Molasses Carnage Corrections

[crash-harris]

Here it is. Fuel pressure shows just under 4 psi at startup, but after it warmed up I was getting a steady 4.8-4.9 psi. Highest I observed was about 5.5 psi. And yes, I dropped the oil cap, but the belt caught it Notice all the blowby through the CDR? Should I be concerned about this? About was about the same when warm, but there's almost no blowby out of the filler neck after the engine has warmed up. Dunno if you can hear it, but there is still an occasional knocking sound from cylinder #2. Last week I made a stethoscope with about 5 feet of fuel line and part of a shotgun cleaning rod and didn't hear it via the valve cover or the head, but the block. It sounds intermittent. Could it be timing related?

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[crash-harris]

I'm really hoping it's timing related, but can anyone hear anything that sounds like a faint wrist pin rattle/slap? IF you can hear it, it's easier to hear the first time I stick the camera in the engine compartment. I may have to do a different video next week with it warmed up so it's easier to catch. I usually start to hear it after listening to the engine for a minute or so. It's really hard to pick it out over the rest of the diesel clatter.

 

[crash-harris]

Some more frustrating stuff today but still got some stuff done. Hung the core support and rad support brackets and got them coated in Permatex rust converter. I think the VHT rust converter does a better job. Even sprayed some on the rusty floor pans under the cab. Got a new nut and lock washer on the passenger side exhaust flange. No more exhaust leaks!

I went to start the truck and it took me a good 10-15 minutes to get her to fire up. I let it run until the cold idle kicked back off and the fuel pressure gauge never moved off 0 psi. Wiring is undisturbed from last time I was there (and installed the fuel pressure sender and gauge) so I'm assuming the fuel filter wasn't full. Didn't have any fuel at the schrader valve the entire time either. So I guess I've still got some air intrusion somewhere. Number 2 injector line was a little wet, so I guess I'll have to pull the line above it and tighten it down some more.

Also got the mounts made up for the Duralift pump and the coolant filter and got the damaged hood off (not easy when your short!). Decided I will run the coolant filter as a bypass filter between the 2 heater core hoses. There's just not enough room even after removing the unused A/C dryer. Less joints to leak as well as Al pointed out. Both drill batteries died before I finished the mount, so it'll get it finished up and painted tomorrow along with the core support. I started to freak out a little when I was reconnecting the fuel fittings to the inlet side of the fuel filter head and the hardline nut wouldn't turn. Normally wouldn't be a problem, but I was certain I used my last 1/4" npt male to female extension. But I managed to find one more buried in a bag of fittings when I got home.

Ok, pic time!

It's not really black yet, just the lighting. The VHT rust converter seemed to coat and blacken more of the rust than the Permatex.

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Lift pump bracket. Zip ties are just for mock up. My initial plan was to just mount it upright on the metal plate on to of the inner fender, but the pressure gauge contacted the hood just as it latched (the 2-3" before closing). This will work out well though. It lines up pretty prefect to both the incoming and out going lines/fittings on the filter head and I'll still be able to get the fuel bowl off without removing the pump.

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And the coolant filter mount. Had a hell of a time bending the thick bar stock with no torch or vise. Tried to heat it with the forced air heater, but couldn't hold it with channel locks and hit it wirth a hammer. Finally ended up clamping it to the tongue on my grandparents trailer with vise grips and wailing on it. Came out nice and straight. Bend radius even matches the bend on the fuel filter head bracket!

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More tomorrow. Not sure if I'll start pulling body panels tomorrow or track down this new air intrusion sitch.

 

[crash-harris]

I forgot to mention that I took the CDR off to check it out and yup, all the rubber has been baked. I think I'll run it until I get a catch can and get just the new drain tube and use a couple of hose barbs to run an RDT. I did clean up some more since I could get my hand behind the intake and found a random bolt and nut, a washer that was WAY too big for that bolt and half of an injector line clamp. Of course there were like 3 or 4 giant junks of baked together, oily crap.

 

[crash-harris]

Coolant filter head, bracket, core support and hardware are curing. Also curing is the rust converter on the underside of the doors, the door jams, and the freggin' roof! I pulled the visor off the cab and found rust under all mounting points. The 2 center screws right above the windshield made me extra sad. One was missing and had 3 or 4 cracks all the way around the hole in the sheet metal. The other one that didn't have a screw in it has a point size hole rusted in it. Looks like next week I'll be filling them in with quik steel. Whoever installed it did so with Phillips head screws that were pretty well rusted in place. I had to remove half of them with vise grips! Also got the Duralift bracket put together and test fitted the pump itself. Looks like a winner!

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Now they're actually black

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Best rattle can paint I've found. It costs the same as regular spray paint, coats well and has the added protection of being hear resistant. It's actually cheaper than engine enamel, which is rated for a lower temperature. I'm playing it safe.

