parallel turbos

[1mouse3]

Found the thread. I imagine you could compensate for higher fuel pressure by advancing or retarding the IP timing as needed. Just be aware that once you go above 8 psi or so it starts changing the IP timing. So my saying 10 PSI is too high isn't exactly correct, just that things change once you hit that high of inlet pressure.

Official test results of fuel inlet presure/timing

There was some debate a while back about the effects of fuel inlet presure on timing. I had negative experiences with a gas EFI pump, and others were running pumps greater than 7 PSI, but less than the estimated 50 PSI that the gasser pump was pushing. Somewhere in between... I said, must be a...

www.oilburners.net

So would only cause a loss of 1 to 2 degrees of timing curve at idle running 10psi, and in turn have idle slightly advanced. That is not much too worry about and the 6.9 ran fine without changing timing, and the pump keeps the pressure without a check valve on the return from the ip. So Im going to leave it how it is, since works and will not starve the ip of fuel.

 

[1mouse3]

One basic trick is to let it idle and then push on the timing plunger a few times. See if it's smooth, hard, choppy, gritty, etc. Does it affect the idle? It should. That'll give you an idea of it's condition at least.

Is the timming plunger show in this pic?

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[1mouse3]

You may have tried some of this, what I would do:
1. Run it without valve covers (maybe you still have them off) this would also negate anything you think is by the “cdr” . If not, you already ran it with the oil cap off which does the same thing.
2. Compression test
3. Pull your boot off the intake and run it without the turbos and all that in the pic and see if it runs different
4. Did you use a new ip and injectors or known good for certain?

2. I only tryed on 2 and got about 350psi on both, cracking the injectors showed that all cyclenders had the same input and see no reason to test more

 

[1mouse3]

This. Plus get a gauge on the inlet fuel pressure to IP. That means after the filters. Then ATF soak overnight!

This did not work, so have someone looking for a work ip. Got a spare could send for a rebuild, but looks like lead time will be long and dont see one in stock worth buying.

 

[hacked89]

2. I only tryed on 2 and got about 350psi on both, cracking the injectors showed that all cyclenders had the same input and see no reason to test more

I’m not sure exactly what you mean about injectors showing cylinder input related to compression.

This did not work, so have someone looking for a work ip. Got a spare could send for a rebuild, but looks like lead time will be long and dont see one in stock worth buying.

If you want to pay for shipping back and forth, i can mail you my test IP. It’s somewhere around 140cc.

 

[1mouse3]

I’m not sure exactly what you mean about injectors showing cylinder input related to compression.



If you want to pay for shipping back and forth, i can mail you my test IP. It’s somewhere around 140cc.

The injector dosent realy show anything but going off feed back from the engine. Since the injector need a set psi to pop, cracking a line open will disable one and see this in the same way as unpluging a electrical one. Killing a cylinder is the feed back and listening to the tone change in the exhaust, to determine if there all working the same. The exhaust has almost a even tone for all and is what lead me to the though that this is not a single cylinder issue to chase, and is a issue pertaining to all. So since 2 are at 350psi and I dont hear a cylinder that is missing or struggling, I see no reason to push on with that test. Another way I could explain it is two speakers out of phase, you can hear it as a echo going from one to the other and having your hand on both it can be felt. Also think the knock that is heard is ignition, since think am only hearing it with the injection pump powered up and cranking.

I got a lead on a pump I will be probuly going to get tomorrow.

 

[hacked89]

The injector dosent realy show anything but going off feed back from the engine. Since the injector need a set psi to pop, cracking a line open will disable one and see this in the same way as unpluging a electrical one. Killing a cylinder is the feed back and listening to the tone change in the exhaust, to determine if there all working the same. The exhaust has almost a even tone for all and is what lead me to the though that this is not a single cylinder issue to chase, and is a issue pertaining to all. So since 2 are at 350psi and I dont hear a cylinder that is missing or struggling, I see no reason to push on with that test. Another way I could explain it is two speakers out of phase, you can hear it as a echo going from one to the other and having your hand on both it can be felt. Also think the knock that is heard is ignition, since think am only hearing it with the injection pump powered up and cranking.

I got a lead on a pump I will be probuly going to get tomorrow.

I understand, was curious to hear what you did. It’s like an all mechanical relative compression test.

