singing the E4OD blues

Dave 001

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My E4OD is mechanically sound but the programming flat out sucks. Is the Baumannator TCS the best way to go to make this thing behave like a proper transmission?

FYI....all the sensors are functioning and adjusted correctly. There are no codes.

Thanks.
 

LCAM-01XA

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What/where/how is the problem? All I'm unhappy about w/ mine is that she wants to lock the converter almost immediately upon shifting into 3rd at speeds as low as 25mph sometimes, and that it loves to "freewheel" when I let off the throttle (no engine braking). For both of which I'm thinking I may have a cheap & simple fix in the works...
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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What/where/how is the problem? All I'm unhappy about w/ mine is that she wants to lock the converter almost immediately upon shifting into 3rd at speeds as low as 25mph sometimes,that ****** me off as well. then does yours not want to down shift unless you mash it to the floor? and that it loves to "freewheel" when I let off the throttle (no engine braking that is normal when you don't have O/D locked out, lock out O/D and give it a try. lately i have been "playing" with mine. slows down pretty quick. For both of which I'm thinking I may have a cheap & simple fix in the works...

..........................
 

LCAM-01XA

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that ****** me off as well. then does yours not want to down shift unless you mash it to the floor?
Downshifts just fine, about half-throttle usually. TPS at 1.2 on 700 low idle, normal upshift at light throttle around 2000 unless I let off early (which I do all the time). Bit high, but since I fixed TFT reading at 175 or so she's been a bit firmer on the upshiffs (higher line pressure than compared to one based on my actual temperature of under 150 at converter discharge lone), so I should be able to dial the TPS back down a bit to get somewhat lower part-throttle upshifts while still maintaining acceptable line pressure. Wanna wire up a line pressure gauge first tho, the hardest part of which actually is deciding where in the world to put it...
that is normal when you don't have O/D locked out, lock out O/D and give it a try. lately i have been "playing" with mine. slows down pretty quick
I know it's normal, good for mileage too, but I'm not gonna revv the heck outta it just so I can hold speed going down a mild grade at interstate speed. Assuming it actually kept the converter locked in manual 3rd (OD cancel) to begin with, which mine does not. You do have the most advanced PCM for an IDI tho, whereas I got the 2nd dumbest.
 

HiHorse

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I have installed a couple of Opti-shift controlers now and would always recommend them. It is a very small learning curve for the programing, but well worth it.
 

icanfixall

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If the E4OD trans is driven with the od canceled out it will stay locked up better in the torque converter. But as we let off the throttle peddle the trans will free wheel all the time. A slight pressure on the peddle will keep it locked up longer too. Now when the brake peddle is pushed enough for the brake lite to come on that too unlocks the torque converter. Next drive when you doing say 35 to 45 mph touch the brakes but keep the throttle the same place. See the rpm raise up about 200 rpm. Doing that at 65 mph will show the same thing. Noe get up to say 45 or 50. Let off the throttle and watch the rpm drop. Now ever so slightly add throttle till the rpm catches up anagin. Now you have a little better understanding how the E4OD works. If the brake peddle didn't unlock the torque converter the engine will stall when it comes to a complete stop.
 

OLDBULL8

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Three questions.
How did you check the EEC-IV for codes?
Did you hold the throttle to the floor when checking for codes?
Was the transmission ever rebuilt?
 

trackspeeder

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My E4OD is mechanically sound but the programming flat out sucks. Is the Baumannator TCS the best way to go to make this thing behave like a proper transmission?

FYI....all the sensors are functioning and adjusted correctly. There are no codes.

Thanks.

Another option is PCS. www.powertraincontrolsolutions.com

If you go with Baumann or PCS, you will never want to drive a stock TCM controlled E4OD ever again. :D
 

trackspeeder

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If the E4OD trans is driven with the od canceled out it will stay locked up better in the torque converter. But as we let off the throttle peddle the trans will free wheel all the time. A slight pressure on the peddle will keep it locked up longer too. Now when the brake peddle is pushed enough for the brake lite to come on that too unlocks the torque converter. Next drive when you doing say 35 to 45 mph touch the brakes but keep the throttle the same place. See the rpm raise up about 200 rpm. Doing that at 65 mph will show the same thing. Noe get up to say 45 or 50. Let off the throttle and watch the rpm drop. Now ever so slightly add throttle till the rpm catches up anagin. Now you have a little better understanding how the E4OD works. If the brake peddle didn't unlock the torque converter the engine will stall when it comes to a complete stop.


With OD cancelled there should be no freewheeling of the tranny. OD OFF the coast clutch is applied to give you engine braking from third to first. OD on the coast clutch is now released. This will allow the tranny to freewheel all gears. Except manual one and two.
 

LCAM-01XA

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With OD cancelled there should be no freewheeling of the tranny. OD OFF the coast clutch is applied to give you engine braking from third to first. OD on the coast clutch is now released. This will allow the tranny to freewheel all gears. Except manual one and two.
Yes, and I should have clarified that by "freewheeling" I meant unlocking the converter. My coast clutch applies like it should when OD cancel is activated, and does a decent job in the engine braking department. Just there's only so much it can do when the main coupling between engine and trans (converter) is not very solid. My lockup does not automatically apply at off-throttle when OD cancel is active. Maybe newer TCMs do apply it, I dunno, haven't been able to find an F4 unit to try it. But coast clutch and converter lockup both applied together even at off throttle work beautiful for holding truck back. Just w/ my older TCM this does not happen automatically, hence my slight additions to the wiring. Hey, relays are cheap, aftermarket controllers not so much, lol
 

LSOSGT1109

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The optishift was the best thing I ever did for my E4Od. I was just about to do a ZF5 swap cause nothing I tried would keep it from going into limp mode. Kept getting a TPS code. Tried several different TPS, had it adjusted correctly but it still kept doing it. Then I learned about the Optishift, bought it, installed it, and I've been happy happy happy ever since!
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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i was contemplating an aftermarket controller for mine,now that iv got a hd reman,but then i stopped and thought about it,and the only issues i have is keeping the plugs clean in the winter.so i cleaned the solenoid pack plug real nice this last time and then smothered that ***** with black rtv.id like to see an issue with it now lol.
it's nothing an aftermarket controller would have fixed for me.same plug.the '93's n/a controller (yes the '93/'94's optional turbo controllers are apparently different,but im not sure with what) operates the e40d exactly how i would program the controller myself,so im skipping the idea of going aftermarket.
true the oem setup was wired messy,but i know just about all the quirks and symptoms to help pinpoint any issue anyway.

Eric,
you still haven't addressed your issue.lockup should happen only in 3rd gear.approx 5 mph after 3rd gear shift.downshifting should be easy with goosing the throttle about 3/4 she should open the converter,downshift back into 3rd,then lock the converter back up.
try cleaning the main harness at the ecm again and run a devoted ground to your tps.
don't settle.keep at it regularly until it's operating perfectly.it's worth the effort.
 
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