Pulling ZF-5 for freeze plug replacement

Fasterthanyou925

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Any tips when I do this? I have the tool ordered through Snap-On and should get it tomorrow when I see my tool guy tomorrow. Any tips when I pull it? It's 2wd and I am not an inexperienced wrench but I don't want to run into any snags (I'm doing this at my shop and have to get it all done in a day)
 

franklin2

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I found I had to take the exhaust loose, and let the back of the engine tip downward to get the tranny out. It's like a automatic, the bell is made onto the tranny and to get enough room to slide the tranny back it has to go downward to miss the floorboard. The exhaust system won't let the engine tilt down in the back.
 

Fasterthanyou925

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I found I had to take the exhaust loose, and let the back of the engine tip downward to get the tranny out. It's like a automatic, the bell is made onto the tranny and to get enough room the slide the tranny back it has to go downward to miss the floorboard. The exhaust system won't let the engine tilt down in the back.
Hmm, so down pull the piping from the turbo? I'll spray some penetrant on it Saturday as I'm doing it Sunday
 

Leeland

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Letting the engine tilt back helps. But do your self a favor and pull your carpet back and pull the trans cover. So you don't fight the shifter tower against it. Gives great access to the upper bell housing bolts as well. It can be inconvenient to get the rear bolts on the pan but I've left the seat in place and done it.
 

franklin2

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I would not mess with the turbo piping unless it's in the way. Do you have a flange in the system as it goes toward the rear? That would be a easy place to disconnect it so the engine will tilt back.
 

1995voyagerES

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Don't want to open a new thread for this...just one question: I'm about to do a DMF to SMF conversion with a LUK kit on my F250 (DMF rattles like crazy sometimes) and I want to use bolts with the head cut of to guide the transmission back on - can someone tell me what bolts will fit?
 

chris142

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Took 2 of us 3 days to put a clutch in mine. Real PITA that I hope to never have to do again. Had to gut the interior to get the shiftier back in. We did pressure wash the trans and related components while it was out. I also over filled the trans with new oil through the shifter hole. Had to pull a side cover to fish a pin out that we dropped when removing the shifter.Then once it was all together I pulled the fill plug and let it drain till it was at the proper level. Man we fought that truck every inch of the way. Did not have to mess with the exhaust pipes but I don't have a turbo.
 

LCAM-01XA

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Don't want to open a new thread for this...just one question: I'm about to do a DMF to SMF conversion with a LUK kit on my F250 (DMF rattles like crazy sometimes) and I want to use bolts with the head cut of to guide the transmission back on - can someone tell me what bolts will fit?
They are 1/2" coarse thread bolts, will probably be listed as 1/2-13 in the bin at your hardware place. Length, well couple of inches, I'll crawl under truck tomorrow and give you a proper number there.

Took 2 of us 3 days to put a clutch in mine. Real PITA that I hope to never have to do again. Had to gut the interior to get the shiftier back in. We did pressure wash the trans and related components while it was out. I also over filled the trans with new oil through the shifter hole. Had to pull a side cover to fish a pin out that we dropped when removing the shifter.Then once it was all together I pulled the fill plug and let it drain till it was at the proper level. Man we fought that truck every inch of the way. Did not have to mess with the exhaust pipes but I don't have a turbo.
wow, you folks sure did get the short end of the stick there - I pulled a 4-speed and shoved in a ZF in about a day and a half, by myself, taking my sweet time, and that included moving crossmembers and reshaping the tunnel cover plate and fabbing a new shifter (factory one is horrible). Exhaust definitely needed to come down, this was the case fir both the 4-speed and the ZF with both the factory exhaust and the contraption that's on there now. Non-turbo truck too... So yeah, just plan on dropping the exhaust, and start spraying the manifold studs accordingly.
 

chris142

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Ya no kidding. Bottom of my trans is round.top of the trans jack is flat,transfer case making it twist and the chinese trans jack twisted the higher up I cranked it.
 

ToughOldFord

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Ya no kidding. Bottom of my trans is round.top of the trans jack is flat,transfer case making it twist and the chinese trans jack twisted the higher up I cranked it.

There's the problem, you're suppose to remove the transfer, then the transmission. Replace the transmission then reinstall the transfer. The transfer is way too side heavy to leave on.
 

LCAM-01XA

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I wasn't sure how it came off
6 bolts holding it to the transmission tail, top 2 ones are easiest to get to from the top (inside the cab) when the tunnel cover pan is removed. They're 3/8" bolts for the older New Process t-cases, Borg-Warner 1356 uses 10mm, don't recall about the BW 1345 tho. About 80 lbs they weigh, give or take, bit awkward to balance cause of how heavy the planetary section is at the nose but can still be easily bench-pressed in place.

For the jack I always use some wood to support the trans on the sides, 2x2 or 2x4 as needed, ratchet strap the whole works to the jack and it's fairly stable.
 

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