My New All Alluminum Champion Radiator

Goofyexponent

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Well,I went out at 830 am and it's not 130 am.....rad and coolant changed, oil changed and she's greased.

The rad went in pretty well, not an EXACT fit, but close enough for me!!! I had to remove two of them factory mounting tabs (the one that the screws thread into) and wind in a couple 1/4" stainless bolts, washers and double nutted them on the top. My truck was involved in a front end collision before I got it, and I assume that's what caused the misalignment.

Other than that, its a 100% drop in piece. Looks REAL good and this one don't leak.

Now, about my factory radiator.....I don't know WHY iot wasn't replaced when the truck was in it's crash, but rather than replace it, the PO had about 50 tubes pinched off top and bottom, then covered over with solder. The upper tank was dented pretty badly, but just soldered up to not leak.....didn't work.....

I don't know how this thing was staying so cool with that rad the way it was :dunno

NOW, the only thing I got to ask....I pulled one block drain, but the other was seized in. I flushed the best I could but TOTALLY forgot the heater core...it was filled with green coolant. I dumped in about 3 gallons of CAT coolant (pink concentrate) and then 2.5 gallons of distilled water......but there was enough green crap left in there to turn it all green again.

Is this going to cause me issues? I plan on putting a coolant filter later on, but not for a little while. I could change it all out then, but what will it hurt?
 

Diesel_brad

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Goofy, I would of ran water in it for a day, drain it, run water for another day, drain and refill with your choice of coolant.

Is the CAT coolant ethylene glycol or polypropylene coolant. I know the green is ethylene glycol and does not play well with polypropylene
 

Goofyexponent

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I got 4 gallons of good coolant left over, I just need to buy 3 more gallons, do a COMPLETE flush and put the new stuff in......great!!!!!

Just gotta get my hands on some clean jugs......what will the mix of two coolants do for a week? Whould it hurt to leave it that long?
 

oldmisterbill

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Interesting -on the silla site the non aC radiator is $307 and the AC radiator is $261.
Yet the main difference is the more expensive one has a 1.8 inlet while the cheaper one has a 1.75 inlet .005 in. difference. And the non Ac one has a trans cooler while the ac one doesn't mention the trans cooler. Wouldn't it be l
more likley a truck with ac would have an auto trans then one with a stick? I just thought it was kinda odd.
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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Now, about my factory radiator.....I don't know WHY iot wasn't replaced when the truck was in it's crash, but rather than replace it, the PO had about 50 tubes pinched off top and bottom, then covered over with solder. The upper tank was dented pretty badly, but just soldered up to not leak.....didn't work.....

I don't know how this thing was staying so cool with that rad the way it was :dunno

because they are massive enough to keep you cool with a gross of upwards of 17k lbs.
so if you haven't been towing,it doesn't surprise me you had any issues.
a properly maintained 7.3l is extremely easy to keep cool.....a little too cool for my tastes actually,but a partial grill block should cure this.;)
 

Goofyexponent

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MIne runs at about 205*, but I sustect my gauge is a little off. Sometimes when the weather was hot and I was climbing hills with the cruise on, she would get up to 220* - 225* with the old rad.....now, no matter how long or how hard I push it, it won't rise over 207*
 

vegas39

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I cant find these Champion radiator clowns on ebay anymore, not that I would trust em after all this nonsense.
The only thing I see on there now is something for 188 bucks with free shipping, just seems like too good of a deal, might be a piece of *****. Anyone bought one of these yet?
I have been putting off changing mine out and have had it patched on the upper tank a few times but I got a feeling I'm gonna have to change it this summer.
 
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