Need ideas on oil cooler

[Wvdirtroad]

In the process of reinstalling the oil cooler. I put everything back on and cranked the bolts down on the front header and its pouring coolant when I start to fill. So took it off and got a new gasket, put sealer on the side opposite the raised factory sealer edge on the felpro gasket... Back together and same issue but worse. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? I've about had it for the day..

 

[icanfixall]

Well I can't see where the coolant is leaking from so please explain. I understand replacing the header to block gasket twice. But it continues to leak. So I'm thinking you damaged either the header or the o rings in the bundle end. Please explain how and why you took off the cooler. then we can track what the issue is.

 

[IDIoit]

pictures are worth a million words.
are these the new headers?

 

[Wvdirtroad]

I'll see if I can snap a couple once I get the kids settled. It's seeping on two different front headers. Switched both and check rings both time. There's no seepage from around the bundle ending on the tube.

It's seeping around the front header to block seal when full tightened. Enough that it drips steadily(almost a stream). I've tried to different felpro gaskets for the oil header. One with sealing on the header facing side of the gasket, one with no extra sealer at all. Both tries were tightened down tight. I cleaned all old gasket off the header and the block. Cleaned both with brake cleaner and paper towels and made sure both were dry at assembly. There was no oil etc present when installing. I'm not sure where I'm going wrong. I took it back off and cleaned everything up again and reinstalled this time with additional gasket sealer to both sides to see if that maybe does the trick. Waiting on it to dry.

 

[icanfixall]

Sadly you need to remove the cooler again. This time use a 12 inch smooth file on the aluminum header seal flange that the gasket sees. Also look closely for a crack. I know a member that called me asking what one piece of his header would not come off the block. I told him there are 4 bolts holding it to the block. He said nope.. I only found 3..... So I had him clean off some oily dirt.. Yeap.. Found a "hidden bolt" under goobs of dirt and oil. If it wont move do not get a bigger pry bar....

 

[Wvdirtroad]

Okay oil cooler is back off the truck. Third time show fully a charm. Have to track down gaskets in the morning.. One question on the header... D o I just file it down lightly and try to get it at close as possible? I was skeptical the first time around because I was afraid to mess it up and make something uneven. Also, is there a trick to tightening the bolt? I'm not sure if over tightening could be the issue.

 

[Andertusa]

I'm not sure if over tightening could be the issue.

I can't really make commentary for the other guys, but in my experience, 'over-tightening' can ALWAYS be a problem, I've snapped the heads off 1/2 in shank grade 5 bolts with a combination wrench and didn't think I was being 'too hard', so maybe. . . .

 

[riotwarrior]

Sand wjth fine emery on good flat plate or glass can sand entire surface so stays flat.

If...IF you are good with a file....big n flat it can be done...but damn u better be good...dont know how many holley carbs I have file but quite a few carb bodies to flatten out

 

[IDIoit]

the point of filing, sanding, or using a stone is to make sure things are flat.
no dings, no burrs
i myself like using a stone, a 1 x 2 x 6 stone for sharpening knifes.

you can also use a sander with about 80- 120 grit
as long as youre only trying to make it flat, shouldnt take more than a few seconds.

 

[icanfixall]

Using a honing stone is a great idea. A stationary belt sander is another good idea but you risk damaging the surface if sanded too much. Another idea is a flat block of wood and some 220 wet & dry paper. If you have some plate glass just apply the 220 paper to that and rub the seal surface a couple of times. then check it for high and low places. A mirror is the flattest glass you can find. Reason its flatter than glass is if it was wavy your reflection will be a mess. All your doing it knocking down a high spot.

 

[Wvdirtroad]

I'll give that a try. Going to pick up a sanding block and see how that does. Anyone know the torque specs for these bolts? I don't want to over tighten.

 

[Wvdirtroad]

I know the fronts are 9/16ths and the tears are 1/2's.

 

[OLDBULL8]

I know the fronts are 9/16ths and the tears are 1/2's.

That not right, both header bolts are 3/8", your talking wrench size, but 3/8' bolts take a 1/2" wrench. If the front header takes a 9/16" wrench, someone had to drill and tap for a different size.

When you tighten somethiing down, never tighten the first bolt, just snug it up, then cross snug next bolt and so on, then torque all in same pattern.

 

[TahoeTom]

The front header bolts are 3/8" and torque should be 24 ft-lb
The rear header bolts are 5/16" and torque should be 14 ft-lb

 

[Wvdirtroad]

They are definitely different size bolts between the front and the rear. Fronts take a 9/16's or 14mm socket and the rears are smaller and take a 1/2 or 13mm socket. I see my truck was built early in 89. Did they switch bolt sizes between that time and late 1989? I don't have the torque specs for these bolts. They are black and say LE on the heads.