Not-Charging Frustration
- Thread starter idi_econoline
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They made v belt versions For some of the MD trucks. Mine was for a tall deck 429. You can also swap your 1 g pulley if you use a shim approximately the thickness of the cooling fan from the 1g. Discard the fan obviously.
idi_econoline
No Bed For Me!
Well, took the alt back to the store. Three runs on their test jig = 15 volts each time. Yep, quite possible that the "core" I turned in was just fine. 
So, back to the wiring. <hangs head>
Young fella at the store said he'd seen this before when a battery was weak. Said it was the fusible link on the yellow/white sensor wire. But, but... thought I had continuity on that wire!
Back to the multimeter.....
So, back to the wiring. <hangs head>
Young fella at the store said he'd seen this before when a battery was weak. Said it was the fusible link on the yellow/white sensor wire. But, but... thought I had continuity on that wire!
Back to the multimeter.....
stick_witch
Full Access Member
Oooff... yeah follow the pigtail wires and the single stator wire and look for continuity. Also, does it have a megafuse between the output to the battery? It should, if so its worth it to check that if it literally is not producing a charge at all. Check the connections on the megafuse block as well.Well, took the alt back to the store. Three runs on their test jig = 15 volts each time. Yep, quite possible that the "core" I turned in was just fine.
So, back to the wiring. <hangs head>
Young fella at the store said he'd seen this before when a battery was weak. Said it was the fusible link on the yellow/white sensor wire. But, but... thought I had continuity on that wire!
Back to the multimeter.....
Also, what batteries are you running in your rig and whats their CA ratings?
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Well, took the alt back to the store. Three runs on their test jig = 15 volts each time. Yep, quite possible that the "core" I turned in was just fine.
Live and learn. Have them test the alternator before buying a new one next time.
When the alt went out in my F250, their crappy remote tester they bring outside said my voltage regulator was bad. It did the same for a 78 Dodge years ago, but I was a dork and just replaced that first, no luck. Then I pulled the alternator out and carried it inside. This was the result:
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Oh well, the truck got a new alt + reg and it cost me nothing in labor since I worked on it in the parking lot. They had an electrical outlet that I was able to use for my electric impact gun for the pulley nut since I had to swap the pulley. I carry the old regulator as an spare. I should probably carry the newer one in the RV as a spare since the truck is getting parked and insurance dropped again within the next week or so since I'm hoping to leave in the RV the next few weeks.
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There is a really good reason I eliminated all my fusible links. I struggled with an electrical issue for weeks. I’d check the circuits and they would test fine. Try to use the circuits and I’d come up with like 6v on the circuit. The fusible link was together by a few strands and when load was applied the voltage dropped. Checking with the meter with no loads it showed 12v.
I scratched my head over that one a while before I finally figured it out.
I scratched my head over that one a while before I finally figured it out.
idi_econoline
No Bed For Me!
Eureka! Yes, the continuity on the w/y sensor wire is good, but.... continuity of the 12v output from the alt to the solenoid is a no-go.
Gotta be the fusible in the alternator cable. Guessing I'll need to undo the loom to find the link? Which end would be the likely location of it?
Still, over 11 years of owning this beast, I'm still learning. Think I'll re-wire and upgrade to a 175 mega sometime soon.
Gotta be the fusible in the alternator cable. Guessing I'll need to undo the loom to find the link? Which end would be the likely location of it?
Still, over 11 years of owning this beast, I'm still learning. Think I'll re-wire and upgrade to a 175 mega sometime soon.
stick_witch
Full Access Member
Ah yeppp, thats what I was thinking. Glad you found it!
So yup, just cut the electrical tape covering on the outside of the loom (be cautious not to cut too deep!), then just pull all the wiring out of the loom. You should have wires going to your alternator, injection pump and your temp and rpm sensors in that loom.
Then disconnect your output wire from the B+ post on your alternator (may need to take your alternator off partially for this), take your wires off the hot end of your solenoid, and then follow both ends of the output wire to your fuse which should be mounted to the chassis somewhere, take the screws out and then just rip it all out completely.
Then, yeah, I’d recommend not trying to reuse the old wire and fuse and just go ahead do yourself a favor and just upgrade to all new 4 awg wire, a megafuse block and a 175 mega, it only like $30ish, and then you’ll be golden!
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idi_econoline
No Bed For Me!
Realized I forgot to answer this question.... driver's side has the usual group 65 (I went for an 850CCA)
Passenger side has very little room, due to the heat flap-box. That side gets an uncommon group 50, which is very narrow. Only 600 CCA. Fortunately, my part of the world only gets around freezing may be two weeks out of the year, and the block heater works great.
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Walked into a local battery shop years ago, carrying an old 50, and the guy said : "van or boat?"
stick_witch
Full Access Member
Right on! Geezzz thats a narrow battery!
Did you ever get your alternator charging?
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Did you ever get your alternator charging?
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The_Josh_Bear
Full Access Member
Is that OE sizing? Never heard of different sizes under the hood, even in vans. On the contrary I've always heard *not* to mix batteries of different sizes, since one will generally poop out first and take the other one with it. Or at the very least leave you with a problem.
idi_econoline
No Bed For Me!
Um, er, well... Only because you asked.....
Somewhere in the process I actually DISCONNECTED the alternator output wire from the solenoid. Thought I was disconnecting the glowplug power wires, but, of course, THOSE would be the yellow wires!
Put the new 50 on a charger, and that's as far as I got. Tomorrow, we shall see.
idi_econoline
No Bed For Me!
Believe it or not, there is a factory steel tray under that 50. And, that 50 is SO much smaller than the 65.
The near-dead 65 didn't seem to kill the 50; it load tested fine. But I replaced them both, upon advice from you veterans. TYVM
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
It sure is. I'm sure that it's longer, but it looks as narrow as the one that was in my 1975 Mustang II with a 302 in it.
idi_econoline
No Bed For Me!
Um, er, well... Only because you asked.....
Somewhere in the process I actually DISCONNECTED the alternator output wire from the solenoid. Thought I was disconnecting the glowplug power wires, but, of course, THOSE would be the yellow wires!
Put the new 50 on a charger, and that's as far as I got. Tomorrow, we shall see.
Realized (half-asleep) I probably confused y'all:
When I realized that I'd disconnected the red/black alternator wire from the solenoid, I tested it, and it's only a few ohms end-to-end. So, staying with it for now. Will look to upgrade to new #4 and mega soon. However, since it's only running on one v-belt, it won't be anywhere near 130, so I think a 125 fuse will be fine.
Since everything else checks out, I think I'll include the 3-pin alternator connector in my next RockAuto order. Never hurts to keep parts at the ready, especially an inexpensive one!