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That's all the pics for today...and I just noticed that I dusted the screen on my phone case with rust converter

 

[crash-harris]

Barely even put in a couple of hours today. Fell in a bucket of flushed water and bloodied my elbow, then couldn't find the band clamps for the new heater hoses. I threw the towel in after that. Still, I got the coolant filter mounted. There's plenty of room to install/remove the filter and I got both valves angled they could be turned off and the hood would still close. Put 2 coats of flat black primer on the rust converter from yesterday on top of the cab and on the rocker panels/underside of the doors. Side note that i forgot to mention yesterday, I put the last brace on the mirrors and added the CB antenna mounts for later. Picked up hose clamps and quik steel on my way home. I'll be repairing a crack in the old lady's '02 Ranger radiator tank tomorrow. I swear I hate that thing. More trouble then either of my '90 trucks :rolleyes

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Obviously I still have some bare spots on the roof that need coated before they get the cancer. Going to pickup a rattle can of IH red to match those since they won't be covered by the visor.

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Coolant filter.

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[crash-harris]

RUST! Yes, lots of it. Got the front clip off today after 1 smashed finger and 2 that got ripped open. I accidently dropped the driver's side fender on the concrete and pulled all the hardware off it before removing the bashes and scrapped up the F-350 badge. Does anyone have a good 87-91 F-350 and XLT Lariat badge? I need one of each.

Also got the Duralift completely mounted, removed the mechanical lift pump, installed the block off plate and routed the new hose. Turns out the fuel hose I picked up is SAE J30R7 which I guess is obsolete for diesel Should I plan on getting some R9 or R10 soon?

Thermostat and Duralift wiring on the schedule for tomorrow along with painting bolts and speed clips. If I'm lucky I'll get the driver's side exhaust manifold tapped and the thermocouple for the pyro installed. Think I'm also going to go ahead and pull the cowl panel so it can get painted too.

Biggest reason why I needed to find a new narrow/tall radiator core support.

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Getting her stripped down.

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And as I left her. The hardline that runs up the back of the engine crossmember and over the front was very loose. I have a frame hose anchor I'm going to bolt it down with and use a frame rail clip to keep the rubber hose from it to the Duralift from flopping around and rubbing on anything.

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So being a rust belt truck, the bottom of the core support had the normal rust where the bottoms of the inner fenders bolt on (as in nothing left). When I pulled it off the mounts, the passenger side bolt/bushing/shims combo stayed in the core support and had to be cut out. I wanted to save the shims since all reports are that the poly bushings are too short. The driver side combo stayed in the mount. I had to cut through the threaded cap that the core support sits on and part of the bushing (rusted welded to the bolt). Then I had to wail on the stud with a hammer until the cap broke apart and shot through the mount. Coated then with rust converter so they don't rot out as well.

 

[crash-harris]

More work, less pictures today. Replaced the thermostat, oiled the vacuum pump with air tool oil, painted the under hood sheet metal (that bolts to the fenders), secured the fuel line, wired up the Duralift and filled in the holes above the windshield. Oh, and I cleaned the thermostat on the fan clutch. Last minute I pulled the overhead console so I could measure for my switch panel.

I wired the Duralift through the auxiliary oil pressure switch outlined here...

http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/electric-fuel-pump.html

I ran the ground wire for the relay into the cab to a switch (ground interruption) and wired up a push button to the starter circuit with a diode. Hopefully I got it right and will be able to push the momentary button with the key on and run the pump (to prime the system) without starting the truck! In doing this, I ended up having to fix a bunch of crap job wiring one of the PO's did. This weekend I'm going to pull the underhood fuse block bracket off the Bronco. I want to install a 92-96 fuse box between the coolant overflow tank and brake booster for the auxiliary lights. I have one that's been floating around in my spare parts for just such an occasion. I really don't want bundles of wires all over the place on this truck and the 9th gen underhood fuse box has a small footprint. I just need to decide how im going to bring it up level with the top of the overflow tank and suspend it over the harnesses that connect the in cab to the underhood wiring.

Finally took a side shot.

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Old t-stat on the left. Guess it had been replaced at one point. Glad I decided to tackle it while doing all this.

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Lift pump wiring looks like a rats nest with the fender off. Need to pick up some more wire loom tomorrow.

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Diode for the prime circuit. Had an orange and brown/white wire that a PO had cut that didn't have any mates that I could find. Reconnected the key on only red/green wire and a solid blue wire. I totally forgot that the push button would backfeed to the "start" circuit and got luck enough to find a single factory diode in my tin of emergency fuses.

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Frame clip and zip tie to hold the fuel line in place. Yeah, had just shot it with paint to cover the spot where I hammered it on.

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I'll try to remember to get a pic of the lift pump kill switch and the prime button tomorrow. Plans are to get the pyrometer hooked up and finished. Still have to shoot another coat of paint on the battery trays and associated hardware. I'll be picking up bolts/nuts/lock washers for the core support bushings and may mount it up tomorrow as well. Gotta get on paint soon, I'm only about 80 people away from getting recalled to KW, but June's build schedule isn't complete yet, so I might get lucky and get everything done (and married) before I go back to not having any time to do much.