 

[Booyah45828]

Is the timming plunger show in this pic?

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It's the hex you see cut off at the bottom of the photo.

What he's pointing at is the rotor inside of the head. Specifically the intersection of the inlet and discharge passage inside the rotor.

 

[1mouse3]

I got a used ip off a said running engine...

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So got the ip out...

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Ready for replacement...

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This is the tag, if means anything...

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Past me apparently, did not replace all the o-rings on the 6.9 injectors that had rubber ones put on 10 years ago. This is all the viton ones that did not damage by a pick. They are more chunky than the ones I got from harbor fraight, so the injectors with need move to the front...

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With them out check them and they checked as set...

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This pump seems to work better and gives a lot more fuel, It will now smoke me when trying to get it past 1500rpm. While having it run this time, it started also making a ringing. Also not sure on why have a lot vibration in the passenger side exhaust and hear the knock more on that side. Did play with the timming plunger and it dose have effect on how the engine runs. I also pulled the air filler on the driver side turbo, see that one working along with there being some vaccume on vent hose now with some pressure at the ports on the air horn. So see all that is needed for this to run but something is not right.

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[The_Josh_Bear]

Did you verify the passenger turbo is spinning? I could see a dead turbo causing a lot of potential cross-miss action if one side of the engine isn't carrying it's weight. Though I haven't experienced it myself.

 

[1mouse3]

Did you verify the passenger turbo is spinning? I could see a dead turbo causing a lot of potential cross-miss action if one side of the engine isn't carrying it's weight. Though I haven't experienced it myself.

I have checked before that can spin it by had but would not hurt to pull that hose to see if spools like the other.

 

[1mouse3]

I found the issue and got her to send, need to rember not to snap the throttle tho. Also testing back pressure, being 6 psi means the 10cm hx35 turbines are a perfect size. Will know how the compresor side is when I get to take her for a ride. I will play with the timing tomorrow and get her ready for a run, will find as much heavy stuff that will fit in the bed to soften up the ton and a half springs.

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Also had someone sort this out so can use a 1in fitting.

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[The_Josh_Bear]

You left the rag in the intake heater!? We've all been there brother... at least it was something simple after all!

 

[1mouse3]

You may have tried some of this, what I would do:
1. Run it without valve covers (maybe you still have them off) this would also negate anything you think is by the “cdr” . If not, you already ran it with the oil cap off which does the same thing.
2. Compression test
3. Pull your boot off the intake and run it without the turbos and all that in the pic and see if it runs different
4. Did you use a new ip and injectors or known good for certain?

3. might had helped but the 6.9 pump was brough back from dead too many times, and this time it was just too weak to give the impression of over fuel. With the repalcement, it was more obvious that there might be a lack of air.

10 psi is too high and changes the timing of the pump I believe. My R&D pump came calibrated for 7psi. There is a rather large and in-depth thread of PSI and pump timing, I'm phone posting otherwise I'd link it for you.

I was mistaken or past me at some point, change the return fitting on the ip to one that was not punched out. I have a second 6.5 lift pump, I am plaining planing to mount them in parallel for redundancy. When I do that, will see what the pressure is then with a knocked out fitting.

It’s like an all mechanical relative compression test.

Thats a good simple explanation for what was done.

You left the rag in the intake heater!? We've all been there brother... at least it was something simple after all!

Hay at least it pushed me into partly doing checks that are good to know for the futrure, so not compleaty blind on the state and made me stop to chase leaks.

 

[Jesus Freak]

I found the issue and got her to send, need to rember not to snap the throttle tho. Also testing back pressure, being 6 psi means the 10cm hx35 turbines are a perfect size. Will know how the compresor side is when I get to take her for a ride. I will play with the timing tomorrow and get her ready for a run, will find as much heavy stuff that will fit in the bed to soften up the ton and a half springs.

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I really did not want to pull this back off, but no external checks gave any leads. It was not making sense of how there is gobs of fuel, but where is the air to burn it. I though I counted all stoppers and dont know how it did not burn when I did play with this toster.

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Also had someone sort this out so can use a 1in fitting.

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Since the few of us that are curious know what happened, you are welcome to delete as many of these post as you like........no one else has to know, your secret is safe with us.