Project Big Red

[IDIoit]

Damn there's a lot of floor there.

i know how you feel!
what about using an electric heater to warm up the shop?
when i did my exhaust parts, it was colder than dog snot.
put the paint on a hot plate, and warmed the parts infront of a heater.
mixing the paint when at 80* was alot easier lol

 

[laserjock]

So basically my heat sources are a diesel torpedo heater and a wood stove. With no insulation and no real ceiling in most of the garage once it gets down in the 20's it's both running full bore to keep it comfortable (60 ish). What I can do and will do is point the torpedo heater under the truck so the floor is nice and toasty (from a safe distance behind it so as not to melt stuff) and drop the side curtain to help hold in the heat. I'll get it good and warm, kick on the fan while I'm spraying and until it clears (really quick) and then kill the fan. Everything should stay pretty warm for that short of time. But they are calling for 15F in the city tonight so probably not hanging out in the garage much tonight or tomorrow night. Supposed to moderate into the 40's Wednesday. It was spitting some white stuff this morning. [emoji15]

 

[laserjock]

So here is the floor prepped.

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I went ahead and pulled the head liner.

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Here is the space over the pass door. I think I'll look into some grab handles and maybe a nutsert tool.

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Also hung up my masking paper. Makes it pretty handy.

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Need to mask the dash and install the lower rear seat belt mounts for the shoulder belts. I think I bought rear shoulder belts... Need to check that. I know I have the mount plates for them. Directions say use pop rivets to attach them. I have some stainless rivets but I may do something else. Maybe stainless cap screws.

I worked on masking stuff off. Just need to mask the dash and the tunnel. Need a break line around it if I need to take it off. Need some throw away bolts to stick in the holes so I don't have to chase threads.

 

[catbird7]

She's lookin GOOD! I remember being at this point thinking "I'll never get this thing back together". Have you considered removing the dash? I was a little apprehensive about removing mine however it's not a big deal. About six screws on top just below the windshield and three on the bottom, one left one right and one near the center. Also attached is a picture of my cab with "Peel & Seal" (bought at Lowes) and while I don't have anything to compare it to I'll say this, my cab is quiet.

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[laserjock]

I thought about pulling the dash but I don't think it's worth it at this point. When I pulled the headliner, I thought to myself, damn, I thought I was done taking apart. Bedliner is going down and before I put the carpet in, I'll put some type of sound deadener in. Undecided on type yet but it will probably be something like that. Your truck is an inspiration. Hope mine looks that good when I'm done.

 

[catbird7]

You have far surpassed my attention to detail! Your truck will be "museum quality", "no stone un-turned", "better than new"! I think we're all anxious to see it completed...... Keep turnin those wrenches!

 

[IDIoit]

id hate to say it, but X2 on pulling the dash.
you will have as much time taping it off as you will with pulling it.
not to mention, when you paint you wont have to worry about overspray on the dash.

shes movin along! keep up the good work!

@catbird7 how much was that roll?
i used air duct insulation i think it was 18 bucks a roll, and was 16" x 5 feet

 

[laserjock]

Nothing I build will ever be museum quality unless its the outdoor garden of inspiration variety. I appreciate the kind words though.

You guys make it really hard to draw my line in the sand. The headliner was my line then I figured out it needed to come out to prevent burning the truck down. The dash is my current line. I just gotta get this thing done. I just looked and this thread started in May of 2013. Holy $h!t. I knew it was coming up on 3 years but I didn't think I was that close.

 

[catbird7]

In central PA, Lowes price is $16.50 for the 6" wide by 25' roll. Many of the "Hot Rod" forums talk about using it and most seem to like. I have no complaints.

 

[IDIoit]

buck up little camper!
ive been working on this for 11 years

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[laserjock]

Yeah but that's not fair, how many other builds have you had going on at the same time...I've got one other one that has been on a very low simmer at best... mostly just luke warm. If I could just quit working full time, I'd have plenty of time for my projects. I've tried to convince the wife it's her turn for a while but, she just

 

[IDIoit]

just remember, the only important project in our lifes we call SON!

 

[laserjock]

Yep. I spend a lot of time trying to not screw him up too bad.

 

[laserjock]

Well, it's all taped up. Need the bolts to fill the holes and to wipe it down and I'll be ready for primer.

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Finally got the stupid column together. I think it's right.

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Anyway, progress.

 

[laserjock]

Got it all taped off and wiped down. Then shot the acid etch primer (upol #8). That was what was recommended on the bare metal spots. There was bare spots all over it so I scuffed it all and shot 2 coats of primer on it as per the tech sheet.

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I broke out the Raptor liner kit with the included texture gun. It went on real nice. Here's what one coat looks like.

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Problem. I used 2.5 qts out of 4 in the kit. No way there's enough to do that again. Now what. Okay. New plan. Since this is to seal the metal up mainly, I went to the tech sheet whic says you can reduce 10% and shoot it HVLP. So I mixed the rest of it and put another complete coat on all of it and another good coat on just the floor. Here's the final product with the masking removed.

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I stuck some cheap grade 2 bolts in the seat mount brackets to keep them clean. I dropped 5/16 carriage bolts in the seatbelt mount holes. Worked great.