slave cylinder question ???
- Thread starter jw674
- Start date
Most of them have bleeders, but some of the bleeders are just set screws that sit flush in the slave cylinder.
From what I have been reading, and my own experience, the bleeder on the slave is not very important. It will get you started quickly as far as the bleeding process, but it will not bleed all the air out, because it's down low in the system.
What has worked for me and and I see it over and over again in the posts on the subject, pumping the clutch pedal till you can barely get it into gear, and the driving it down the road will let the air finally come out by itself via the clutch master cylinder.
From what I have been reading, and my own experience, the bleeder on the slave is not very important. It will get you started quickly as far as the bleeding process, but it will not bleed all the air out, because it's down low in the system.
What has worked for me and and I see it over and over again in the posts on the subject, pumping the clutch pedal till you can barely get it into gear, and the driving it down the road will let the air finally come out by itself via the clutch master cylinder.
MIDNIGHT RIDER
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I see people go into all sorts of fits and coniptions trying to bleed air out of clutch cylinders.
Years ago, I quit pumping and cussing, which I don't think helped get the air out at all.
What I now do is install whichever end needs replacing, be it the master or the slave, or both; fill it with fluid, DO NOT PUMP ANYTHING, walk away for about twelve hours, and like magic, it's bled itself.
Top off the fluid, put the cap on, and drive away.
I don't claim it will work for everyone, but it works for me.
Years ago, I quit pumping and cussing, which I don't think helped get the air out at all.
What I now do is install whichever end needs replacing, be it the master or the slave, or both; fill it with fluid, DO NOT PUMP ANYTHING, walk away for about twelve hours, and like magic, it's bled itself.
Top off the fluid, put the cap on, and drive away.
I don't claim it will work for everyone, but it works for me.
Sycostang67
Scooty Puff Junior
I tried pumping for awhile, but towcats method of pushing on the clutch fork had me going in no time. I believe it went like this.
Open bleeder screw
push clutch fork toward the front of the truck and hold it
close bleeder
release fork.
Just keep doing that until you longer have air coming out. Keep an eye on your fluid though, it ran out quicker than I expected and I almost had to start over twice.
Open bleeder screw
push clutch fork toward the front of the truck and hold it
close bleeder
release fork.
Just keep doing that until you longer have air coming out. Keep an eye on your fluid though, it ran out quicker than I expected and I almost had to start over twice.
help
I got the slave cylinder but cant get it on,when the old slave cylinder fell off it broke the plastic line.so now im trying to push the fiting that goes in slave cylinder in plastic hose,it just wont go can i buy something rubber i can slide over or a quick connect fitting.when i mount the slave cylinder to the transmision to clip it in it hits off that plate that moves forward comeing out of the transmision.but i cant get it to move backwards so everything can clear..thanks
I got the slave cylinder but cant get it on,when the old slave cylinder fell off it broke the plastic line.so now im trying to push the fiting that goes in slave cylinder in plastic hose,it just wont go can i buy something rubber i can slide over or a quick connect fitting.when i mount the slave cylinder to the transmision to clip it in it hits off that plate that moves forward comeing out of the transmision.but i cant get it to move backwards so everything can clear..thanks
Sycostang67
Scooty Puff Junior
It's kind of a pain, but the rod coming out of the slave will compress more to let you slip it in there. It's just a matter of trying to keep the slave lined up to slide in the bracket while also using enough force to push the rod in.
If the hose is broken, I think you may have to get a new one. I just got a new hose from Schucks/O'reilly's for about $60, all metal with a stainless braided hose on the end.
If the hose is broken, I think you may have to get a new one. I just got a new hose from Schucks/O'reilly's for about $60, all metal with a stainless braided hose on the end.
I tried that method, but it just seemed to introduce more air than it got rid of, as well as bathing me in fluid from up above. I've got it to the pint where I can shift, but I have to start it in gear. I'm hoping driving it will clear it out.
Sycostang67
Scooty Puff Junior
After I did that, the pedal had pressure but still felt like it traveled a bit far before engaging. I took a trip around the block it works perfectly.
After I did that, the pedal had pressure but still felt like it traveled a bit far before engaging. I took a trip around the block it works perfectly.
The only thing I can figure is the shaking of the engine and moving around going down the road helps the air bubbles migrate up the hose to the master cylinder.
I had a terrible time with this part. I had the plastic cap, but the legs were cut. I was able to wrap small pieces of wire around the broken legs, and push the slave rod in and then wrap the wires around the slave to hold it. This still wasn't enough to let it go in, so what I ended up doing was getting a bolt and one of those long coupler nuts for all-thread rod. I cut the coupler nut till it and the bolt barely fit between the arm and the bellhousing, and then I started unscrewing the bolt to jack the arm out enough to slip the slave on. I finally got it.
Well i got it on 3 hours latter.when the slave cylinder blew the fork got all screwd up it wasint working the throughout bearing what a nightnare.now its like i have new clutch had to start it up in gear and hold foot on brake truck wants to take off.shifting very hard.i will see how it is in the morning
hahn_rossman
Hahn Rossman
This instruction is almost right:
push clutch fork toward the front of the truck and hold it
Open bleeder screw
close bleeder
release fork.
repeat a couple of times until only fluid comes out, without air.
I find a big screwdriver works pretty good for prying the clutch fork against the slave cylinder.
Done properly it's a quick, relatively painless procedure.
What I find really works is to:
push clutch fork toward the front of the truck and hold it
Open bleeder screw
close bleeder
release fork.
repeat a couple of times until only fluid comes out, without air.
I find a big screwdriver works pretty good for prying the clutch fork against the slave cylinder.
Done properly it's a quick, relatively painless procedure.
jwalterus
Made in America
I have always done it that way, works well for me
as far as the easiest and simplest way.....
1) hook tow rope to front of truck
2) hook other end to towing truck
3) tow to dealership
4) hand over credit card
5) bend over and grab your ankles
