jwalterus
Made in America
I used Ultra Blue, have used it for years, both on vehicles and around the base of my toilet 
Some of us have managed a complete oil pump in frame
Motorcraft parts
- Thread starter mackmack
- Start date
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
So far several members have posted what has worked very well for them. Follow this examples and you will not have any issues. you do need to know about getting the surfaces clean beyond compare. Most will tell you brakeclean is the best. It will not leave a film after it drys. This is true. Acetone works very well too but it must be used cautiously because it gets into our system and accumulates in our kidneys where it never leaves. Some like denatured alcohol. Just don't use gasoline. Its very dangerous and leaves a film. Nothing sticks to it either. Use a wire brush in the end corners where several pieces of the cover plates and the block come together. These are places you will have a leak if not really cleaned out. Use enough rtv to squeeze out but do not clean it off. Let it dry and later use a razor or exacto knife to cut off the rtv if you want a clean look. I just let it stay how it was when the pan went on. I'm not trying for a blue ribbon at the county fair. Before you do any other work please ask on this forum. No matter what you think up it has been asked many times and done so many times by this membership. I have no dought this forum has more experience than any Ford Dealer in any country. In fact I bet none of them even want to work on an idi engine these days.. Just no real money in working on them or the experience either.
compressionignitionrules
Full Access Member
lots of truth in this!
personally I worked at Ford "truck" dealers from 1988 until the Ford heavy trucks were sold off. had a lot of experience warranty and retail , on the idi 6.9/7.3 and was learning the 7.3 powerstroke. I'm sure I'm not the only one here with some dealer background.
I like brakeclean alcohol base as it leaves no residue, its about 3 dollars a can here. just make sure all your old silicone is gone before you go in with the cleaners.
I will dip and say...surgically clean....clean it....then clean it again...then clean it some more.....one has to ensure pan and block have ZERO oil on them.
For pans I sorta kinda use some sand paper to roughen the surface mildly 180 there bouts...for added bite.....after all the cleaning...sand...then clean once more.
Any residual oil will make it so the RTV when cured allows oil to wick past
Just my experiences and 7.3cw
For pans I sorta kinda use some sand paper to roughen the surface mildly 180 there bouts...for added bite.....after all the cleaning...sand...then clean once more.
Any residual oil will make it so the RTV when cured allows oil to wick past
Just my experiences and 7.3cw
Thanks for all your advice guys it is greatly appreciated. I'm going to use break clean. I will be sure to get it spotless . I will be sure to ask more questions in the future. There is a lot of info on here and most of you probably have much more experience with these motors then I do.
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Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk
yARIC008
Drives really slow
Some of us have managed a complete oil pump in frame
What in the world...???
As for the RTV... The technique of slathering it on, putting piece together hand tight, letting it cure for 1 hour then torquing down seems to be working really well for me lately. I couldnt get valve covers to seal until i did it that way.
homelessduck
Full Access Member
I've never done a pump in frame , but I have done the pan gasket. It can be done but it sure isn't fun.
jwalterus
Made in America
now there's an understatement
I chose to do it with 2 floor jacks and not use the cherry picker or anything to see if it could be done by people with minimal tools to boot, guess what, it can
f-two-fiddy
Registered User
Just did my 5.0 in frame. Defiantly not for the faint of heart. Much cussing and scraped knuckles.
I have some OEM seals and coolervparts fyi
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