occasional blue puffs

[4x4manonbroke]

Ok so I recently changed both my fuel filters filled them both with clean ATF as usual.... I'm runnin a boi-tech 10 micron filter and a Baldwin BF-1222 fuel/water seperator........ there was no studdering at first and and it pull great as usual... but occasionally I get these blue puffs when I shift from high rpm's..... never happened before.... fuel system has been go through fron to rear.... no air in fuel I already replaced all fuel lines and fittings ... no runs great after all that.... thinking I might have a pump thats leaking now ???? and occasionally when I start it up after running it .. sits for around 15 min. it will studder and smoke and stumble and then clean out and idle just fine... some times it smokes for a min... and some times not.... I'm kinda corn flustered as what to do ...

 

[Kevin 007]

If its acting up on a warm start it is most likely a weak injection pump suffering from a heat soak condition. The blue smoke on shifts is odd...a sticking metering valve "might" be the culprit or a dirty CDR valve. Restricted intake maybe???

 

[4x4manonbroke]

Well I have a 6" k&n filter ... What is a cdr valve... Is it sericeable ?? It will puff blue warm or cold first thing...

 

[bigpanda16]

Valve seals maybe?

 

[4x4manonbroke]

OK so today it was a little warm around 80 ish ... and now she fires right up and runs great.... no more puffs of smoke ( the blue kind that is).

but occasionally when i fire it up when its warm it still stumbles a bit and smokes for a few seconds then clears up.... thinking I might have a leaking injector.... runs awesome on the top to idle ... so I guess its just a minor annoyance at this time.

 

[Grass Hauler]

Any change in the way it runs over the last 3 weeks. I have the same symptoms as you and have been reading alot here to find a definite answer and I think this is the closest ive come to the same problem. My does it more on cold starts it will puff out the exhaust unless i give it a little throttle while I am cranking to start. Warm starts more when I leave the A/C on and dont touch the throttle I can get it to do it. It almost seams like I have 1 or 2 stuck open injectors due to the rough idle, smoke, and clatter that just started. I want to see If I can find a hot injector line but with the factory turbo air filter box is in the way you cant get to the lines to check them. When the wind is not blowing 30mph I want to take a video of a cold start and post it to see if the guys here can help. Original fuel system 140k, needs return line kit I know that, but should probably do injectors at the same time. Sorry not trying to hy-jack just thought we could help each other find the problem.

 

[90ididoorguy]

On start up while warm the manual says to put the pedal half throttle while starting. When its below 32 degrees you need to start with the pedal at full throttle. This sets the timing of the injection pump

 

[4x4manonbroke]

well mine does it the worst when you drive / warm it up ... and then shut it down for more that around 1 hr or so and tthen fire it up and bang studdering blue smoke ...etc... I think i just have one or two lazy injectors leeching fuel into cylinder when warm..... and now suddenly cold starts have extended crank time now also... was doing great ..... AAARRRGGGGG !!!!!!!!!

 

[Grass Hauler]

I dug into mine quite a bit today and found a few suspects. CDR is leaking quite a bit of oil into the intake and is mostly settling by the intake to turbo connection, hopefully explaining some of the smoke and 2 quarts it has used in 3500 miles. Also found 1 bad glow plug. Also hooked up a clear fuel line from pass front injector to fuel filter housing fuel return. Quite a bit of air at first then nothing even after a few shut offs and restarts, will continue to monitor since I left it on. Also I do have an electric fuel pump with makes a difference in pushing the air even with engine off key on. Pump was installed after these problems started so not the cause. I also ran it from almost cold and felt each injector line with one not noticeably hotter than the others. Also cracked each line as it was running and each seamed to react the same. The injector clatter was not there today as it comes and goes so I was not able to isolate the noise to one injector. Also put stethoscope on each injector and they all sound the same. I am ordering return line kit since they are leaking at the injector, CRD and a glow plug. Hope this info helps out 4x4manonbroke I know your looking for a fix but maybe we can get it figured out. PS wind is still blowing

 

[4x4manonbroke]

Ok so I have a box Truck tank in the bed of my truck it's 78 gallons total and 70 usable.... it was studdering like a babbling idiot and smoking and missing....... left work anbd thought huh.... i should try to see if the (factory rear) rear tanks does tghe same thing ???? well after about 15 min of driving she back to driving like a civilized bad ass truck again.... so ... I have air intrusion and its between the big front tank and the tank switch..... its not affecting the rear tank thats how I know its between tank and switch..... I have all new GATES Bio-Guard lines and I only buy fued at shelll ( because they run up to 5% bio) because she runs awesome on shell and like crap on #2 ulsd ....... I thinking I'm gonn eliminate the dang switch all to gether and use the big tanl like a gravity feed to fill rear tank and then get a new in tank sending unit .... then when the fuel guage drops then I know its time to fill er up....... gonna have to get a locking non-vented cap too......