79jasper
Chickenhawk
Hard to tell in the pics.
Are those the correct freeze plugs? Jw
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Are those the correct freeze plugs? Jw
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Project Big Red
- Thread starter laserjock
- Start date
79jasper
Chickenhawk
True. Lol
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
So all of them but the spot for the block heater look right to me. (It's the one on the left)
So I guess I just jerk that odd ball out and put the block heater in its place?? I have brand new ones with cords somewhere in my pile-o-stuff
It's definitely painted metal grey. Can see it in the bolt holes.
I picked up some high temp black. I don't know if the normal enamel would hold up.
Opinions?
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So I guess I just jerk that odd ball out and put the block heater in its place?? I have brand new ones with cords somewhere in my pile-o-stuff
It's definitely painted metal grey. Can see it in the bolt holes.
I picked up some high temp black. I don't know if the normal enamel would hold up.
Opinions?
Made some progress boxing in the firewall.
Bandsaw makes quick work of these little pieces.
It's not a show piece but I think I'm going to use this opportunity to play with the dura glass stuff. I will probably smooth the inside out a little too just to keep water from holding up. I'm pretty happy with it. The right side is a little rough but there is a cover and the wiper motor that goes there.
Also need to work on the down pipe clearance area with a bfh.
Goal for tomorrow is to finish this off and paint it. Then work on getting the engine on the stand and the tins done up. I've got a ton of stuff to smooth out and nickel plate.
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Bandsaw makes quick work of these little pieces.
You must be registered for see images attach
It's not a show piece but I think I'm going to use this opportunity to play with the dura glass stuff. I will probably smooth the inside out a little too just to keep water from holding up. I'm pretty happy with it. The right side is a little rough but there is a cover and the wiper motor that goes there.
Also need to work on the down pipe clearance area with a bfh.
Goal for tomorrow is to finish this off and paint it. Then work on getting the engine on the stand and the tins done up. I've got a ton of stuff to smooth out and nickel plate.
Well, I got close to my goal.
I smeared a little duraglass type stuff over the welds and smoothed it out a little. Not great but for where it is and its purpose, finished is better than perfect.
So I turned my attention to getting bits ready for the engine stand.
Sand blasted and primed the adapter.
Then I decided to experiment on it. I bought a qt of Rustoleum high temp 1200 F paint. Thinned it catalyzed it and shot it. It looked decent and shot nice so I did a few other bits while I was at it.
Not totally sold on the color though. It reads kinda brown. I may go on the hunt for something else tomorrow. I was afraid to use the TSC stuff because I can't find a temp rating for it. I really don't want it to blister off the block right off the bat. I want it all to match so I went ahead and shot these parts in it. Besides, they aren't too hard to fix if I don't like it.
Any recommendations?
Anyway, this came today.
I will have to fab a bracket for it but shouldn't be to hard.
I debated fixing the holes in the cab roof from the sun visor and I still may while the front is open.
Up for tomorrow is getting things set up for plating. I also think I'm going to try to find a machine shop with a hot tank to clean my intake and oil cooler headers. I have tried degreaser and pressure washing but there is crap where I can't get to it. Figure it can't cost too much to dip a couple parts right?
Need to get some fasteners ordered. I think I'll replace a lot of them rather than cleaning them up.
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I smeared a little duraglass type stuff over the welds and smoothed it out a little. Not great but for where it is and its purpose, finished is better than perfect.
So I turned my attention to getting bits ready for the engine stand.
Sand blasted and primed the adapter.
You must be registered for see images attach
Then I decided to experiment on it. I bought a qt of Rustoleum high temp 1200 F paint. Thinned it catalyzed it and shot it. It looked decent and shot nice so I did a few other bits while I was at it.
You must be registered for see images attach
Not totally sold on the color though. It reads kinda brown. I may go on the hunt for something else tomorrow. I was afraid to use the TSC stuff because I can't find a temp rating for it. I really don't want it to blister off the block right off the bat. I want it all to match so I went ahead and shot these parts in it. Besides, they aren't too hard to fix if I don't like it.
Any recommendations?
Anyway, this came today.
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I will have to fab a bracket for it but shouldn't be to hard.
