Not looking to be swonked but..... (no, not selling the truck)

[icanfixall]

The dip stick is easy to fix.. I say this because I'm hoping its the tube with the o-ring on it and not the press in metal to metal type. Those really sux. The rear seal leakers could be because the vent breather line is plugged up. Thats easy to determine whats going on. The oil leaking out of the motor but the oil level stays the same tells me its a fuel leak washing off some caked on oil somewhere on the block. A dirty motor that gets a diesel wash makes the driveway look like a Exon Valdes oil slick. You or the collective can fix whats wrong easily. Giving up now is not an option. Get the help you need and fix it... Please....

 

[GenLightening]

The dipstick tube, I can clean it off and WATCH the oil leak out of there..... No WMO, not much smoke out of the exhaust and there is no fuel in the oil

Is it leaking out where the tube connects to the block or out the top of the tube?

 

[BigRigTech]

Worst case you can buy a used IDI for $500 and swap it in....Still much cheaper than a P.O.S Dodge even if it does have a Cummins...Maintained or not the Drudge will still require work like any other used vehicle...From the sounds of it your truck needs minor attention. Have you done a compresson test on it?

 

[4x4TruckinGirl]

No compression test done. The oil is leaking from the the tube connects to the block. i cant drive the truck theres so much oil departing. its not fuel leaking down and off either. the top of the motor is dry. I will get it fixed, i just cant do it myself. We tried to replace the o ring, and it still leaks. Now the other day I had to add 4 quarts of oil to the truck, but i havent driven it since then.....

 

[icanfixall]

Sam.... About the dip stick tube o-ring.... I don't use them. I use brake cleaner to get everything clean and dry. Then I smear some permatex copper plus rtv on the tube and push it in. I use enough so that I get plenty on the block area and it never leaks. Just let it dry overnite and it will seal. Its just that easy. You can use a helper to drop it down while you are under the truck guiding it in. No wise remarks guys... I'm talking serious stuff here. I find the o-ring usually a mess and its always flat kinda useless. Please give it a try just like I have explained. You wont fail that I'm sure of.

 

[DeepRoots]

sure its coming from the dipstick?
Manual lift pumps will do that too if the gasket is shot.

 

[RLDSL]

Do like Gary says and go with the silicone around the dipstick. if you try to buy ford, the oring they'll sell you is too big and will roll up and not seal. the only one that works comes in the aftermarket gasket kits, don't know about International, couldn't get the local dealer to come up with one.

That road draft tube is probably what is causing the problem. those things only function if installed just right, that would be in the path of a road draft. if the bottom of the tube is not hanging down below the lowest point of the truck being held rigid, with the tube cut at a 90 deg angle, the air passing across it at speed will not create the required
"road draft" needed to scavange crankcase gasses from the crankcase and you will buildup excess crankcase gas pressure and blow oil out of every seal and orifice on the engine.

 

[4x4TruckinGirl]

Done the RTV and brake kleen..... 3 times now......


the RDT is below the lowest point, as mentioned i had the RDT on there..... for 3 weeks or better before this oil thing and had no issues at all..... and then whats with the crap oil pressure?

 

[RLDSL]

Done the RTV and brake kleen..... 3 times now......


the RDT is below the lowest point, as mentioned i had the RDT on there..... for 3 weeks or better before this oil thing and had no issues at all..... and then whats with the crap oil pressure?

You had the RDT on for 3 weeks, the hose was new, and stiff. you may need to go back and find a way to secure the thing to make sure that it's staying pointed straight down at speed and not getting blown back by the air pressure . After 3 weeks of hot oil vapour, that hose is now pretty soft and squishy.

Without having put a mechanical gauge on the thing you really don't know if you have an oil pressure problem yet. most likely it's just a bum sending unit or a loose wire. That's why you need to check it with a mechanical gauge. you can pick up a cheap gauge at the local parts store and rig it for testing

 

[Diezel_Cowboy]

First of all try this stuff on the oil fill tube:

http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(uk05fum5oif04k55lrdjp4mf))/Detail.aspx?R=BK_7651210_0229695449

It is not silicone but works better in my opinion.

Second I had a problem with oil pressure also. I replaced the sending unit and it was indeed the problem. It looks like this one, i dont remember the exact part number but this one is pretty close and may be the one you need. Only $9 too! I paid about $20 i think. As i said before use a thread sealant rather than teflon tape because the cast piece it screws into is cast and will break if you over tighten the sensor. Here is a link to sensor:

http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(...683_0167729581&An=599001+101994+50028+2028036


Someone already mentioned it but i will say again that the leaking rear seals could very well be caused by a clogged axel breather. I had this same exact problem with my orange truck. Just take the rubber hose off and make sure it is cleared out and then make sure the brass fitting is clear as well. We used a drill to open mine up even though this method would result in possible contaminants falling into the axel housing. It solved the problem though with the leaking rear seals. I never noticed them leaking again. It is amazing sometimes how something so small can seem like a big problem especially when a bunch of small things happen at once.

Far as the power window motors I have replaced them as well. It requires taking the interior panel off the door and drilling a hole which is premarked at the factory (dunno why they didnt drill it at the factory). You just unbolt the old motor and bolt in the new one after that.

As far as the RDT that thing doesnt matter as long as the line is clear of clogs. It is just a crackcase vent and can be vented anywhere! You could vent it up over the cab if you wanted too as long as the oil that condenses on the tube can drain back without causing clogs.

I feel for you because i hate working on the truck when it needs something, I prefer adding accessories instead.
I always try to tell myself that some dummy put this thing together so I ought to be able to fix it. Hang in there!

 

[Diesel_brad]

i would buy the dodge as a driver while you fix yours. Or buy it for powerplant swap for yours if the idi is not enough power for you but i wouldnt spend more than 3k per your description

 

[BigRigTech]

I have a 94 2500 Dodge 4x4 coming on a wrecker this week....Buddy paid $3000 for it with 455,000KM on te clock - decent body but not running, it had a reman P-pump still in the bag on the drivers seat. Personally I wouldn't have paid more than $1500-2k for it. He can't get it to start and has had enough so he's bringing it to me to try and get it started..By the sounds of what they did they have it timed right but I'll still check it.

 

[4x4TruckinGirl]

Well thats a 94 he paid 3k for...... this is a 97 that I'm gunna get for less than 2k, so like everyone said at least drive it daily, and get the grey truck running right.... the motor in that grey truck is good runnin, Don't want to kill it over some stupid oil leak from the dipstick and blow it up........ i'd be mad as all git out then...... lol

 

[BigRigTech]

To me it sounds like you issues with your IDI are quite simple, if you can find a decent tech close by to operate on ityour back on the road for cheap! ...

 

[NapaBavarian]

cummins...5 speed, 4x4...

Let me go cry...the perfect replacement for my 460.