Parking Brake/E-Brake needs adjustment

[RSchanz]

Hello,

My parking brake/e brake (not sure which is technically correct name) needs to be adjusted/fixed. The brake barely works anymore. Admittedly, I've left the brake engaged a few times and driven off. Most recently I drove at least 5 minutes before realizing it. While this makes the issue worse it's also a testament to how bad it was in the first place.

I did some poking around but had trouble finding clear information on how to adjust the brake for the 6.9l. This seemed pretty clear but points to the real issue being the rear brakes in general https://www.oilburners.net/threads/parking-break-adjustment.33113/. Can anyone help advise?

Thanks!

 

[u2slow]

Your parking brake is a literally a mechanical (cable) override for your regular rear brakes.

Your rear brake adjustment affects both. Take the rubber plug out the bottom of the backing plate behind each wheel and spin the knurled wheel inside with a screwdriver to tighten.

 

[Big Bart]

You might also want to put the axle on jack stands and the truck in neutral. Then turn the wheel and adjust till you have a little drag. Go test drive, if good leave it, if still not where you want it try again. If they are very loose you might have to do it twice so the brake shoes reseat after your first adjustment.

 

[RSchanz]

Can I just make a quick but dirty fix by leaving it on the ground and popping the rubber gasket off and flicking it up a few times? I need to use the truck tomorrow and don't have time to jack it up and put it on stands etc. right now.

 

[u2slow]

Can I just make a quick but dirty fix by leaving it on the ground and popping the rubber gasket off and flicking it up a few times? I need to use the truck tomorrow and don't have time to jack it up and put it on stands etc. right now.

That's what I do most of the time. The next drive - even if its only returning to front driveway - ends up being the 'test drive'.

Very unlikely to overtighten the brakes on a single attempt. The next brake application resettles the parts, and its usually a bit looser again.

 

[RSchanz]

That's what I do most of the time. The next drive - even if its only returning to front driveway - ends up being the 'test drive'.

Very unlikely to overtighten the brakes on a single attempt. The next brake application resettles the parts, and its usually a bit looser again.

How many clicks do you usually do on these adjustments? Flicking it up tightens right? I found a video:

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

 

[gandalf]

The trick, when doing a quick and dirty adjustment, is getting the two sides even. If one side ends up significantly tighter than the other side it will grab sooner and harder than the other side. This situation leads to some very exciting stops.

When I adjust my rear brakes I jack up the rear end, both sides, and remove the wheels and the drums. I really dislike adjusting through that little hole in the backing plate. I tighten each one until it drags too much, then back off a bit til it barely drags.

 

[typ4]

How many clicks do you usually do on these adjustments? Flicking it up tightens right? I found a video:

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

The point is to NOT mess with the park brake till the wheel adjustment is correct. just a little makes a big difference in the park brake action.

 

[Big Bart]

As suggested above, tightening the cable is not adjusting the parking brakes per say, rather the cable length.

So adjust each brake drum first with the e-brake off, using the little window/hole in the brake backing plate and star adjuster inside. You want the brakes to rub slightly but not drag.

Now that the brakes are adjusted, you can tighten the e-brake cable adjustment so your e-brake pedal in the cab say only goes say 60% of its travel before the brakes tighten and the pedal stops moving.

I would advise you perhaps pull the wheels and drums to see how much brake pad you have left.

 

[RSchanz]

As suggested above, tightening the cable is not adjusting the parking brakes per say, rather the cable length.

So adjust each brake drum first with the e-brake off, using the little window/hole in the brake backing plate and star adjuster inside. You want the brakes to rub slightly but not drag.

Now that the brakes are adjusted, you can tighten the e-brake cable adjustment so your e-brake pedal in the cab say only goes say 60% of its travel before the brakes tighten and the pedal stops moving.

I would advise you perhaps pull the wheels and drums to see how much brake pad you have left.

I think the whole thing needs a brake job but I'm renting the truck on a photoshoot tomorrow and the parking brake is not reliable. I probably won't mess with it tonight and I'll just bring a wheel chalk in case I need to stop on a hill

 

[RSchanz]

Happy New Year everyone... thank you for all of your advice this past year.

Yesterday I got into the rear drums. Passenger side looked ok but drivers side had gear oil in it. When I used the steel brush to clean the rust/residue off the shoes it just ate away at the shoe. I'm guessing thats from the gear oil deteriorating the pad. So now I will just replace both shoes but I'm looking for advice on what needs to be done to fix the leaking gear oil issue. Also any advice on particular tools necessary or extremely helpful when replacing the shoes.

On the drivers side photo you can see the oil and also the parking brake cable lol! I bent that bracket back and re-attached the spring to where it should be.

Passenger Side:

You must be registered for see images attach

Drivers Side:

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[IDIBRONCO]

That's your hub seal leaking. You have to pull the axle shaft and then take off the nut behind the axle flange then you remove the outer bearing and the hub/inner bearing will come off together.

 

[RSchanz]

Pulling the axle shaft then requires re-packing bearings etc correct? Like most things I have zero previous experience doing this. Only replaced newer trucks CV axles that are pretty simple.

This seems like the thread to follow:

Rear Axle Oil Seals R&R...Easy or PITA?

Well, after 30 years of ownership (bought new) and 226,000 miles my driver side rear axle oil seal is starting to weep. I've done a LOT of work/maintenance on this Truck myself (health is now bad) but I don't really trust a shop to do it, fear it will come back with damage (differential making...

www.oilburners.net

 

[IDIBRONCO]

No. These are oil bath bearings that are lubricated by the rear end oil which is where your leaking oil is coming from. The best solution that I've seen is to jack up one side of the rear end and let it sit, then do the same to the other side That will give the oil rime to run down the axle tubes and into the hub. After doing that, you will probably need to add some oil to the rear end. If you don't have time for that, the next best solution is to wipe a thin layer of grease over the outside of the bearing rollers. This will keep the rollers lubricated until the oil works it's way to the hubs from driving.

 

[gnathv]

If you look on YouTube there are several videos that may help you prepare to do yours.