scotty

 

[beretzs]

I seriously doubt that its an injector pump since ths product is a rebuild from Ken. you are saying that it is running when a return is unplugged......
suggestion.
pull the return feed from the motor to where it goes in to your feul switching valve on the frame. put a bucket under it and fire the truck up. If it stays running, you have a bad feul switching valve. Been there, panicked over it, figured out what was wrong, and figured a good diagnosis pattern.
scotty-
if you don't mind running a used FSV, send me an addy and pay for ship. I can send one to you.

Towcat, just did your diagnosis and bam, it started and ran just fine, fuel of course coming out of the unhooked return line, but it ran nonetheless, and just to be sure I hooked it back up and started it again (actually hoping it would magically fix itself) but it ran for about 3 seconds and died. Same as before. So right now I am looking for an address, paypal, pony express, western union to send you some loot for a FSV.

My address is

Scott Beretz
315B Smith Lane
San Clemente Ca 92672

Also, what a pain to get to that valve, I have those front fuel tank skid plate, electric fuel pump, and propane tank all right there.. Shouldn't be too bad, I will just drop that skid plate and unbolt the two bolts holding it on and I should be able to finagle the FSV off.. Thanks a million for your help. It would have had me stumped. I was ready to lower my price to 5000.00 to get rid of the truck and all it's little headaches.. You saved it.. For today that is. Scotty

 

[towcat]

You've done time in the sandbox. Thank you. part's yours. just pay for ship btw....just for S&G call the stealership and ask how much for a new one

 

[The Warden]

Good to hear it was something simple and cheap! I forgot about the possibility of the fuel selector valve sticking like that, which is ironic since I replaced mine when I was trying to troubleshoot the same problem...

 

[John Haggerty]

FSV = ?

 

[JPR]

fuel switching valve - the critter that swaps between tanks

 

[beretzs]

I did pull the fuse and it was blown, but even after replacing the fuse it still does not work, may have blown the new fuse too.. Just figured I would try it before I get knee deep in replacing stuff. Scotty

 

[apextrans]

Also, what a pain to get to that valve, I have those front fuel tank skid plate, electric fuel pump, and propane tank all right there.. Shouldn't be too bad, I will just drop that skid plate and unbolt the two bolts holding it on and I should be able to finagle the FSV off.. Thanks a million for your help. It would have had me stumped. I was ready to lower my price to 5000.00 to get rid of the truck and all it's little headaches.. You saved it.. For today that is. Scotty

I swear our trucks are living parallel lives. Although my problem isn't as pronounced yet. Just won't run off the rear tank. Anymore FSV's for sale Towcat? By the way, 175.85 from the Stealership around here & it's NON RETURNABLE no matter what.