New IDI owner

renjaminfrankln

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Hey guys

I made a deal today on a 6.9 IDI 4x4 with a C6 transmission. Pick it up later this week. If that falls through for some reason I am still in the market for an IDI truck.

I need something for mostly around-town use. I used to have an eco-boost F150 and a 8,000lb boat but those days are over, I have a budget of around 4k for a truck that can haul light loads and trailers around, plus the occasional 5-6,000lb load when I rent a piece of equipment or am pulling a tractor around (not often).

Anyway I have been doing a lot of homework and I think the IDI is perfect for what I want to do. I like fixing up old things and I have always wanted to own a diesel truck. It also seems smart from a practical standpoint. Any truck in my budget would be at least 20 years old and chasing down electrical gremlins and dealing with sensors/ecu's on an older gas vehicle is probably going to cause me more headache than the simple and reliable mechanical injection on these engines.

Couple questions -

I could not find a completely rust-free truck. The one I have a handshake deal on has some very minor rust in the rear panels right above the rear wheels. I'd like to fix that and prep the truck for a cheap Maaco paint job. This looks like a common rust spot for these trucks, wondering if anyone has tips for me. I figure I could grind the rust out, tack in some sheet metal behind the existing panel and then use bondo to fair it with the existing panels.

Steering slop - The truck has quite a bit of it. While I know that is normal for these older vehicles to develop, I don't mind replacing a pittman arm or tie rod. I haven't had a chance to find out where it is coming from, are there some common wear spots and are there any tutorials or threads on fixing these?

I'm sure i'll be back with more questions. There are a couple other minor issues with the truck but I think I have a handle on fixing them from reading the tech threads here.
 

chillman88

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F250 or F350?

250 will be twin torsion beam. Very likely the axle pivot bushings are shot. If not it'll likely be ball joints or tie rods.

350 will be solid axle. Check ball joints and tie rods first.
 

IDIBRONCO

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This truck should work fine for what you want to do with it unless you're trying to win stop light to stop light drag races with it. These engines are stupid simple and are extremely reliable once the fuel system is in good shape. Of course you already know that a 30 year old vehicle will need some mechanical work. That's just part of the deal. If you don't want to do work, buy a newer one that probably won't make the 20 year mark without all the plastic falling apart. Most of us on here don't mind a little work now and then in order to keep our treasures alive and running strong.
 

renjaminfrankln

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Thanks. Its an F250.

Yeah I don't mind a little work. I'm also looking forward to working on something different. My last old truck was a pre-vortec K2500 suburban with the 5.7. I put shocks on it, new steering, tires, brakes, rebuilt the TBI, igniton, chip (yes a chip, it actually helped) god knows what else. I burned through the exhaust manifold gaskets towing with it.

By the way, what do we think of the C6. I'd love a manual transmission but I just have not been able to find one that runs good with a decent body.

Here is my old K2500 suburban. I almost tried contacting the guy I sold it to to see if he wanted to sell it back to me. But I really wanted a diesel... and the IDI seems much more reliable than the GM diesels of this era and in my budget.

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Thewespaul

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C6 is a pretty bullet proof trans if kept cool, but only 3 gears and no lockup can be tough on the highway
 

IDIBRONCO

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As long as you keep fluid in it, a C6 is a good transmission. Due to the built in slip, they aren't great for highway driving or good fuel mileage, but for around town, it will be fine. Think along the lines of a Turbo 400 for a GM comparison..
 

renjaminfrankln

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C6 is a pretty bullet proof trans if kept cool, but only 3 gears and no lockup can be tough on the highway

That is one thing I have not seen much about. Have any links to a trans cooler/temp gauge install?

Also are there any good, easy to install aftermarket shift kits that would be worth the effort. I've installed a few transgo kits through the pan into other vehicles.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I'd bet that there is still a bunch of shift kits for these. they were the "go to" transmission for quite a while in the gasser world. I'd still like to have one for my F150 now.
 

Thewespaul

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Haha well it’s a bit overkill for a C6, but in my climate can’t have too much cooling ability
 

renjaminfrankln

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Got the truck today. Some good stuff, some bad. The good, the IP is very new looking and the injectors, injector lines and the fuel return lines are all new. The mechanical pump is new. The engine purrs. New radiator and hoses.

Exhaust has been cut off and I have some work to do there. Its loud. The Y pipe behind the heads might be rotten, lot of noise from that area. Any source for a replacement? I haven't had a good chance to look at it yet.

Quite a lot of oil leaking. No way to tell where until I get it cleaned up. The previous owner said its from "everywhere".

The steering feels tight, too tight. I can feel a little pump vibration when turning the wheel (through the wheel) and the steering does not want to return to center. I asked if the steering box had been adjusted, why yes it has! I need to loosen it... any info on where the adjuster is? I assume this is standard, lock nut and an adjustment. I also assume - screw out to loosen the gear mesh. Correct? I have done this on GM vehicles but not a ford. I plan to look at this tonight, I dont want to F up the steering box by running it with the adjustment too tight

The front leafs look pretty worn out, the axle sits about 3/4" below the bump stops when parked on a level parking lot. Best source for new leafs, and any tutorials on replacing them? I would guess the axle twists them a bit when unloaded unlike a solid axle, so that might complicate things.
 

IDIBRONCO

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Overall, I'd say that you got a good deal. It sounds like it's in fairly good mechanical shape. You're right on the steering box adjustment. Just a flat tip screwdriver and a 5/8" (I think) wrench. Oil leaks can look horrible and then, after you clean it off, you think "That's it?' It doesn't always happen that way, but sometimes it does.
 

Thewespaul

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Usually the "everywhere" oil leaks are valve covers, oil from the top runs down the intake and drips down to the starter, and the bottom leaks down through the manifolds and onto the ground from the crossmember. I would feel the tabs on the gasket and if its hard at all replace it.
 
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