I debated fixing the holes in the cab roof from the sun visor and I still may while the front is open.
Up for tomorrow is getting things set up for plating. I also think I'm going to try to find a machine shop with a hot tank to clean my intake and oil cooler headers. I have tried degreaser and pressure washing but there is crap where I can't get to it. Figure it can't cost too much to dip a couple parts right?
Need to get some fasteners ordered. I think I'll replace a lot of them rather than cleaning them up.
Past experiences with painting engines have taught me the problem area (as far as long term paint adhesion) is the heads & exhaust manifolds. The only time I've had problems with paint peeling or falling off in other areas typically result from improper cleaning prior to paint application or low quality paint.
Depending on your goal for the finished appearance, dark colors make it difficult to notice small leaks & dirt, but also make it difficult to see your engine as the dark colors on hoses & wire looms blend together with shadows and the dark color of the engine. Engines painted in light colors allow the viewer to easily perceive "depth" & notice detail.
IMO, the amount of work and degree of detail you've put into this build, it seems a shame to hide it! Again, "great job" and I think we're all anxious to see the finished product!
Depending on your goal for the finished appearance, dark colors make it difficult to notice small leaks & dirt, but also make it difficult to see your engine as the dark colors on hoses & wire looms blend together with shadows and the dark color of the engine. Engines painted in light colors allow the viewer to easily perceive "depth" & notice detail.
IMO, the amount of work and degree of detail you've put into this build, it seems a shame to hide it! Again, "great job" and I think we're all anxious to see the finished product!
If everything goes to plan I'm doing black as a base color and doing accessories and pulleys in satin Nickel. I plan on leaving the intake bare Al. Valve covers nickel. So there should be plenty of pop if it all works out. If it turns out I don't like the nickel, next option will be turn those bits red similar to what leeland did.
That sounds like it should look nice. I used dupont engine paint with ceramic in it. It dries quickly and seems to be one of the better paints I have used. the paint seemed much more resistant to abrasion. I know with some other spray paints they seem real soft for a while until they fully cure. That does not seem to be the case for this paint.
It is starting to peal in a couple of spots I did not prep well though. I can't speak for the long term either yet.
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First shift update.
No pictures but I degreased the oil cooler headers and then soda blasted them to get them in pretty decent shape. That was time consuming.
I stood there looking at things and decided I really should fix these screw holes while I can stand in the crossmember. Two of these suckers from the poorly installed visor.
Welded the holes up. Hit them with some filler and blocked it down.
Shot some rattle can primer on it to cover the bare metal. It looks decent for the little effort I put in. I'll block it all out a little better when I do the paint.
Up next, I think I am now ready to go ahead and get the engine up on the stand. The adapter plate is pretty dry now.
No pictures but I degreased the oil cooler headers and then soda blasted them to get them in pretty decent shape. That was time consuming.
I stood there looking at things and decided I really should fix these screw holes while I can stand in the crossmember. Two of these suckers from the poorly installed visor.
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Welded the holes up. Hit them with some filler and blocked it down.
You must be registered for see images attach
Shot some rattle can primer on it to cover the bare metal. It looks decent for the little effort I put in. I'll block it all out a little better when I do the paint.
You must be registered for see images attach
Up next, I think I am now ready to go ahead and get the engine up on the stand. The adapter plate is pretty dry now.
Second shift update.
I didnt get as much done as I wanted but that's normal.
I did get the intake cleaned up.
Before:
After:
It's not perfect but I think it will be fine. Wrestling with the idea of painting it anyway.
Oil cooler is rebuilt. Used the Dorman Kit. Lubed the orings with 15w50 mobil 1. Pressed it together by hand but it was really tough. Felt good though. Nice and smooth.
Gratuitous valve train shot.
It occurs to me that the adapter plate will cover up the back of the engine. So I shot some paint on the back side.
So the rustoleum catalyzed with majic brand hardener at 16:1 is pretty tough. Maybe tougher than the majic brand stuff. It shoots nice and stuck good the block. Color not withstanding, I really like it. I think it will be fine color wise as long as I don't mix a bunch of different shades of black. If I don't like it I'll paint it all later before it goes in.
