Molasses Carnage Corrections

[crash-harris]

She's back!

After a lot of extreme cussing, the driver's side fender is on along with everything else. No assembled picture yet as I just got her home and finished up late. The driver's side fender will STILL need replaced. Chinese BS fender will NOT line up. If you order boost parts and any day Tong Yang on then, REFUSE THAT CRAP!

Here is the Cobra King (made in Taiwan) for comparison. This thing went on and lined up perfect, other than not having any threads to secure the passenger side battery tray to.

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As far as body panel replacement goes, this was actual a joy to line up.

 

[crash-harris]

Ok, so here is the Tong Yang driver's side fender...

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Way over a 1/4" gap at the bottom, but managed to get out right towards the top.

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Didn't see it until later, but it WILL NOT sit flush with the door, as in it stands too far away from the cab. It also misaligns the headlight on that side. I tried to jack it up with a 2x4 and trolley jack but only got maybe half an inch or of it. The upper skin seem where the rubber hood buffer rests is barely off the core support whereas the passenger side (Cobra King) sits about 2 inches or so off it like the factory Ford fenders. And threes things are THIN. Put debts in it just trying to push it up against the cab.

I'll repeat...

DO NOT USE TONG YANG BODY PARTS!

This was fender #4 from LMC truck. Guess they just wanted me to shut up

Anyway, finished pics will be up tomorrow or Sunday (depending on how hard it's raining tomorrow).

 

[crash-harris]

Oh, and a giant thank you to @icanfixall

New mag probes worked. Got 'er marked at 8.5, 9.5 and marked/set at 10.5!

 

[icanfixall]

Oh, and a giant thank you to @icanfixall

New mag probes worked. Got 'er marked at 8.5, 9.5 and marked/set at 10.5!

Sure happy the extra mags worked for you. I have noticed when I get back the rental meters many times I find the printed circuit boards have vibrated loose. These meters are truck shipped across the country and I kind of wonder why they loosen up? I'm not going to use blue loctite because if the boards ever need replacing it probably would be impossible to remove the extremely small machine screws.. BTW they actually have lock washers on these screws too. Its just a cross to bare when helping others.
I need a drivers fender but sure will not purchase one of these Chinese made fenders. Nothing worse than buying anything and finding out it was poorly made. I like doing a job once and doing it right but sometimes saving a buck ends up costing plenty more in time and money plus yelling and cussing at the parts and yourself for the purchase...

 

[crash-harris]

Here she is. Just realized that I forgot to torque the core support bushings back down! I had to loosen them as the support was sitting much closer to the driver's side than the passenger's side and I thought that was keeping me from aligning the driver's fender.

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The old lady is going to help me adjust the bumper roll soon so it's straight again (need 2 people), but I still can't get it shifted from left to right (need to go further right).

Today we are planning on driving it about an hour to visit some friends and about an hour back, after we stop back by the grandparents to torque those bushing bolts and grab the extra gallon of coolant to tose in the back seat.

First impressions as of last night driving her home...

First, I can actually hear the exhaust! Seems where the IP was set before I timed it was WAY advanced and clattered all the time. Much quieter now.

Second, I think the IP had been cranked up some. Coming off the same ramp in the same manner that I did everybody when heading home from my 2nd shift job, I hit 1200* on the pyro pretty easy. Temps seem to climb very quickly with an increase in throttle, but she was cruising at 60-65 at just over 600*.

Third, steering...I tightened the over center adjustment about half a turn (the proper way, not just trying to turn the jam nut) and steering is a bit jerky, but still a little loose. I'd rather have smooth bump steer versus jerky bump steer. It could also be the telescoping part of the steering shaft. When it came apart, 2 cupped springs fell out and a home made looking shim. The shim jerky just disappeared (spent a good hour combing the floor and inner fender for it). I couldn't figure out how the springs were in there, so I just installed and pulled them and reinstalled until the 2 halves of the steering shaft had no play in them.

