Not-Charging Frustration

The_Josh_Bear

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2016
Posts
1,932
Reaction score
1,513
Location
Western WA
Forgot to mention, Stick Witch, that, while running and not charging, the alternator warning light did NOT come on.
I've heard of alts not charging if that bulb in the dash burns out, too. Something to keep in mind I reckon.
Easy way to test is: Key On Ignition Off, you should have a small Christmas tree of lights, one will say BATT maybe a picture of a battery, I can't remember. If not, bulb is out or circuit is disturbed. Guess we forgot that little tidbit in the early stages of diagnosis...
 

Cubey

Van dweller
Joined
Oct 18, 2017
Posts
4,120
Reaction score
1,616
Location
USA
Passenger side has very little room, due to the heat flap-box. That side gets an uncommon group 50, which is very narrow. Only 600 CCA. Fortunately, my part of the world only gets around freezing may be two weeks out of the year, and the block heater works great.

Eww. Shame on Ford for doing that. 91 vans and older can fit a 65 there.

You must be registered for see images attach


O'Reilly is selling an economy 50: https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...-economy-battery-group-size-50/50ecoj/4742709
 
Last edited:

laserjock

Almost there...
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2012
Posts
8,841
Reaction score
3,130
Location
Maryland
The Warning bulb being bad in the OBS trucks can cause a no charge issue right? I have no clue on a van. I lost track. Did you hot wire the alternator and see it charge?
 

idi_econoline

No Bed For Me!
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Posts
928
Reaction score
32
Location
Northern California
Work's been rough this week, so, finally got it all back together, just now.

NO CHARGE!

Back to Stick Witch's advice: replace the wiring!

Well, at least the small wiring -- the fat red output wire should be fine. Have already proven that no charge is coming out at the output terminal to the red wire.

Just. Wow. :(
 

idi_econoline

No Bed For Me!
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Posts
928
Reaction score
32
Location
Northern California
I've heard of alts not charging if that bulb in the dash burns out, too. Something to keep in mind I reckon.
Easy way to test is: Key On Ignition Off, you should have a small Christmas tree of lights, one will say BATT maybe a picture of a battery, I can't remember. If not, bulb is out or circuit is disturbed. Guess we forgot that little tidbit in the early stages of diagnosis...

Didn't pay attention to the light before start The light wasn't on before; the light (pic of battery and the word "AMP") now comes on and GOES OUT once the engine is started, as if the alternator is charging. Think I'll recheck output at alternator terminal one more time before disassembling, again.

Dunno. :mad:
 

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,347
Reaction score
11,078
Location
edmond, ks
Think I'll recheck output at alternator terminal one more time before disassembling, again.
Maybe use two or three different methods of testing. One may not be working right. Seladoor had this problem with his alternator. It was his DVOM.
 

idi_econoline

No Bed For Me!
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Posts
928
Reaction score
32
Location
Northern California
Please convince me that I need to replace the wiring, Stick Witch.

Green wire good continuity, from alternator connector to plug next to battery.

White wire continuity good from connector to connector.

Yellow wire continuity good to solenoid.

Alternator connector new last weekend.

Alternator tested good at O'Reilly's, 15v, on 3 tests. AND a reman replacement; same symptoms as old alternator (should've tested it)

Both batteries replaced; both load test fine.

Again, using DVOM and load tester's gauge to check voltage.

What am I missing, that I'm getting no charge, and it happened suddenly, after sitting for two weeks?

AND the dash volt gauge reads low, though voltage to cluster same as batteries, at fuse panel.

Feeling very lost.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

stick_witch

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2020
Posts
151
Reaction score
89
Location
Homer, Alaska
Please convince me that I need to replace the wiring, Stick Witch.

Green wire good continuity, from alternator connector to plug next to battery.

White wire continuity good from connector to connector.

Yellow wire continuity good to solenoid.

Alternator connector new last weekend.

Alternator tested good at O'Reilly's, 15v, on 3 tests. AND a reman replacement; same symptoms as old alternator (should've tested it)

Both batteries replaced; both load test fine.

Again, using DVOM and load tester's gauge to check voltage.

What am I missing, that I'm getting no charge, and it happened suddenly, after sitting for two weeks?

AND the dash volt gauge reads low, though voltage to cluster same as batteries, at fuse panel.

Feeling very lost.

You must be registered for see images attach
Sorry, I’ve had a busy week. Did you ever check the battery light on the dash? Not the voltage gauge but the actual battery light? If the truck is running and the green wire is connected properly and theres no charge to the batteries then that battery light should be coming on in the dash. Its my understanding that the light excites the alternator and without that light circuit it won’t do that. Easy way to check if the light works is that when you turn the ignition all the warning lights in the dash should come on and you should see a red battery light, if you don’t then thats a problem. Also check your continuity from the green wire up to the dash light.

I doubt your troubles are at the 3 prong pigtail if you replaced it and connected it all properly which it looks like you did. Again, don’t go by color, go by the “a s i” stamped on the alt case. Im guessing your issues are either that green wire to dash light, or at the solenoid to battery connection. Please send a picture of your new solenoid with everything connected.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

idi_econoline

No Bed For Me!
Joined
Mar 8, 2012
Posts
928
Reaction score
32
Location
Northern California
Tried to make this somewhat vertical. Maybe only 3 inches between solenoid and the group 65! I could remove battery for a better shot, if that helps.
You must be registered for see images attach
 

stick_witch

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2020
Posts
151
Reaction score
89
Location
Homer, Alaska
Tried to make this somewhat vertical. Maybe only 3 inches between solenoid and the group 65! I could remove battery for a better shot, if that helps.
You must be registered for see images attach
Okay, I don’t see your 6 gauge battery hot connection from the battery to the hot post of the solenoid. I think I see it coming out of the loom next to your 4 gauge alt output (it’s the slightly smaller red wire). I can’t see where it’s connected on either ends, but nonetheless I don’t see a battery connection on the post with your alternator, which equals no charge to the batteries.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

stick_witch

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 23, 2020
Posts
151
Reaction score
89
Location
Homer, Alaska
Here’s a picture of my truck. There should be that yellow wire, the black and orange wire, your alt output wire, and the red, 6 gauge connection to your battery positive in the black loom.
You must be registered for see images attach

I see the yellow wire, the black and orange wire, and the alt output wire on yours, but no battery connection. This would explain a lot, because its totally possible that you have a hot wire supplying enough power to the solenoid that it will power the trigger wire and IP to start the truck, but once its started, theres nowhere for the alt output to go in order to charge the batteries, which explains why you have no charge to the batteries at all.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Forum statistics

Threads
91,304
Posts
1,129,983
Members
24,111
Latest member
Lance

Members online

Top