This bit and the backing plate should get me to having the engine on the stand. Think I'll put the old valley pan and the spare intake on it along with the old injectors and gp's to get it painted.
Hardware coming tomorrow. Crap I may have forgot the one bushing to plug the intake CDr hole. Oh well. Tap will be here to try. I'm sure I can find something local to test fit.
I didnt get as much done as I wanted but that's normal.
I did get the intake cleaned up.
Before:
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After:
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It's not perfect but I think it will be fine. Wrestling with the idea of painting it anyway.
Oil cooler is rebuilt. Used the Dorman Kit. Lubed the orings with 15w50 mobil 1. Pressed it together by hand but it was really tough. Felt good though. Nice and smooth.
You must be registered for see images attach
Gratuitous valve train shot.
You must be registered for see images attach
It occurs to me that the adapter plate will cover up the back of the engine. So I shot some paint on the back side.
You must be registered for see images attach
So the rustoleum catalyzed with majic brand hardener at 16:1 is pretty tough. Maybe tougher than the majic brand stuff. It shoots nice and stuck good the block. Color not withstanding, I really like it. I think it will be fine color wise as long as I don't mix a bunch of different shades of black. If I don't like it I'll paint it all later before it goes in.
This bit and the backing plate should get me to having the engine on the stand. Think I'll put the old valley pan and the spare intake on it along with the old injectors and gp's to get it painted.
Hardware coming tomorrow. Crap I may have forgot the one bushing to plug the intake CDr hole. Oh well. Tap will be here to try. I'm sure I can find something local to test fit.
junk
Full Access Member
Lazer - Looking great as always. What you use to polish that intake? Right angle and a bunch of different size sanding discs?
One word of caution. Watch hanging the engine using the adapter plate on an engine stand. Local guy had his adapter plate brake across the top and dropped his engine. He had to put in a different crank cause it broke it. Not sure all the details with that, but after that I've just attached the engine straight to the engine stand. He could easily have done something stupid that aided it's fall, but it's made me nervous.
- Jeremy
One word of caution. Watch hanging the engine using the adapter plate on an engine stand. Local guy had his adapter plate brake across the top and dropped his engine. He had to put in a different crank cause it broke it. Not sure all the details with that, but after that I've just attached the engine straight to the engine stand. He could easily have done something stupid that aided it's fall, but it's made me nervous.
- Jeremy
I actually just sandblasted it in the cabinet. I was nervous to do that because I didn't want sand getting inside and not get out. I degreased throughly the inside. It's not perfect but it's not really sticky with oil residue anymore either. Then blasted it in the cabinet. I tried soda but it just wasn't doing it. Worked alright. I got almost no grit inside. I hosed it out throughly and let it dry then ran the air hose through it so I'm pretty confident there's very minimal grit hanging around.
I've wondered about that with the adapter. I put 2 in the adapter and 2 through into the block. If it would break, I doubt the bottom two would hold it though. I don't know if my stand will reach the other holes but I'll look into it. No reason I can't bolt the adapter on with the clutch and flywheel.
Hmm.
I've wondered about that with the adapter. I put 2 in the adapter and 2 through into the block. If it would break, I doubt the bottom two would hold it though. I don't know if my stand will reach the other holes but I'll look into it. No reason I can't bolt the adapter on with the clutch and flywheel.
Hmm.
if you dont fully polish the aluminum, it will start to corrode.
i have used polished aluminum, half polished aluminum, painted AL, it does ok for a year or so,
but it will oxidize.
painting is good, esp of you use a tough paint.
i cant wait to see how powder coating does.
this is a boat i put together about 5 years ago.
granted it sees more of the elements, and with salt water coming up the river due to drought,
its seen alot more than it should.
but this is a great example of polish vs. cleaned up.
LOOKIN GREAT MIKE!
i have used polished aluminum, half polished aluminum, painted AL, it does ok for a year or so,
but it will oxidize.
painting is good, esp of you use a tough paint.
i cant wait to see how powder coating does.
this is a boat i put together about 5 years ago.
granted it sees more of the elements, and with salt water coming up the river due to drought,
its seen alot more than it should.
but this is a great example of polish vs. cleaned up.
LOOKIN GREAT MIKE!
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