 

[crash-harris]

Sure happy the extra mags worked for you. I have noticed when I get back the rental meters many times I find the printed circuit boards have vibrated loose. These meters are truck shipped across the country and I kind of wonder why they loosen up? I'm not going to use blue loctite because if the boards ever need replacing it probably would be impossible to remove the extremely small machine screws.. BTW they actually have lock washers on these screws too. Its just a cross to bare when helping others.
I need a drivers fender but sure will not purchase one of these Chinese made fenders. Nothing worse than buying anything and finding out it was poorly made. I like doing a job once and doing it right but sometimes saving a buck ends up costing plenty more in time and money plus yelling and cussing at the parts and yourself for the purchase...

The bad part is that the first 3 fenders they sent matched the good passenger side, same branding and all. They were just damaged from their warehouse. I still haven't decided if I'm going to male another issue of it with them or not.

 

[crash-harris]

Posted in the IP thread I made about the timing reset I did earlier. While I was out there I already verified that the brake controller is wired correctly. Since it's the P3 it also let me know that the camper wiring I did a couple of years ago is also correct since it didn't through out any errors during the function check. All lights work properly when connected to the camper and I created and saved a preset for the heavy pig.

Also fixed the cigar lighter. It decided to stop working when I got the truck out of the barn and found a popped fuse for it yesterday. Turns out the hot lead connector just popped off and was bouncing around. Squeezed it a bit and reattached, all good!

Steering seemed to smooth out some yesterday on the way home on our trip. I think so much PS fluid had drained from sitting for 3 months that the gear box had air in it. I did fill it up before pulling it out of the barn, but I can still feel the pump whining about it even though it's full. Next big project, other then the front fuel tank will be a redhead box and sag pump swap.

Plans for this week ate to clean the grandparents barn and get all my tools back home (tomorrow and pregnant Tuesday as well), wipe down and clean out the interior of the cab, install the 5th wheel hitch rails/frame mounts and have the old lady help me rotate the front bumper.


Now, as for the front fuel tank...

I'm going to assume that I have brass floats. Bruiser is a '90 built in November of '89 and the Enterprise is a '90 built even earlier in '89. Bruiser originally had brass floats on the in tank fuel level senders...

Since driving around town yesterday, I noticed that when stopping the fuel gauge needle would bounce when running off the front tank. This leads me to believe that the float has failed and is full of fuel (Bruiser had the same thing happen in the rear tank once). So whenever I get the time to pull the rusty luck ring apart and break into the front tank, I'll get a new brass float. That's only if I don't get to drive up north to pickup Ironman's front tank.

 

[david85]

Ok, so here is the Tong Yang driver's side fender...

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Way over a 1/4" gap at the bottom, but managed to get out right towards the top.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

Didn't see it until later, but it WILL NOT sit flush with the door, as in it stands too far away from the cab. It also misaligns the headlight on that side. I tried to jack it up with a 2x4 and trolley jack but only got maybe half an inch or of it. The upper skin seem where the rubber hood buffer rests is barely off the core support whereas the passenger side (Cobra King) sits about 2 inches or so off it like the factory Ford fenders. And threes things are THIN. Put debts in it just trying to push it up against the cab.

I'll repeat...

DO NOT USE TONG YANG BODY PARTS!

This was fender #4 from LMC truck. Guess they just wanted me to shut up

Anyway, finished pics will be up tomorrow or Sunday (depending on how hard it's raining tomorrow).

I feel your pain. I went through this with a door shell. The steel thickness was good but the fit was poor. It took much bashing before I could get a proper seal against the door gasket. To this day, there is extra wind noise. In the end I lucked out and found a set of doors, fenders and hood that were ford OEM replacement from an abandoned project bronco. I never did dry fit the fenders but the doors were perfect so I hope it will be fine.

 

[crash-harris]

I've experienced the door thing with one from NPD on what was supposed to be the old lady's bronco, but I think it had more to do with the fact that the body mount, inner/outer floor pans and inner/outer rockers were mostly rotted away

 

[riotwarrior]

U gonna BUFF out rest so its nice n chiney too?

 

[crash-harris]

Ha! If I were to buff the it most of the paint would comments off. Morons that painted red/white the first time just shot it over the clear coat with ZERO prep. Fender flares will get stripped down, sanded, filed back up and painted so at least they match, but probably not until next year. I've had it with body work for a little while.