That would sure be nice if you want to take the time to check, and I'll take your word for it. I am sure without a doubt that my block will not accept the 1" pipe plugs. I've got a guy at my local Fastenal working on it. He's going to let me know what he finds tomorrow.
Project: '94 CC F350 Service Pickup
- Thread starter War Wagon
- Start date
First Sorry took so long
Ok I just measured my NA block at 1.245 but I did not clean out rust what so ever around the edge of the casting thus I can easily see 1.250+ so no worries there!
I also double then triple checked, and my IDIT block uses the same core plugs. I'll have to PULL one of the plugs in order to measure that inside step dimension however I'd really rather NOT if you can be happy that my IDI block has the same dimension inner step as yours.
Here is my OLD reconditioned was supposed to be a good engine that was effed bad block.
It is a reman with two sleeves and bored 0.040 it's toast and I use it for ***** like this...
Here are two core plugs and the BLOCK heater hole shown, I'm pointing to NON factory plugs one I've punched to pull
Hopefully this shows better than previous pics, this is a replacement plug with no NIPPLE DIMPLE
I've pulled the punched plug and you can see the step inside!
Lastly for the full effect, two fingers pointing at the BLOCK HEATER hole.
Now if I can help more let me know!
I suspect that 1" tap don't work for 1.245" - 1.280" holes, just sayin you likely should stick with STOCK replacement plugs and the tool
Hope this helps you out.
Al
Ok I just measured my NA block at 1.245 but I did not clean out rust what so ever around the edge of the casting thus I can easily see 1.250+ so no worries there!
I also double then triple checked, and my IDIT block uses the same core plugs. I'll have to PULL one of the plugs in order to measure that inside step dimension however I'd really rather NOT if you can be happy that my IDI block has the same dimension inner step as yours.
Here is my OLD reconditioned was supposed to be a good engine that was effed bad block.
It is a reman with two sleeves and bored 0.040 it's toast and I use it for ***** like this...Here are two core plugs and the BLOCK heater hole shown, I'm pointing to NON factory plugs one I've punched to pull
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Hopefully this shows better than previous pics, this is a replacement plug with no NIPPLE DIMPLE
You must be registered for see images attach
I've pulled the punched plug and you can see the step inside!
You must be registered for see images attach
Lastly for the full effect, two fingers pointing at the BLOCK HEATER hole.
You must be registered for see images attach
Now if I can help more let me know!
I suspect that 1" tap don't work for 1.245" - 1.280" holes, just sayin you likely should stick with STOCK replacement plugs and the tool
Hope this helps you out.
Al
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Well, I bored the holes out to 1-1/2" all the way through, and tapped them for an 1-1/4 pipe plug. All done. Engine back in and running. More pictures to come. Stay tuned…
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How did you go about doing this? Where did you get the plugs and
Daaayum that is nice!
JUST Called two places....
$170.00 and $185.00 for that tap ***
rent yers?
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How did you go about doing this? Where did you get the plugs and
Daaayum that is nice!
JUST Called two places....
$170.00 and $185.00 for that tap ***
Borded out with an 1-1/2 hole saw and cutting oil. Get a good one not a cheap one. I have a Lenox kit that I used. Go slow and be careful when you punch through or you will hit the cylinder wall. The hole saw will center nicely in the stepped hole. Then smooth the walls of the holes with a round sanding wheel and a die grinder. Then tap by hand. This is a tedious process! It will take all day. It took me over an hour per hole x 7.
I ordered the plugs from Fastenal. You will likely have to have them ordered as not many places will stock these.
I borrowed the tap. I'm looking to buy a whole kit up to 1-1/4 now as I need them periodically, but yes they are expensive.
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Wow,
Nice very nice, I may purchase a tap from flebay and do the holes with a die grinder myself, few hundred hours doing porting I can get that pretty darn nice If I do say so myself.
Damn that's NICE!!!
Too bad they are not seen easily.
The hole saw route is worth it I think. I only used the die grinder with a sanding wheel on it to clean up the holes before I tapped them, but there's more than one way. As far as I have found I'm the only one who has done this on here at least.
junk
Full Access Member
VERY NICE!! I like it a lot. Looks great and no worries about those damn plugs coming out again.
Thanks for letting us know how you did it. Hole saw interesting. I'll have to check out a Lenox hole saw kit. I've typically bought Dewalt here locally and had reasonable luck, but would like a kit.
Thanks for letting us know how you did it. Hole saw interesting. I'll have to check out a Lenox hole saw kit. I've typically bought Dewalt here locally and had reasonable luck, but would like a kit.
Oddly enough several years ago now I did discuss this option and it was frowned upon as the comment went IIRC that there is not enough meat to cut threads in and all the machining bla bla bla...
Well thank you very much for making my point for me!
I'm leaning towards investing in a tap off Fleabay and perhaps...a hole saw kit..
Then, it's Stainless plugs If I can find em.
Paint the block all purdy like and then add something shiny, as it would be a waste to not see those **** plugs!
Again thank you for this
I really wish you had taken some before, and during process pics and made a Tech 101 out of it too!
Guess I'll have to now buwa ha ha ha ha
Oddly enough several years ago now I did discuss this option and it was frowned upon as the comment went IIRC that there is not enough meat to cut threads in and all the machining bla bla bla...
Well thank you very much for making my point for me!
I'm leaning towards investing in a tap off Fleabay and perhaps...a hole saw kit..
Then, it's Stainless plugs If I can find em.
Paint the block all purdy like and then add something shiny, as it would be a waste to not see those **** plugs!
Again thank you for this
I really wish you had taken some before, and during process pics and made a Tech 101 out of it too!
Guess I'll have to now buwa ha ha ha ha
Yeah maybe I should have taken some pictures of the process along the way, but it's straight forward. Boring it out. Smooth it out. Tap it out. There's plenty of meat. I used black iron plugs.
My thoughts exactly. I never have to worry about a plug coming out again. I just got the Lenox kit because it was on sale at Fastenal. It seems to be a good one though. I cut 7 holes in my block and my cutter teeth are still like new.
I like this. I've been dreading pulling the plugs out of my block because of the challenge of reinstalling them correctly. If I may ask, what did you run the hole saw with? Low speed on a large drill? Drill press? I've done things sorta like this before, but never an engine block. Getting the hole saw to run smooth is not trivial. A good 1/2" drill will whoop ya. Well will whoop me anyway.
Yes, you wan't to bore those holes out slowly with lots of lubricant,(cutting oil), the blocks contain a hi content of Nickle and will surface harden if hi speed is used.
Can't remember for sure, but the 460 CID used for Marine, Police, 429 and 427 truck engines where all fitted with tapped freeze plug holes. Damn, gotta look but I know I had at least 3 1-1/4" pipe taps by midnight requisition.
Can't remember for sure, but the 460 CID used for Marine, Police, 429 and 427 truck engines where all fitted with tapped freeze plug holes. Damn, gotta look but I know I had at least 3 1-1/4" pipe taps by midnight requisition.
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