Project Dirty Diana

[jetfly12]

Hello all,
After owning the truck for about 3 years, I have decided to start a thread posting pictures of all the work I will be doing to it soon and have future ideas and plans that would bring some good content to the forums. I bought the truck for the purpose of towing my jeep shown on my profile picture, and so far it has completed three 1200 mile trips to moab.

A picture when I first purchased the truck.

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1994 F-350 7.3 IDIT CREWCAB LONGBED RWD 3.55 gears

A year later I pulled the engine and transmission out for refresh rebuild just because it was at 250K and tired and 4th and reverse grinded hard. So I had time and $ so why not.
New rings and bearings, cylinders honed and valves lapped, typ4 cam and 910 springs, aluminum radiator, water pump and tstat, power steering pump, oil cooler rebuilt. For the ZF5 transmission. new clutch and pressure plate, synchros, shift bushings and boot were installed. New westlake A/T 275/65/16s. New seals for engine and trans as well.

Here is a pic when everything was brand new and ready to run another 250k!

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A trip to Moab after a 1000 mile break in. And rescued a friends jeep with a sheared trackbar bracket. Going over I70 was a one.

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6 months later, dirty Diana received some brand new upgrades, a 3 to 4 inch straight exhaust, a R&D stage 1 drop in turbo, and stage 1 injectors. The turbo being a little loud and stage ones are a little smoky, but overall I am happy with it.

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I have a youtube channel and try to do videos as often as I can. The channel name is IDI Ford Diesels and it has the popular stage 1 turbo install videos and hard cold starting clips. Please subscribe if you get a chance

I have a long list of things to do for this idi, so I will start picture logging everything here on out so stay tuned!

 

[jetfly12]

To start things off, I am currently focusing on the fuel system. The plan is to install a sump on the front tank into a rotary pump, into a fuel regulator, filter and lastly the check valve. The goal is to be free of air intrusions and fully primed at all times, while on a budget so ebay for the win. I am going to install a small pump wired to a switch to transfer fuel from the back tank to the front and just completely eliminate the FSV. We'll see if I can get the stock fuel selector switch to power a relay to kick on the transfer pump. It will be quite the project, hopefully to start on Easter weekend! Here are the goodies so far...
Sump was 40$, ebay generic. 105p Mr gasket with regulator was 80 something dollars, some quality fuel hose clamps and a 3/8ths checkvalve from CDD!

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[Thewespaul]

Sweet! Glad to see a dedicated thread for it. I really don’t care for the mr G regulators, but the Holley regs work great. I would plumb it so the reg is after the filter, otherwise your inlet pressure won’t be right because of the pressure drop across the filter, and check valve before the pump.

Any plans on putting an intercooler in?

 

[jetfly12]

Any plans on putting an intercooler in?

Yeah that is the plan and will probably be the main highlight of this thread! Looking into possibly doing water to air. When I did my new starter and cables last January, I moved the driver side battery and tray just behind the passenger side battery. I now have a nice open area for the system.

Today I got around to working on converting the oil switch to a sender. The purpose of doing this mod is so the oil gauge in the cluster will fluctuate based on oil pressure and RPM's just like the older chevy trucks did. No more dummy on or off. I purchased a PS60 oil sender off amazon, it apparently comes from a lot of ford and AMC gas motors. Installed the oil sender and soldered a jumper wire to bypass the resistor that is on the oil signal circuit on the back of the cluster. At first it did not work at first but after a while it kicked on and worked, I think I must of had an air pocket on the brass t fitting I am using from fastenal. I love this mod.

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[rewbrooks50]

Sump was 40$, ebay generic. 105p Mr gasket with regulator was 80 something dollars, some quality fuel hose clamps and a 3/8ths checkvalve from CDD!

That is the fuel system I have. After Wes, CDD, installed the pump my pressure is never lower than 6 psi.
I am looking forward to your fuel transfer rear to front.

 

[jetfly12]

I am looking forward to your fuel transfer rear to front.

I will prolly use this Mr. Gasket that I have laying around to transfer. Should work well!

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Next weekend I will begin the plumbing and wiring, this weekend and last I have just been too busy.

When I did my oil pressure sender mod I noticed that there was variable resistor on the back of the tachometer gauge. You do have to pop the face off the cluster housing to access it. The tach never worked and finally replaced it a few months ago, and it worked BUT it was completely inaccurate. I figured this out through an online RPM calculator of google. So I am glad I discovered this because it can be fine adjusted (CCW to lower and CW to increase signal) So now I got it dialed in and shows the correct RPM in each gear and speed. It was reading too high previously and made me think I had 4.10s for a second .

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The adjuster is the white piece on the right and a small screw driver is good enough to turn it. After 2 small adjustments I was happy with where it was at!

 

[jetfly12]

Well it snowed outside so had some time in the garage today.
Removed two bolts and a strap, a wire connector, vent line, and the fuel to and from FSV disconnected and the front fuel tank was pretty easy to remove. Discovered that the brand new one year old dorman shower head already failed. The screen and the rubber valve had already fallen off, so it was sucking air with about 6 gallons still left in the tank. Super disappointing, going a hose with a v notch at the bottom would've been much better and cheaper.

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Got an ebay fuel sump and since I did not realize the fuel tank is made out of metal, I had to go buy a 3 inch bimetal holesaw. It is now all converted for 50$ total.

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I was thinking I will use the two lines on the stock fuel sender as the regulator and IP fuel return, and brainstorming where to put the 3rd fuel line for the fuel transfer. The sump does have a 1/4npt port so that might work nicely. I have a new fuel filter on the way so hopefully will be mounting everything up onto the frame rail this week!

