Rebuilt E4OD 800 miles ago now having problems
- Thread starter Greenie
- Start date
XOLATEM
Full Access Member
I believe you...and it is stuff like that that gives good guys and shops in general a bad name...it makes it lots harder for the honest folks out there who work hard to build a good name.
I try to believe the best in people but reality is that some will try to cheat and shortcut their way through life...
It usually never works out for them in the long run...I can think of a few examples...people I had to distance myself from...
Cryin' shame...
I don't blame you one bit...those people owe the other guy an apology...and his spare keys...
XOLATEM
Full Access Member
Probably ought to toss that theory and work up another one to test....
I had to rig up a sound device that would beep out the codes on a...think it was a 1990 diesel truck with an E4OD once...you could use an analog voltmeter and count the sweeps on the needle or hook up a radio shack sound device and sound out the codes...two digit codes.
If your code reader won't work...you need to see if the computor will belt out any codes at all...by another method...
If you can get any codes it will tell you something...if you can't get any codes by any means then that is telling, also. There is a way to test the Self Test Connector but you will have to look that up at the moment.
I am still suspecting the connection at the main harness connector.
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
Take a look at the transmission range sensor. Make sure the index marks are lined up.
With the other reassembly issues, they could have tossed the range sensor on without setting it.
With the other reassembly issues, they could have tossed the range sensor on without setting it.
XOLATEM
Full Access Member
Excellent point...did not think about that...
There was a tool to set it but I did not need it because the sensor had lines on it to line up...
I was thinking that you might want to get the main connector shield bolts loose some way and gain access to the connector for another look-see and buff up....(not literally) If they really are lock-tited then you need to be patient and careful...lets hope they are not...
Installing the connector only part way was an issue early on...the connector was changed on later models...and the rubber o-ring could get dislodged...and keep the connector from bottoming.
Anyway...if you can get to it and want to see into it...one thing I noticed is that the soleniod body would let fluid weep through the connector pins...and carry contaminants with it that could be conductive...I would get a mirror and look into the cavity and see if it had a pool of fluid in there...if so...I put a 90 degree bend in a blow gun and blew it out and cleaned it real good....but...you have to get the sealing o-ring put back in its groove...with a mirror and a pick tool.
Then...blow out the fluid in the harness plug and smear it with dielectric grease and carefully inset it back in there...if it goes any bit cocked then the female connectors will spread and not give you good, tight connection.
There is one other thing I would do with a problematic unit...but I am not sure if you want to tackle it...I had a method of tightening up the connections but it is involved...and a fresh pigtail harness was available to solder in instead.
So ...you can try this...but it would be good to test the STC first and then try to get codes manually just in case you have some other issue.
XOLATEM
Full Access Member
Something occurred to me...can you check your alternator for potential AC ripple..? DVOM set to AC around 1 volt +/- and B+ to DC out and black to ground...run engine and see if you have much, if any voltage...
.25 VAC or less=ok
AC voltage in excess will mess with ECM
.25 VAC or less=ok
AC voltage in excess will mess with ECM
I'm not sure I'd know how to find AC on the alternator - the output is DC - I know that alternators do initially generate alternating current - but how could I measure AC? Maybe a coincidence but I've gone through 2 aftermarket radios - not cheap ones either - in the last couple of years.
I've done a cold start and watched the tach twice now - nothing until the engine comes off hi idle as it warms. A 20 mile test drive today was flawless.
I've done a cold start and watched the tach twice now - nothing until the engine comes off hi idle as it warms. A 20 mile test drive today was flawless.
I found this: "Set the DMM to read AC volts and measure the battery while the engine is properly warmed up and idling at approximately 1,500 rpm, which will put some load on the electrical system with the headlights and blower turned on. If there is more than 0.1 volt (50-100mV, depending on the vehicle) of AC ripple, then the alternator is most likely bad. Be sure that the meter you are using blocks DC voltage while in the AC mode. Check the battery voltage with the engine is not running and see if the meter reads voltage while in the AC mode. It should not show any voltage if the DC is blocked." https://www.underhoodservice.com/alternator-ripple-testing-the-ghost-in-the-machine/
I set my Fluke 323 clamp on meter to AC with engine off and found 0 AC volts. With the engine on high idle, high beams on .1 volt AC steady.
I set my Fluke 323 clamp on meter to AC with engine off and found 0 AC volts. With the engine on high idle, high beams on .1 volt AC steady.
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No, I'll keep it simple and keep it stock. This is the 2nd alternator. Do you have a recommendation? Amazon has a Bosch for $153 and an AC Delco gold for $117. Do you think this might have been what's cooked my two radios? One was a Sony and the second was a Panasonic. Usually replacement radios are bulletproof...
AC voltage and poor grounds are the killer of any electronic devices.
As for alternator recommendations, I've always just gotten Napa ones. Lifetime warranty, even without the receipt, if the sticker is on it, you're golden.
As for alternator recommendations, I've always just gotten Napa ones. Lifetime warranty, even without the receipt, if the sticker is on it, you're golden.
I probably never would have figured out this transmission problem being an ac ripple. If this solves the issue (I'll report what happens long term) I owe XOLATUM & NERO a huge amount of thanks. I most likely would have replaced the 3 sensors, then the TCM (which is no fun to access) and still had the issue. It's doubtful a transmission shop could have known either...
XOLATEM
Full Access Member
I am going to thank Nero for cleaning up my mess...my voltmeter instuctions were vague and my AC pain limit was excessive...
Nero explained things a lot better than my first attempt. I should have used better terminology. The allowable limit for AC voltage interference has gotten stricter than what I was taught many moons ago...I did not take into account more modern systems and the possibility of more sensitive components.
Nero...good man...thank you.
And Greenie...thank you for sharing that article from Underhood Service...that helped bring me up to date for the future. Being able to check the meter for blocking DC voltage in the AC mode will come in handy.
I dropped off the radar for a coupla days because I had to load up and move out a buncha stuff and did not have internet service until last night.
No, did not use my truck this time...hadda use the Girl Truck...the one with the circular saw cut in the tailgate....(sigh...) come to think of it...its got a bump in the bumper, too...
In the future guys...when I say B+ It means Battery Positive (+)
And Ground...well we all know that means Battery Negative (-)
Diesel fuel prices on the road varied between 3.89 and 3.69
Did not see it any cheaper...even at the Truck Stops.
Nero explained things a lot better than my first attempt. I should have used better terminology. The allowable limit for AC voltage interference has gotten stricter than what I was taught many moons ago...I did not take into account more modern systems and the possibility of more sensitive components.
Nero...good man...thank you.
And Greenie...thank you for sharing that article from Underhood Service...that helped bring me up to date for the future. Being able to check the meter for blocking DC voltage in the AC mode will come in handy.
I dropped off the radar for a coupla days because I had to load up and move out a buncha stuff and did not have internet service until last night.
No, did not use my truck this time...hadda use the Girl Truck...the one with the circular saw cut in the tailgate....(sigh...) come to think of it...its got a bump in the bumper, too...
In the future guys...when I say B+ It means Battery Positive (+)
And Ground...well we all know that means Battery Negative (-)
Diesel fuel prices on the road varied between 3.89 and 3.69
Did not see it any cheaper...even at the Truck Stops.
