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renjaminfrankln

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What am I looking at here... starter solenoid, glow plug solenoid, and glow plug controller? Which is which. The orange wire goes back to the steering column and attaches to the red/white wire. The burned out wire in the wiring harness pics is probably that wire.

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renjaminfrankln

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Leak here on top of the IP at the connection.. is this a return i'm guessing? Looks like the leak is at the connection. Best way to fix? Im guessing I will start by tightening it ha..

And one of the injectors is leaking, probably at the return. The injector and return look new, i'm guessing the return never seated properly. How would you start with this.. loosen the injector line then try and wiggle the return down into the injector more? Or just take that return off and replace it altogether.

Note, the injector leaking is the one in the middle of the pic. The hose that is in the way blocks the view of a wet junction between the injector line nut and the top of the return plastic fitting.

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renjaminfrankln

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So the "oil leak" is power steering fluid. There is hardly any oil leaking. The funny steering was because the thing was out of power steering fluid. Overall I think that is good news.

Its hard to tell where it is coming from with everything so dirty. I ordered a new pressure line because it was about $12 from rock auto so we'll start there. By the way, is the return hard line with all the bends ford's idea of a power steering cooler?

Another question - How can I tell what capacity fuel tanks I have on this thing. The sender on the rear is shot (reads empty all the time), and I have no idea how accurate the front sender is.
 

bbjordan

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Nice truck!

Hope this helps:
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You might want to do a 3G alternator upgrade and get rid of the old voltage regulator. It was one of the best upgrades I have done to my '86.
 

chillman88

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is the return hard line with all the bends ford's idea of a power steering cooler?

Another question - How can I tell what capacity fuel tanks I have on this thing. The sender on the rear is shot (reads empty all the time), and I have no idea how accurate the front sender is.

Yes thats the cooler.

My leak was many different things. The main one being the gearbox itself.

Check the wiring for the sending unit before you go replacing it, might be a simple fix.
 

IDIBRONCO

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The leak on top of your injector pump is at the return. You may be able to get it to stop by tightening the nut a little bit, but don't overtighten it and strip something. Most likely, the "olive" inside there has detioriated to the point that it needs to be replaced. The size is 3/8". Your injector return leak could be the o-rings underneath the plastic cap or the cap itself. If everything there is new, you may be able to remove just that cap and install new o-rings. If the return lines aren't pretty new, you'll usually get another leak on one or more of the other injectors because you've disturbed the o-rings. Id this happens, you may just want to buy a return line kit such as the one the Conestoga Diesel sells that comes with new caps too. You'll have to know what size of lines you have. with your setup, they are 3/16".
 

renjaminfrankln

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Nice truck!

Hope this helps:
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You might want to do a 3G alternator upgrade and get rid of the old voltage regulator. It was one of the best upgrades I have done to my '86.
\


Thanks for taking the time to help. I will post a pic of the alternator, it may be the 3G and that voltage regulator is not hooked up. Is there a glow plug controller somewhere?\
 

bbjordan

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The glow plug controller is at the back of the driver's side head. It's a light grey cylindrical thing with a 6 pin connector on top.
It is not uncommon for them to fail in the closed position and burn out all your glow plugs.

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renjaminfrankln

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The glow plug controller is at the back of the driver's side head. It's a light grey cylindrical thing with a 6 pin connector on top.
It is not uncommon for them to fail in the closed position and burn out all your glow plugs.

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Thanks.. How can I check that it works right? Also, would it work to just wire the glow plugs straight to a switch with a flip protective cover. I am the only one who drives the truck and i'd trust myself not to burn them out :)
 

renjaminfrankln

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Another issue. When going over small bumps I get a squeak noise from under the cab. Sounds like its coming from under both driver and pass side doors, just behind the seating position. It will also do it when you turn off the truck and get that last big vibration when the engine shuts down.

I think it may be the transmission mount. Looks pretty shot, i'll post a pic of it. I doused it with WD-40 to see if the squeak stopped, no dice so i'm not sure. Is this squeak a common problem that one of you has already encountered?
 

renjaminfrankln

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I bet that’s your cab mounts squeaking

I was thinking that as well, because it seems like its coming from one side or the other. I'm guessing the rubber has compressed over the years and the bolt is no longer tight. I'll squirt them with WD40 tomorrow and see what happens.

I believe I need to add some coolant. The recovery tank is about 1/4 full but the coolant is below the top of the inside passages in the radiator with the engine cold, with it warm (not hot) the coolant is slightly above them. Is this a normal level? I plan to fill it up tonight and see what gets spit out into the tank. I have the factory gauge which does appear to work and the truck runs a bit warm. Light driving around town it reads right in the middle. On the highway at 60mph on a 90F day it creeps up a bit closer to the edge of the "normal" range on the factory gauge, but still stays well within that range. Turn on the A/C and it gets noticably hotter.

The coolant in the truck is Peak Final Charge. It is fresh and the mfg claims that no SCA's needed. Anyone know if this is true.
 
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renjaminfrankln

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Alternator -

Looks like it might have been upgraded. Is this the 3G model.

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