 

[Hagan]

I did something similar to you with my '89 F350. I also eliminated the switching tank stuff and ran an external fuel pump mounted on the frame that pumps fuel the front tank to the back. I also swapped in a 38 gallon rear tank. I should have just ditched the front tank but its nice to have 55 gallons of fuel capacity. Mine was originally a gasser.

 

[ttman4]

Nice job on Diana!!

On my '90 F350 I run a bed tank along with my stock front tank & my added 38 gal Bronco rear tank. I added a gasser FSV before my stock FSV so I can pull out of my bed tank. I then added a 3 way manual FSV to my return fuel line so I can return fuel to any of my tanks.

ie: Pull out of my bed tank & return to bed tank or rear tank or front tank. Pull out of rear tank & return to rear tank or front tank or bed tank. Pull out of front tank & return to front tank or rear tank or bed tank.

Works good for my use. Just have to remember to swap my manual return switch to desired tank & not over fill one of the wrong tanks!! Makes a mess!! Especially if I'm pulling a trailer & over fill one of the tanks!!

 

[jetfly12]

Those are all some good ideas! I should have looked for a 38 gallon tank before starting this fuel system. But for now I am just going to keep it simple and easy! Fuel out and in on the front tank, and a transfer from back to front!

I got everything mounted up for the most part but made a couple simple mistakes. I need to space out the fuel filter out some more because I realized I need to make it easy to spin on and off filters in the future. And I should of attached the filler hose before hanging up the front tank, I am having a hell of a time getting it to slip on laying on my back arms above me. Looking at how everything is mounted, I just think it makes sense to pitch the steel line and go all rubber hose, to tee the fuel regulator return in the fuel return from the motor and from there it will be a single hose back to the front tank.

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I am going to solder a wire so I still can use my fuel filter sensor. Gauge will be relocated to inside of the cab eventually.

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Just gotta plump it all up and wire the relay, and I'll take care of the transfer in a couple weeks. Fedex delievered my WATER TO AIR INTERCOOLER today! Stay tuned for some pictures!

 

[jetfly12]

Ordered the DIY water to air intercooler kit, rated for "600" horsepower. The cooler core is 10"x4.5"x4.5" and is recommended for 700 CFM. Very fast shipping, was here 48 hours after purchase. I was attracted to the simplicity of this system with minimal piping, less volume for boost to fill, water has better cooling and the fact that it is a stand alone system. No hot engine coolant involved. The new Ford 6.7s use water to air I believe.

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Two half inch ports for the water plumbing, and one tapped hole for bolting and mounting on each side of the end tanks. Has a grinder finish to it and I may paint it.

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I accidentally selected the type 117 with a 10" fan, which is a 12x12 radiator instead of the 118 type with a 7" fan. That one is 26"x7" so larger then the one I have, and can fit inside the stock front bumper and get more direct airflow. The 10 inch fan does flow more air at 1250cfm as opposed to 1100cfm with a 7". So I am on the fence if I should see about sending this one back and get the wide and narrow one. I gotta order piping and couplers so I may just might.

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Plenty of hose, clamps, and a water pump that is rated at 500gph. Figuring out how to mount that water pump at the lowest point in the system will be the toughest step of the install IMO.

I want to do a couple towing tests up a steep hill before and after and see the changes in EGTs and see if it can hold 4th gear.

But first I need to finish up the fuel system and I am going to do that now!

 

[Thewespaul]

Nice, I’m glad to see another water to air setup going on an another idi, I think they are a good solution for the bricks and bulls which lacks the space the obs has for an air to air. I would mount the water pump off the bracket where the horn is mounted to the core support, but you may find a better spot for your setup. Lookin good

 

[jetfly12]

Wanted to start off today's post that I now have a properly working drivers side window, it has been stuck for about 6 months and finally replaced the motor. 32$ on amazon prime, works great, happy happy.

Finished up the fuel system on Sunday morning. Converted the injection pump inlet fittings over to a 3/8s push lock on a JIC from R&D performance. Works like a dream and keeps things clean. Picture below

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I can hear the pump running inside the cab before I start the truck but once started the engine noise drowns it. But so far I like it, and motor runs smoother and do not have fuel starvation issues now with my maxed out IP. Just a tad more power. The gauge shows a steady 10-11psi pre regulator at idle. I believe the regulator is preset to 7psi but I need to move the gauge post regulator with a 3/8s adapter and see where its at.

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I will solder an extension wire for the filter sensor so it functions like stock.

My fuel gauge did not work without the FSV so I plugged it back in temporary. So I am trying to figure out how to make both tanks function without it. I have tried looking at the schematic and testing the wires with a multi-meter and still can't figure it out. I do need help haha!

I got the silicon boots and 2 inch aluminum pipe plumb up the water to air intercooler, and swapped the radiator out to a type 118. I think it would work out nicely.

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[jetfly12]

Just did some mock up today so I know what kind of materials I will need from the metal distributor. To hold the radiator, I think I will run a piece of angle between the frame rail and on the two bolts that connects the front trim between the bumper and grill and it will house as shown in this picture.

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I am thinking I will pipe the water to air intercooler like this.

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I will build some brackets so the water intercooler can be supported in that location. Still waiting on a custom 3 inch intake hat. Got a long ways to, fab work, plumbing and wiring the fan and water pump. sigh, stay tuned.

 

[saburai]

Great build thread! Subscribed...