Oil Cooler Bypass

Pino2234

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First off I took off the oil cooler because there is oil in my antifreeze. I tried to pressurize it and it took 60psi before blowing the gasket I fabbed up so I figure I have a crack in the block somewhere else.

But my question is has anyone ever or even know if you can just block off the oil cooler ports and just run an external oil cooler somewhere else?
 

dyoung14

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First off I took off the oil cooler because there is oil in my antifreeze. I tried to pressurize it and it took 60psi before blowing the gasket I fabbed up so I figure I have a crack in the block somewhere else.

But my question is has anyone ever or even know if you can just block off the oil cooler ports and just run an external oil cooler somewhere else?

Not sure if its possible, cause dont the oil filter hook to the oil cooler?
 

pybyr

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The original poster's question/ suggestion is something that crossed my mind a few weeks ago (when I was no where near a keyboard to think to ask it) after hearing repeated tales of woe regarding oil coolers and o-rings, leaks, difficulty finding cores, etc.

The OEM oil filter does indeed mount onto one of the castings that's part of the oil cooler, and that "boss" also has, if I recall from the diagrams, a "bypass valve" (in case the oil filter plugs with particles) and a pressure/ flow regulating valve- but I wonder if someone was sufficiently ingenious/ desperate whether they could make some adapter port/ plates to mount on the block, and then remote the filter and some appropriate valving and an air cooled oil cooler.

The engine manual for my 7.3 refers to fabricating some properly shaped steel plates with ports for testing the oil cooler, so you might go with something like that in reverse.

My OEM oil cooler is, as best I can tell, still fine, and I am hoping that it stays that way, but I think the original poster makes an interesting suggestion.
 

leftcoastjeff

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First off I took off the oil cooler because there is oil in my antifreeze. I tried to pressurize it and it took 60psi before blowing the gasket I fabbed up so I figure I have a crack in the block somewhere else.

But my question is has anyone ever or even know if you can just block off the oil cooler ports and just run an external oil cooler somewhere else?

"I figure I have a crack in the block somewhere else"
I hope that's not the case.

You may have a very common problem, the smaller of the 2 orings is all that's between the oil and coolant.
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As long as you have it off, do all (4) the orings, and gaskets (no sealant)...good luck.

LCjeff
 

THECACKLER

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You would need a huge air cooled oil cooler to just match the efficiency of the stock unit. Probably half the size of the radiator would be a good start and that would just be to match the stock unit. Water has 10 times the thermal capacity of air. Add that to the bonus of the cooling system thermostat acting like one for the Oil Cooler as well. If you ran a remote O/C you would have to allow the oil to bypass the cooler when cold so you would have to add a T-static Bypass valve in the system. Then you would have to size the lines sufficiently as to not impede oil flow or pressure. Don't get me wrong, it can be done. I'll stick with a good stocker, designed by the IH guys using Finite Element Analysis. I learned along time ago not to second guess a good engineer.
 

Sycostang67

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It should of at least been designed so that if it fails, you aren't stuck with the worlds biggest milkshake. They really couldn't have thought of another way to keep two fluids that have no business mixing, separate. Here's an O-ring. cookoo
 

argve

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in industrial applications you have to rely on a paper gasket - I'll take an o-ring over that any day....
 

OLDBULL8

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I would prefer a metal barrier.

Don't know about that. I've taken those oil coolers apart with 280,000 miles on them, the o'rings were hard as rocks but not leaking. The Viton rings are so much better, they won't get hard like the Buna N do. Just make sure when replacing them they are well lubed with petroleum jelly "vasoline". KY jelly is for something else. :D
 

The Warden

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First off I took off the oil cooler because there is oil in my antifreeze. I tried to pressurize it and it took 60psi before blowing the gasket I fabbed up so I figure I have a crack in the block somewhere else.
FWIW the oil pressure on my engine routinely goes up to 60 to 65 psi when accelerating while cold...so, I would think that it'd be best to test the oil cooler to at least 80 psi before declaring it good.

To answer the other question, as others have said, you would need to maintain the flow from the back fitting to the front fitting, and you'd need to make provisions for an oil filter. You could probably do it by installing plates over both fittings, with fittings in the plates for hoses or pipes to get from the rear to the front. However, the stock cooler's much more efficient than much of anything that could be fabricated, and the failure rate isn't THAT high, and not worth the trouble to fabricate something aftermarket. So, I would keep it stock. Just my $.02...
 

hesutton

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Keeping the oil cool and clean is vital to the engine's life span. I'd really don't think removing the oil cooler completely is a good idea. Like stated, it is very effiecent and it will be hard to beat it with an air to oil cooler.

Heath
 

Pino2234

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thanks, it didnt take to long to take it off. Turns out there was a crack somewhere else in the motor so the block was junk.

My daily driver's oil cooler is leaking so I'm going to have to take that apart one day.

Oldbull8 where did you get those diagrams? Are they in some book I can buy?

Also where can I get these viton o-rings b/c when I take mine off I want to put them in.
You mentioned putting my truck in my sig, but aren't all the 6.9 and 7.3 oil coolers the same?

The truck I was checking pressure on was a 91' 7.3. My daily driver is an 86' 6.9.
 

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