Rdnck84_03
Full Access Member
I believe one of the wires in the harness is the ground.
James
James
Project Little Foot
- Thread starter onetonjohn
- Start date
onetonjohn
Full Access Member
There are two wired to the sender. You're saying one goes to ground? That would be great. Not to thrilled about trying to drill the pinched seam to connect a ground. I'll try to ge some senders and see if that fixes gages. Suppose I could clamp a gnd temporarily to see if it's any better.
Old Goat
Full Access Member
On my 86, there are only 2 wires from the senders, no separate wire for the ground. So one must be ground.
There is a Blue/yellow from one thank, and a Yellow/Blue from the other. these go into the FSV. When you flip the Dash Switch to change tanks, then the Yellow/White wire out of the FSV runs up to the Dash switch, and into the big plug in the instrument Cluster for the Fuel Gauge.
I just replaced all my "O" Rings and return Hoses yesterday.
Looking at your engine picture, it is plumbed exactly line mine,
except I removed the hose from the Filter to the first Injector on the passenger side. There was a Ford TSB on removing it. Think there was a problem with it early on. Haven`t ha any problems with doing it.
At rear of the engine where the return lines come together, there is a hose that connects to that block and runs down the back side of the engine. That is the return to the tanks. Think it is 5/16".
I can`t tell if yours is blocked off, don`t know why someone would do it.
From under the truck, I think it is a grey plastic fuel line that comes along the frame, then runs up the Firewall to that block.
Some where there is a rubber hose connected to it.
I didn`t replace this piece yesterday, so not sure how the plastic/rubber is connected.
You can buy the Viton "O" Rings from McMaster-Carr size 111, in a bag of 50. use to be around $10. Now with Joe`s cut in the deal not sure what the price is today.
I used the same return caps, just cleaned them up, and bought some Gates rubber hose from O`really`s the proper size for the Caps, and used the same Spring Clamps.
When you do pull the caps off. Be sure to remove at least one of the Vibration Clamps off the Hard Lines. This way there is more springy give to the Hard Line W/O bending one. Bend/tweak Injector Line, and/or the posibility of cross threading the Cap Nut.
Be sure to replace the Vib/Clamps.
I fought the 2nd one from the front on pass side yesterday seemed like an Hour trying to tweak it back into linement.
Some ham ****** prior owner/s messed it up, and I have had it off several times. This time the S O B was stubborn.
EDIT: Another dirty word blanked out...
fis ted, there ya go
Goat
There is a Blue/yellow from one thank, and a Yellow/Blue from the other. these go into the FSV. When you flip the Dash Switch to change tanks, then the Yellow/White wire out of the FSV runs up to the Dash switch, and into the big plug in the instrument Cluster for the Fuel Gauge.
I just replaced all my "O" Rings and return Hoses yesterday.
Looking at your engine picture, it is plumbed exactly line mine,
except I removed the hose from the Filter to the first Injector on the passenger side. There was a Ford TSB on removing it. Think there was a problem with it early on. Haven`t ha any problems with doing it.
At rear of the engine where the return lines come together, there is a hose that connects to that block and runs down the back side of the engine. That is the return to the tanks. Think it is 5/16".
I can`t tell if yours is blocked off, don`t know why someone would do it.
From under the truck, I think it is a grey plastic fuel line that comes along the frame, then runs up the Firewall to that block.
Some where there is a rubber hose connected to it.
I didn`t replace this piece yesterday, so not sure how the plastic/rubber is connected.
You can buy the Viton "O" Rings from McMaster-Carr size 111, in a bag of 50. use to be around $10. Now with Joe`s cut in the deal not sure what the price is today.
I used the same return caps, just cleaned them up, and bought some Gates rubber hose from O`really`s the proper size for the Caps, and used the same Spring Clamps.
When you do pull the caps off. Be sure to remove at least one of the Vibration Clamps off the Hard Lines. This way there is more springy give to the Hard Line W/O bending one. Bend/tweak Injector Line, and/or the posibility of cross threading the Cap Nut.
Be sure to replace the Vib/Clamps.
I fought the 2nd one from the front on pass side yesterday seemed like an Hour trying to tweak it back into linement.
Some ham ****** prior owner/s messed it up, and I have had it off several times. This time the S O B was stubborn.
EDIT: Another dirty word blanked out...
fis ted, there ya go
Goat
onetonjohn
Full Access Member
Going through and fixing leaks till I try it again. I have new filter bracket with sender. Sender is leaking bad. Is that stock sender and gauge for late model trucks? Does it fit any aftermarket gauges? Can I get after market gauge/sender that will fit these threads?
