crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
So how much of a problem am I going to have if the missing piece of this copper washer fell into the injector bore? First one pulled (#2).
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Molasses Carnage Corrections
- Thread starter crash-harris
- Start date
Well its copper...its softer n steel could be significant or minor just depends on what happens...it could be resting in precup right now........how long is a piece of string?
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
Shined a light down the injector bore after I honed the seat with the stainless 12 gauge tornado brush and didn't see anything. Looking at the edges of the break on the washer now and they are black. Maybe that light chunk just burned up before I pulled the injector 
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
Cylinder #4 came out even worse. 2 small flakes were left in the bore, so I'm guys these did indeed burn up.
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those washers look pretty burnt and crushed. you could blow air through the GP hole and maybe the piece will come out.
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
No idea how old the injectors are, but they didn't have any combustion or fuel blowby until after I was hit on that side (driver's) and dropped into the 4' ditch with the truck in gear. The one that I replaced with the loaner injector Russ sent me had carbon CAKED on the bore walls, but the seat was in good shape. I only did injector #'s 2, 4 and 6 today and will be getting the rest tomorrow. Trying to figure out how to get the 12 gauge tornado brush into injector #8's bore with the cowl/firewall in the way. And the damn brush keeps coming out of the aluminum screw in base. Uploading photos now and other info on the way.
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crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
First off, thanks to Typ4 for the reman injectors, install kit, return line kit and extra o-rings!
Engine before work, with all the leaves and other crap on top of the valley pan still.
And if anyone doesn't know, sanding rusty injector lines by hand sucks! I fully expect the paint to peel or burn off after awhile, but I used high temp (exhaust) VHT. I've found it to be one of the most durable that I can pickup locally. I have yellow on my work boots now
After the paint started to set and the fumes were evacuated, I sealed the paint booth and fired up the kerosene heater for a few hours while I worked under the hood. Tomorrow I'll get the clamps painted.
All the old mismatched crap that came off the top of the engine. Below that is the return cap that came off injector #4. Looks like it melted inside a bit.
When I hit the top of the engine with the blow gun, I caught 2 interesting things. One looked like the fossilized cap for the fuel head heater. May have been replaced at some point. The other is a flat rubber plug with a small nipple on it. It's about 1.5" around. I'll get a pic of it tomorrow as I'm curious about what it is.
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Engine before work, with all the leaves and other crap on top of the valley pan still.
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And if anyone doesn't know, sanding rusty injector lines by hand sucks! I fully expect the paint to peel or burn off after awhile, but I used high temp (exhaust) VHT. I've found it to be one of the most durable that I can pickup locally. I have yellow on my work boots now
After the paint started to set and the fumes were evacuated, I sealed the paint booth and fired up the kerosene heater for a few hours while I worked under the hood. Tomorrow I'll get the clamps painted.
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All the old mismatched crap that came off the top of the engine. Below that is the return cap that came off injector #4. Looks like it melted inside a bit.
You must be registered for see images attach
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When I hit the top of the engine with the blow gun, I caught 2 interesting things. One looked like the fossilized cap for the fuel head heater. May have been replaced at some point. The other is a flat rubber plug with a small nipple on it. It's about 1.5" around. I'll get a pic of it tomorrow as I'm curious about what it is.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Well that sure is a mess. No matter what you think happened from this side of the screen you have a mess right there. Someone tightened those injectors down trying to stop a compression leak. That crushed the copper gasket so bad it burned out. You really need a seat reamer to repair the seats in the heads. Or you will end up with the same issues someone else left you with. As for pieces of copper blowing thru the engine. That will remain a mystery but in your favor you do not have a turbo for them to go thru. Copper is soft and will hammer down easily but remember this is now a work hardened piece of copper. Still soft but not as soft as annealed copper is. Seeing the green and red return line clamps tells me someone really did not care or maybe didn't know about the diffeent sizes of lines. Glad you are fixing it correctly.