 

[crash-harris]

No one else caught it, but I realized as I was falling asleep last night that I plumbed my shutoff valve incorrectly for the coolant filter. Fixed first thing this morning. Hit some hardware with a last coat of paint and am taking a small break before finishing the split wire loom. Then onto the pyro with my busted fingers!

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[crash-harris]

Waiting on paint to dry...as fun as that is, I'm also waiting on a 1/4" female NPT to 1/4" male NPT fitting to arrive (in about 45 minutes) for the thermocouple. Pics and details on the last page of my Thermocoupler thread (linked to 3rd page).

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?75369-Pyrometer-Thermocouple-Fitment/page3

Mocked up the core support and the bolts I got might be a hair too long. Won't know until the fenders go on. I'm salvaging the dished square washers from the factory bushing arrangement. You can see that there is a small space under the washer that only the dished ones fit.

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Core support...

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I found my 1/8" NPT tap this morning and realized I had planned to drill/tap/plug my t-stat housing when I had it off (for future fan controller probe). Oh well, project for later, or I'll use it to make a housing that I can splice into the upper radiator hose.

 

[crash-harris]

Just realized that I forgot to get a pic of the lift pump switch locations. Maybe I'll remember by the time I get the overhead switch panel made

So my dad saved my progress momentum today by dropping off some more 1/4" male to female NPT fittings so I could space out the thermocouple properly. He also spotted a fuel leak, buy complete chance, at the tee fitting on the filter head for the fuel pressure sender (to the new gauge). I ordered a 1/8" male to female NPT fitting so I can get the tee sealed. I thought it was already, but I couldn't get it threaded in any further since it was clipping the filter head.

Primers all the bare spots on top of the cab, connected the pyrometer and moved the 60* LED lights that I had on top of the old bumper to the rear next to the stacks. One is pointed at the center of the bed to observe gooseneck/5th wheel hitch connections. The other one is pointed pretty much straight back as a reverse light and for bad mannered drivers

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I'll hit these spots with another coat of primer and touch then up with some IH Red. It's the same color, but they'll be a slight difference due to fading. The new front clip will go about the same way.

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More progress next week. Picking up some supplies tomorrow, including a very small diameter vacuum hose to replace the notorious crumbly white line that controls the HVAC mixing door solonoid. Figured I should nip it while the clip is off.

 

[crash-harris]

Got some more cussing done today. Pulled the FSV and found out it works, but a PO cut the brown/white tracer wire that supplies power to the other side of the switch. Please take a look at my help thread before I start splicing crap together...

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?76742-Harness-Help!

Finally remembered to get a pic of the Duralift kill switch (left) and fuel prime button (right).

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Then I unboxed the brand new driver's side fender to mock it up on the truck to find this BS!

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I got into contact with LMC Truck about it and sent these pictures and some of its cardboard wrapping. Even the point at the front of the fender is curled in and the primer has chipped off where it's bent/creased. Hopefully they will replace it and charge UPS for the damage, else I'll get stuck with having to take the fender to a body shop or buy a new one.

So to hell with mocking fenders up, I'll get in the cab. Pulled the Western Hauler center console and found a brand new switch, lots of pens, filth and 20 cents!

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The console is held together mostly with staples and has been coming apart. I'm going to put short wood screws in it tomorrow to make it solid again. Also relocating the reverse light switch from the panel surrounding the shifter to the did of the console between it and the seat. This way I won't have to duck to reach it and cab just flip it with my thumb. It'll also make room for radiator e-fan control switches later and some 12V charging ports.

 

[crash-harris]

Just got an email from LMC Truck saying that they will file a claim with UPS and I'll receive a new fender in about a week or so. This is great news and being my first experience with their customer service, with awesome results, I'll surely be giving them a mention in the Hall of Fame.

 

[crash-harris]

Can anyone verify if this is the horn relay?

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Here was one of the days biggest challenges. I got the FSV reinstalled with new locking clips and tried to find out why all the PO's didn't think it worked. Turns out the gauge was the only thing not working on the front. I wonder why...

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New one week be in tomorrow afternoon.

Started on this today too. PRETTY That my friends is a 1/4" thick piece of diamond plate. I barely got it cut "straight" enough for it to fit in there. I've got to figure out a better way to cut this stuff before the 1/8" plate gets here. Either way, got the pilot holes drilled today, but have to bring my drill from home with me (correct size bit won't fit in the chuck). I'll get the switches in tomorrow.

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Also replaced the throttle cable today along with screwing the center console together. If I remember to get what I need I'll be doing a lot of wiring tomorrow while waiting on this new, undamaged fender.

 

[laserjock]

That connector is available. You just can't find the damn sender side. They used them forever. I think I found it originally for a late 60's mustang.