Molasses Carnage Corrections

[crash-harris]

I think I've had a trying to move too fast moment. I studied my own "before" picture and realized that I've been a bit overzealous in thinking that I had a conundrum. All should be well

More to come tomorrow once the lines and clamps are back on.

 

[crash-harris]

Well fellas, as of 12:50 pm she can move under her own power again! 2 spin cycles to prime the injection lines (gp controller disconnected), 1 more after connecting the lines to the injectors (and for good measure to clear the carbon and PB Blaster out of the precups), then she only rolled over 3 times before roaring to life! A few shallow sounding misses and within seconds was idling smooth. Air off the top of the engine before connecting lines so I could look for leaks and noticed nothing. I was a little worried about it since I didn't realize that 3/8 torque wrench I rented was in inch pounds. 22 ft lbs is 264 in lbs, so I cranked out up to 205 in lbs (maxed out) and clicked then all 2 or 3 times to be safe. After this little break I'll be getting the hard line clamps back on and start filling buckets with water. I have to dig 2 of the buckets out from under the truck...first time I got too excited and forgot that the transmission was in 1st when I first started to prime the lines and rolled the jack stands The floor tilts the direction the truck is pointing so when I tried to let it roll back the brakes did nothing and I dropped her off the jack stands. All is well though. I'll jack her back up and leave her in neutral this time with the rear wheels blocked

Felt good to hear her rumble!

 

[crash-harris]

Only picture today. Flushed out a lot of murky, sandy water out of the cooling system today. Monday will be the last flush with distilled water. Oh, and I did find the list copper washer so I seemed to have gotten the fuel system work done right the first time

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[crash-harris]

Got a surprise from the parts fairy today! I only placed the order yesterday. Quickest ship ever.

Stewart Warner fuel pressure sender, poly core support bushings, SW water temp and fuel pressure gauges with green filters to match the factory dash lights and a 1/8" to 1/4" NPT adpater to put a tee on the oil pressure port on the back of the block.

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Looks like I'll get to install the pressure sender while I'm waiting on the last flush to drain next week. Thinking I'm going to change Monday plans and head across county to my folks so I can get on fabbing my IP wrench.

 

[crash-harris]

So the NPT adapter on the Stewart Warner mechanical coolant temp probe is BIG, and there are no adapters for it. The furrel on the probe itself is the standard size (UNF threads IIRC). Can anyone confirm the size/thread pitch of these standard UNF threads? I'm guessing I'll need an adapter from the UNF threads to a smaller NPT size then what came it. