Realistic budget of a 2wd -4wd and goodies build

[laserjock]

That doesn't seem like low enough voltage for all the plugs to be lit. I seem to remember in Bill's test rig it was pulling down to like 8 or 9 volts. Maybe I'm mis remembering. Where did you get your relay?

Almost sounds like something in your system isn't passing enough juice. Grounds good and clean to the block?

 

[Greg5OH]

yes all plugs still good, test around .1-.4ish ohms

yes all grounds are great twin 2/0 grounds, one battery to block, block to frame, other battery to frame. Relay is from a western plow dealer, 150a 100% duty cycle, 600 amps in rush. remember this is like the 4th relay i tried as well. I tried one of the plugs in "open air" with the others hooked up, it got red hot in 2 seconds.. this was the first plug in line of the harness (cyl 1)

im wondering if my huge compared to stock wiring is such low resistance, somehow only the first few plugs get juice and the rearward ones dont? My new harness is a long 8 gauge wire, with little drop harnesses for each plug, basically each bank has the plugs in parallel. Not having the Z strip affecting it that much? But it limits current as it heats up..so like we mentioned, seems the opposite of what I need..?

that controller should be in today. i took the car to work, truck is cold (shoudl be up to 70 today though!), I will take apart the battery terminals clean everythign up make sure it is all fine and dandy. I noticed some corrosion yesterday from under the terminal..perhaps laser you ar eon to something where the full current isnt getitng passed.
Will clean, reassemble, glow for 8 seconds and it should light off very quick. If not, ill put the controller/z strip in and try again, will keep you posted, thansk for the help so far.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[laserjock]

I would think your harness is fine. Find Oldbull8's thread on Gp testing and look at the color of the plugs he tested as they heat. You did one outside the head. See if it looks similar. Best advice I can give you at this point. He also had voltage and current measurements there too.

 

[Greg5OH]

yes mine did get all ncie and discolored after the heat cycle. Ill dig that thread up, it was good

 

[Greg5OH]

Heres a video os it starting. This is with the chromalax strip. I actually jad it started 2 times before this video all about 8 minites apart. glowed 10, 10, in the video 8 seconds. Judge for yoirself. I have the pedal pushed down about 1/4 of the way. completely unacceptable. Almost sounds like air intrusion, but your think after the first start it would have all been purged? Is it the IP going out? Starts great hot though

http://youtu.be/RfwKSLWu3X8

 

[jhenegh]

Air. Rushes when it fires. Sounds like mine if I've ever had the fuel system open. When mine tries to start with no/not enough glow it coughs way more

 

[Greg5OH]

Indeed, indeed. lcam was right alll along it seems. I went thru all the connections they appeared to be fine, i have not replaced the clamps with those nice fuel injevtion ones yet..that will have to be mynext step.

Why does it start good when plugged in?
And why does it start bad even after atarting it 3 times tonight within half an hour?

 

[79jasper]

Kinda sounds more like a fuel delivery problem the way it catches like that.
I went back about ten or so pages trying to find what you're running for a fuel pump but didn't see it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[laserjock]

Sounds like a facet pump clicking before it starts.

 

[Greg5OH]

Yes facet pump, stock ip, r&d injectors

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Air. Rushes when it fires. Sounds like mine if I've ever had the fuel system open. When mine tries to start with no/not enough glow it coughs way more

The reason she rushed when she finally lit off was cause he had his foot on the throttle and didn't back off the fuel instantly - I hold ours halfway down and it does the same, and it's even worse when it's one of the girls is starting it cause they just floor the ***** and aren't exactly very good at letting off right away

What I can tell you Greg is that this is nothing like what ours does when airlocked - ours will at least try to catch on a few cylinders and will shake the whole truck while doing so, to the point where even the ZF shifter is swinging around like a church bell clapper. Yours does nothing of the sorts it seems, just cranks and cranks with no attempt to fire on even a single cylinder. Then when she finally started on the 2nd glow it was clearly on all 8 cylinders at once, as she idled way too smooth when you let off the throttle - ours NEVER starts on all 8 after airlock, and the idle is anything but smooth till whichever cylinders were slacking off finally join the party.

Why she starts good when nice and toasty - well cause she's nice and toasty!

Why she starts lousy when started 3 times in half hour - cause you shut her off instantly and never let her idle for more than a few minutes to build up some heat, therefore every time you started her you needed to use the plugs and there is obviously an issue there. If it were indeed an airlock situation then the first time she fired the air would get purged almost instantly and the next time you hit the start she'd be all primed and ready to go.

I'm gonna see what ours does tomorrow with just starter and no plugs action. Bet the result will be just the same as what you showed us in that video. Then I'm gonna watch the P3 voltmeter like a hawk, naturally it's digital and it's wired directly into the power distribution center under the hood which is hooked up directly to the battery with 4-gauge fine-stranded cable - the plugs are fed via separate 4-gauge cable right off the battery as well, so the P3 should be able to give me a good reading of what the actual voltage drop is at the battery terminals...

No idea *** the problem is with yours tho. Everything seems fine as far as wiring goes... How big is your main feed cable for the system again?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Wait, hold on, just saw your diagram. Here's a curve ball for ya, HOW are the little drop harnesses connected to the 8-gauge branches? And how long are them branches to begin with?

 

[Greg5OH]

Whn i say half on throttle, i had the hand theottle up to approx 1000rpmish to mimick the hi idle solenoid.
4awg feeding two 8awg wires for the cabling. Cleaning all hot and ground connections.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Wait, so did you ever touch that throttle pedal during that video??? Cause id you didn't then she had no reason to drop the engine speed down after she lit off, should have stayed nice and high if it was just the hand throttle controlling it and there's no air in the lines.

Okay, 4-gauge main feed is good, that's what we have and ours will start well below freezing and on 5 cylinders if need be (dead plugs on the other 3 IIRC). So that's out as a probable cause. How are your singe 4-gauge feed and two 8-gauge branches connected? Simple crimp barrel? Junction sleeve with clamp screws? Ring terminals with a bolt holding the 3 of them together? Also what about the connections between your "drop harnesses" and the main 8-gauge branches? I know it sounds like I'm grasping at straws here, that's cause I am...

Side note, if you want your dash to stay in one piece take that hand-throttle setup off there. Or you can keep it there, but use machine screws (or bolts) thru the dash with washers and nuts on the other side. Self-tapping screws are extremely efficient in staring cracks in the brick dash, and once these start there really is no stopping them other than finding the end and drilling a hole thru it there.

 

[Greg5OH]

what i mean is that before i started cranking it, i had the hand throttle opened and locked so that it would idle approx 1000 rpm; i dindt touch it during the cranking sequence.
as for the connectors, its a butt connector, and the two 8 gauge are soldered inside, then used a hammer lug crimping tool to smash it together. did this with my 2 different harnesses too. new one is one 8 gauge per bank, with the insulation removed every 4 inches or so and 12 awg drop wire wrapped around, soldered, heat shrunk and driction taped on.
Honestly id like it to be the harness, but it isnt
could one bank not be getting grounded? I dont think I have both heads grounded but there are so many brackets and other bolts conneting heads to block, plus the mass alone, would seem unthabkable that one head could be left ungrounded?