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I'm pretty sure that is what lights up the "Fuel Filter" light on 7,3 trucks. You can remove that sender and put a 1/8 NPT (I think) plug in it's place and be just fine. It's also a good spot to hook up a fuel pressure gauge if you wanted one.
onetonjohn
Full Access Member
Fuel gauge it is. Need to do some research and figure out a good brand and how to connect and survive engine vibration (maybe some type of quick disconnect like an air hose).
onetonjohn
Full Access Member
Got a cheap gauge and a plug at napa. One of the plastic caps was leaking so fixed (replaced) that with another I had laying around. Having the fuel guage and knowing that's what the input of the injection pump is seeing is great. Now I know the injection pump is getting 3 to 4 lbs of pressure. Got fuel to the cracked injector injector lines. Pretty happy about that. Swapped out the broken glow plug controller with no ground with one that had a ground. Had to swap out one of the back intake bolds, as I didn't put one in with a nipple for the ground and harness bracket. Just had a bolt before. Torqued to 24 ft/lbs. Figure its fine, but probably not great to torque everything, remove a bolt and put one back in an re-torque. Maybe no big deal, but wished I had put the right bolt in there to start.
Got the zf-5 shifter in. Feels loose. I can't remember if the ball end sits in a plastic cup or something. No plastic in mine, but there is some slop.
Going back to the gauge. I'll likely keep it connected while I'm starting it up, or if I have problems, but keep the plug in there most of the time. I've heard the gauges won't survive the vibration and end up breaking if you try to leave them in.
Got the zf-5 shifter in. Feels loose. I can't remember if the ball end sits in a plastic cup or something. No plastic in mine, but there is some slop.
Going back to the gauge. I'll likely keep it connected while I'm starting it up, or if I have problems, but keep the plug in there most of the time. I've heard the gauges won't survive the vibration and end up breaking if you try to leave them in.
Fwiw
I only read your posts in this one...
Looks like yer well on the way.
These guys are very good at information.
I did an interior swap on an early rx7 "once"
So a +1 on your never again thing.
Here's an offering I make to the build gods....
When you start to run out of motivation, make yourself do one thing a day. Just 1 thing...
Motivation is cyclical this keeps the juices flowing.
Don't say "tomorrow " " EVER"
I only read your posts in this one...
Looks like yer well on the way.
These guys are very good at information.
I did an interior swap on an early rx7 "once"
So a +1 on your never again thing.
Here's an offering I make to the build gods....
When you start to run out of motivation, make yourself do one thing a day. Just 1 thing...
Motivation is cyclical this keeps the juices flowing.
Don't say "tomorrow " " EVER"
onetonjohn
Full Access Member
Great advise.
onetonjohn
Full Access Member
Got the truck running today. Fired up relatively quickly after fixing all the fuel leaks and broken glow plug controller. The wiring diagram that shows the two connectors (Old style and new) and how to modify the pinout is good and working.
onetonjohn
Full Access Member
One thing that I thought was wierd was it ran really smooth. Like a gas motor. No rattle rattle rattle clack ckack clack like my other 86. Didn't let it run long cause I got a lot of little stuff to button up. Just wierd. Seemed to run good. Will timing make it run really smooth? If it's really retarded? I'm kinda thinking it's a timing issue as I have new injection pump and haven't timed it at all. Gonna take classes advise and try to button up one little thing a day. Will circle back to timing after i get some of these other things out of the way. Just curious if bad timing will make it run real smooth?
It could be retarded, fwiw
The factory timing hash marks are only accurate for the oem i.p.
Try moving it like a dimes thickness ( old trick here) at a time stone cold.
Keep advancing the cold eng. Till it clatters like a rock polisher.
Then roll it back a thin dime retarded.
Did I mention stone cold? Yes ! Why?
So the cold advance is doing its thing.
It shoud stop clattering bad when the high idle/advance kicks off.
Whatcha do today?
Btw
See the timing service registry for someone close to ya...
The factory timing hash marks are only accurate for the oem i.p.
Try moving it like a dimes thickness ( old trick here) at a time stone cold.
Keep advancing the cold eng. Till it clatters like a rock polisher.
Then roll it back a thin dime retarded.
Did I mention stone cold? Yes ! Why?
So the cold advance is doing its thing.
It shoud stop clattering bad when the high idle/advance kicks off.
Whatcha do today?
Btw
See the timing service registry for someone close to ya...
onetonjohn
Full Access Member
Contacted drive line shop and got them measurements they will need for the new drivelines (I did a BW 4407 transfer case swap). Gonna be out of town till Friday, so I'll need a pass for a couple days 
. Those BW4407s are super stout, so I'm hoping it will outlast the rest of the drive train - that I'm hoping will outlast me.
. Those BW4407s are super stout, so I'm hoping it will outlast the rest of the drive train - that I'm hoping will outlast me.
onetonjohn
Full Access Member
Got some time to work on the truck and get driveline to the driveline shop. Got measurements for driveline so shop will start on then next week. New senders came and went in last week. Resistance looks good but gages still read read empty. Going to fill it up and see if they move. They only have around 4 gallons (each) in them now but guages didn't move. Put the bed back on cause it looks better than a tarp and I know senders, floats and showerheads are good. Also put the hood on so I don't need a tarp there too. Might make some things harder but looks cleaner and gets some of the parts I had laying around the yard cleaned up. Truck looks better too. Still a ton of work to do but looks like a truck again.
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