Replaced 7.3L lost 10 years ago!

[dontstrokeme]

So let me start this thread off with a page out for typ4 or moose to PM me please as far as rebuild options for a 1992 N/A 7.3L fuel pump and injectors.

I am finally able to replace the F250 I had at the end of high school and the first rig I paid for myself. My girlfriend's Explorer died and my truck had trade in value so it was traded in on her Malibu. It was stock but straightpiped. I have to find a picture of it. Anyways over the last 10 years we got married and (class reunion was this summer) I had an 1989 460 C6 with Gearvendor, a 2003 Dodge Crewcab Cummins 4" and 35" Toyo, 1983 F250 351W and 4spd, and a 1986 F250 351W C6 with a service body on it. The 1986 is my shop truck for my mobile Diesel Repair business Too Tall's Truck.ump with 206,000 miles no big deal. My main field is CAT engine and hydraulics but trained in all the CAT arts.

So the C6 nets me 9 MPG doing 55-60 on highway, mind you 4x4 and always 8000 lbs or heavier. So I missed the 1992 to no end and finally found a 1992 F350 (better for the solid front axle) that already had a single rear wheel service body and the E40D and 7.3L N/A in Kentucky on ebay for $3800 buy it now. So I would be into it for about $5000 to get it home if no problems came up. That much cost is not an option for my bootstrapping business but I needed an E40D for the mileage gain over my C6, so I could make money with my mileage charge out instead of breaking even.

SO I resolved to find a $500 needs work 7.3L and swap it in as time and cash allowed. SO within a few days I catch a 1992 F250 4x4 reg cab E40D and 7.3L for $500 and needs an injector. Turns out it propably needs an injection pump but with 206,000 miles no big deal.

The truck will get a F150 shortbed and ARE aluminum canopy and will become my sleeper repair truck with air and generator in canopy. Of course I will have a log truck trailer builder Z cut and shorten the frame to be as tiny as possible!

SO now I am going to do a compression check when my tester gets in to Snap-On and then pull the pump and injectors to ________ (insert respected forum supporter here) or Seattle Injector soon and have them rebuilt and tested, I want a bored and honed style rebuild and enough fuel to fill headers and straight pipe, but never any turbo. I want it done right and to be using the low setting on the pump. I absolutley hate black smoke and think it will get diesel banned...


Thanks for any help available. Pictures coming soon.

 

[92F350CC]

The supplier of Moose products is Mel(User name Agnem).

I don't see why you wouldn't want a turbo. Turbos actually help diesels burn the fuel and so you would have a cleaner truck with less black smoke.

 

[NTOLERANCE]

Boring your 7.3 may not be the best idea, read the FAQ in this forum on block worm or cavitation.

The walls are pretty thin and you will likely need to sleeve the bores if the cylinders are worn.

 

[dontstrokeme]

Sorry. Bored or honed pump housing in the fuel pump. To remove the wear rather than just put new pistons in the old pump bodies. I assume the internals of our fuel pumps is similar to any rotary piston pump? Most hydraulic pumps have a set of barrels and pistons that have slipper heads that ride a swash plate that varies the amount of run that each piston delivers fuel with. I have read that the Oriely's reman pumps are just parts swappers. I want this one to be rebuilt if possible the right way, and I understand that this is possible. I do not need the truck running anytime in the next year so I have time to wait for a rebuild.

I do not want to bore the engine block at all.

I do not want a turbo for a few reasons.
-Didn't have one on prior 1992 and had no problems pulling 15,000 pounds for my dad.
-Everybody thinks that you have to have one.....nope.
-Same reason I want a F250Regular Cab Shortbed Diesel
-Turbos totally and 100% suck for offroad, my Common Rail Dodge would light off and I had to stand on the brakes to stop if at all able. Unless you have a turbo that is way too small to warrant the addition, you always have a lag. After I put K&N on my prior 1992 it accelerated just as fast as most factory gas engines. The power of N/A is off-on-off.
-I plan on adding LPG fogger into the intake eventually on the N/A via operator switch. I want to find out if it can improve MPG with an uber-simple low injection pressure LPG. If I add a turbo at that point I will only add twins, independant to each header manifold. I have a buddy that makes triple turbo kits for the Duramax so I know I have the resources to add it later if need (desire) arises.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Way to much for me to digest. What was the question?

 

[icanfixall]

With all the reading and posting I have done for the past 6+ years... Its my feeling that the 6.9 block is the better engine to build. Reasons for this thought is being able to safely bore them. I know there is a 25 cubic inch differance in the 6.9 compared to the 7.3 but thats not a reason for not building a 6.9. The head bolts are smaller than the 7.3 but upgradeing to ARP studs takes care of that issue. Running a non turbo piston is not going to hurt anything either. Sleeving a 7.3 is about the safest way to build that engine but they can be bored too. your just taking a big chance of "finding" the cavitation problem...

 

[93fordturbo]

I don't find any lag with my truck. It just gives me that little extra kick when I need it. they don't turn the truck into a race car...just give a little extra when needed

 

[typ4]

bored, balanced, torque cam, stock pump rebuild turned up 7%. At least with my builder, matched injectors and it will pull as hard as you can do with any non turbo. Oh and a performance valve job not just an" its just a diesel" valve job.
Email me with any questions
[email protected]