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
I put the red clamps and the later style return cap on when Russ sent me the loaner injector to get the truck to my workspace. It worked fine, but the injectors in front of it became a problem. But it worked in place of the return cap that blew out just before christmas. The seats actually looked flat and fine. Hosed them with PB Blaster and the stainless tornado brush to clean out any carbon. I did find the missing pieces of each copper washer. They were still in the bores ajd I managed to blow them out with the blow gun. 1 piece from #2 and 3 from #4. Since none of the other injectors (other than 2, 4 and 6) had any blowby or obvious problems, I'm hopeful that they'll go eaiser. I'm glad that I notched the small flathead screwdriver to p8ck the stuck copper washers off the seats. I'll try to remember to get a picture of it tomorrow. I have a dentist appointment tomorrow so I'll get a late start.
I forgot to mention that I mimiced Brian's return tee at the back of the intake and got it put on. 3 brass hose barbs on a brass tee to tie both return banks to the 5/16" tank return line. Also got the 2 all brass drain petcocks installed in the block today with short spacers for easier access. I'll try to remember to get a pic of that as well. I'm hoping to get all the new injectors in tomorrow afternoon. Then Wednesday I'll start the cooling system flush.
I forgot to mention that I mimiced Brian's return tee at the back of the intake and got it put on. 3 brass hose barbs on a brass tee to tie both return banks to the 5/16" tank return line. Also got the 2 all brass drain petcocks installed in the block today with short spacers for easier access. I'll try to remember to get a pic of that as well. I'm hoping to get all the new injectors in tomorrow afternoon. Then Wednesday I'll start the cooling system flush.
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
Here's the little rubber plug I mentioned. Anyone know what it is and if it's of any importance?
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79jasper
Chickenhawk
Doesn't look familiar to me.
Maybe a replacement hood insulation holder?
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Maybe a replacement hood insulation holder?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
I thought about that, but it's soft, flexible rubber. Haven't found any receptacle for it yet.
I'm fighting to clean my last injector bore (#1). Looks like I was correct about my "carbon clot" theory. #7 came out fine with the washer on it and was very clean. #5 needed to be disassembled and it looked like by the time I was done that the precup was full of the carbon that came off the bore. #'s 1 & 3 came out as one piece but squealed the whole way out. Lots of carbon buildup on those ones.
Diving back in!
I'm fighting to clean my last injector bore (#1). Looks like I was correct about my "carbon clot" theory. #7 came out fine with the washer on it and was very clean. #5 needed to be disassembled and it looked like by the time I was done that the precup was full of the carbon that came off the bore. #'s 1 & 3 came out as one piece but squealed the whole way out. Lots of carbon buildup on those ones.
Diving back in!
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
That looks MUCH better!
Injectors in order when looking from front of engine along with their copper washers (phone rotated pic, look from the left). Back left is still on injector and second from the back on the right fell under the truck (I think!). I'll find out when I start her up after all this. @typ4, should get these sent out to you with an extra next week.
And the washer pick, as promised.
Trying to decide if I'm done for the day or if I should get the injector lines on and start repriming...
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Injectors in order when looking from front of engine along with their copper washers (phone rotated pic, look from the left). Back left is still on injector and second from the back on the right fell under the truck (I think!). I'll find out when I start her up after all this. @typ4, should get these sent out to you with an extra next week.
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And the washer pick, as promised.
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Trying to decide if I'm done for the day or if I should get the injector lines on and start repriming...
crash-harris
Breaker! Breaker!
Time for a conundrum!
So I started to mate up the bottom 2 injector lines to the IP before I left the garage today. The below diagram is the one I was working off of and it shows the bottom 2 lines are #7 and #2. It is wrong. When I went to mate up the #2 line it hit the intake before enough getting close to the right spot. I had to recheck my before picture of the top of the engine. Sure enough, my #2 line comes off the #4 position of this diagram. This is out of the black Haynes Diesel Engine Repair Manual in the Ford 6.9L and 7.3L V8 Engines section (chapter-page 3-27, figure 3.51). Anyone have an accurate diagram?
So I started to mate up the bottom 2 injector lines to the IP before I left the garage today. The below diagram is the one I was working off of and it shows the bottom 2 lines are #7 and #2. It is wrong. When I went to mate up the #2 line it hit the intake before enough getting close to the right spot. I had to recheck my before picture of the top of the engine. Sure enough, my #2 line comes off the #4 position of this diagram. This is out of the black Haynes Diesel Engine Repair Manual in the Ford 6.9L and 7.3L V8 Engines section (chapter-page 3-27, figure 3.51). Anyone have an accurate diagram?
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