New Here 1994 Ford Turbo F-350 IDI CC Dually Auto 170K 2wd

runkeeg26

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Hello I am new to the forums. I love all the information I picked up off you guys already. I did have a couple questions though.
1) When replacing a block heater, what fluid do i have to drain (oil, antifreeze), do i have to drain any fluid?
2) I believe i have factory cruise (never know if its just the steering wheel that was replaced) but nothing happens when I try to turn it on. Is there any way to trouble shoot things in a row till i find whats wrong.
3) In my picture i have a custom intake i just did today with a hack saw and a 4" u pipe. Would a 6637 sideways work better?
4) Where can i get polyurethane bushings ford this truck instead of rubber ones that really are for this truck (Auto Zone and the rest have given me a million that don't really fit)
5) I run 60 MPH at 2k rpm what rear end would that be?

Quick story: I bought this truck in Oregon. The next day me and my wife started our drive across the country to Jacksonville NC. Pulling my wife's little SUV and everything we owned with 3 mutts (estimated weight 8,000lbs). It made it over every hill on I-80 in January, with no problem. If it down shifted i would start to re accelerate on the hills until i hit 60 again and OD kicked in. We made it 4,000 miles in 3 days (driving all night and day). At one timed i estimated that i hadn't shut her off in over 24 hours. I have never driven a vehicle like that. I love the power! I drive like an older man and every car including the grandparents in the Cadillac's will pass me off the line. But i love that my truck will make it 2 or 300,000 miles past their's. We made it within 30 miles of our new home and the idler pulley vanished (plastic) 4 auto shops later after returning the wrong one 3 times and she fired right up and took off like nothing happened. I think that pretty good for literally having her for 1 day. Since being here i have been trying to maintain and renew as funds allow. Not looking for coal or smoking tires just MPG and longevity. I have done rear diff oil, cabin lights, oil, filter, idler pulley, belt, and a good wash. There is not a spot of rust on this entire vehicle frame and all! I hope to continue to learn more from you guys! And any suggestions on what i should do, need to look out for just tell me and i will get on it. (already know about cavitation) Thanks again guys! Anyone who could answer some questions will be more then appreciated.

Joe
 

icanfixall

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Welcome to the forum. Your truck probably has a set of 4.10 gears. Thats generally how they came from the factory unless someone special ordered a differant set. Look on the drivers door post for a factory tab. Post what the number is telling you what the gears are. Hopefully nobody changed them and didn't make a comment anywhere. Also there is a tab in the differancial telling you what gears are in it. If you stiil are running the stock down pipe off the turbo changing that for a better breathing one will improve the hp. Also removing the muffler will help too... These turbos kill lots of exhaust noise but you will hear the sound when the engine is working hard. Then all engines sound louder.
LMC is the shop that sells most anything you need for these trucks.
 

alienturtle

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Energy Suspension has all the poly bushing for those trucks. You can order the kits from summitracing.com Energy has anything from leaf spring bushings to body mount kits and they are at a reasonably price as well. Just go onto energy suspensions website and look at the catalog. Get the part number you need and type it into summitracing.com search.. Should pop right up. Im running the leaf spring bushings with no issues. Good luck and welcome
 

runkeeg26

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Thanks guys will definitely look into that stuff! From my quick look on google its exactly what i was looking for. I already have banks down pipe for the truck and should get it on in the next month or two. Already hacked off the muffler to, love the sound of it now! What kind of labor is it to change out the gears for a set of 3.55's? I can get on base here at Camp Lejeune and they have their own auto shop with about every tool ever with all the hoists and everything for practically free. Do I have to remove the axle to change out the gears?
 

icanfixall

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Both axles needs to be withdrawn from the housing. Then drop the drive shaft. Now open up the rear cover and remove the gears and pinnion. Going back together is tuffer because of the gear ro gear mesh and preload on the bearings. I'm no specialest on this and have never done it on our trucks. Did open up the wifeys jag xj12 differantial once...:eek: Talk about a load o crap just getting close to that mess... Gees... Never again....
 

runkeeg26

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Haha I will remember to not open one up if i ever get one. I am looking at diesel Jeep Liberty's for the wife right now. Anyone know if they are any good? I will try to find a video somewhere explaining it. I find i learn best that way. Thanks for the information though! Appreciate that!
 

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