Project Big Red

[IDIoit]

another thing I thought about was putting battle switches on my frame mounted battery.
then if you needed to do anything with the electrical, glow plugs, starter, alternator etc.
instead of climbing under there to disconnect the battery, you flip a switch.

 

[laserjock]

I'm going to put a circuit breaker on the charge circuit anyway so that covers the alternator. Instead of fusible links I've got high amp circuit breakers to use in some places. But other than the batteries not being up front, there's not going to be a huge change to the electrical layout.... well... I guess that depends on how you define huge.

 

[F350camper]

Here is a pretty smoking deal on some one aught if you dont already have some. ( 50 feet total, 25 feet each color.)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019O1M9TK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just bought this for my 2nd battery install. Good made in usa stuff.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

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Intercooler fits good. Room around the boots. You real observant folks will say, hey, isn't the lip on the radiator in the way of the pipe going through? The answer is yes. Now the dilemma, do I clearance the radiator flange or do I try to clearance the core support more and try to clear the radiator. I have two hang ups with clearancing the radiator. 1. It may cause problems with the fan shroud mount point. 2 if I ever have to mess with the radiator, I'll have to pull all that piping and possibly clearance the new radiator if for some reason I'm doing a roadside repair God forbid.

What say the masses?

no contest.easy choice.
just trim that flange there right off the radiator.if you were to try and cut out the support enough so your pipe could clear that too,you would be waaaaay too far into the meat.
whereas cutting off that rad lip wont hurt a thing.

 

[IDIoit]

I cut the lip off the rad.
yes you will have to delete some holes for the rad, and the shroud I believe.
I had to, cant remember which ones, I think it was rad to core support.
the great thing about those clipnuts, you can re-install them anywhere.

 

[subway]

Same here, I lost my bottom 2 radiator bolts to intercooler piping. It has been fine sitting on the pins and retaining the top 2 bolts.

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[laserjock]

Well, the issues I have is that the rad is just barely sitting on the pins. Probably a side effect of cutting the thing apart and putting it back together.

I'm real close to having it all happy together. Took the night off last night. Hoping for good progress this weekend.

 

[IDIoit]

Well, the issues I have is that the rad is just barely sitting on the pins. Probably a side effect of cutting the thing apart and putting it back together.

I'm real close to having it all happy together. Took the night off last night. Hoping for good progress this weekend.

mine was too. I slotted the top holes and moved the clip down a bit so that the rad would sit on the pins.
then I repositioned the middle mounting holes. have not had an issue, with that part anyways

 

[laserjock]

I actually have a width problem more than a height problem. Anyway, onward and upward. Battery boxes came early today. That was the good news. That was the good news. The bad news was the bigger batteries wouldn't fit. [emoji21]

No matter. Couple minutes with the cutoff wheel and we fit snuggly.

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Lid will be useless. I may make a lid. May not. Haven't decided. I will have to shorten the safety strap bolts a hair. They are shoulder bolts.

Problem 1 solved. Problem 2.

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With the contour of the floor, there is really only one place for one battery to fit. [emoji21]

Now what do I do. Charge ahead.

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Even have a ready made hole on the other side for the safety strap.

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I think the other battery is going here.

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I wanted to run a heavy duty winch power cable out the back so that will actually be really nice. That cable will end up being pretty short instead of the length of the truck.

So the long and short of the battery boxes are that they would be awesome for stock batteries. That's what they are designed for and the hold downs came with them for group 65 batteries. For the group 31's, it's better than starting from scratch, but it is not a bolt on affair. You would still have the same issue with one place it fits but if you wanted to relocate the drivers side battery to gain that space for say an air box, this would be a completely viable solution. And they can be had pretty cheap.

That's where I stopped for the night. Drilling the holes in the frame about did me in. Love drilling truck frame with the cab on. [emoji849]

 

[yARIC008]

Is that over spray on the frame making it red? What are you going to do with the extra room under the hood now?

 

[laserjock]

Yes it's overspray. I knew I should have masked it off but oh well. I'll clean it off and recoat it if I need to.

As for the room, on the drivers side, I'll probably put an air box of some sort for the air filter. On the pass side, that's where my extra electrical crap is going to go.

So it was a light day today progress wise. The one big thing that happened was that I got my first ding. Wind blew the door closed hard enough that it knocked a 2x3 that was leaning against the wall over and right onto the hood. It's small enough, I may not fix it. I had a hard time finding it at first. We will see. I opened the door because I was airing out after a fuel spill. Yeah, you kinda see how my day went.

So after walking away and having a little cry, I managed to get a couple things done. The core support is now clearanced for the IC pipes. I dug out my good fan shroud. Had 2 good ones and snow slid off the roof and destroyed one of them. This is what I was doing when I overflowed the heater causing the spill.

Anyway, I got the IC pipes all sorted.

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Need an 8" straight piece to make the last connection.

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It actually wasn't too bad. I only had to make 2 cuts. Can't complain about that.

The only other productive thing I've done is wrap the down pipe.

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The more I stand back and look at things, the only part of this turbo install I'm not happy with is the oil drain. I really hope I don't have problems with it. I may revisit it before it's over.

I looked my inner fenders over and I'm not happy with them. Both the pass side ones I have are torn up. 1 driver side is okay but if it doesn't change the shipping cost much, I'll probably get both so I can start stringing wire.

 

[yARIC008]

Nice. Sucks about the paint. Same kinda thing happen to me a couple months ago. My weed wacker fell off the wall and dented the van right next to the rear window, like the most horrible spot to try to fix...

Your intercooler piping makes me cringe about how I will ever rig mine up too. I have about 100 times less room, no idea how they fit the 6.0L intercooler piping in the van. Too bad I'm no where near as good as a fabricator!

This thing is looking so good, I really hope I get to see it in person some day.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

well if you opt to fix the dent,just think how much better you'll feel about driving the truck around,after gaining the skill set to repair the dent,and blend the paint.

i wouldn't worry about frame overspray.that will be gone after 1st winter.

 

[laserjock]

i wouldn't worry about frame overspray.that will be gone after 1st winter.

You think I'm actually going to drive this thing in the snow after fixing all this rust????




Honestly, if I didn't tell you there was a dent, you'd probably not find it. It was more the principle of the thing than the actual dent. That and the years that came off my life as I stood helplessly watching from across the garage. It was like slow motion as the board started to fall.

[emoji15]

 

[subway]

I feel you pain with the dent. I just got my truck back from the body shop with a new hood and grill assembly on. About a week later I came out to a small branch that just happened to fall on my new hood......Ggggrrrr! I let it go.

Maybe you will feel better just getting the first ding out of the way and be more relaxed driving it. Either way, great work!

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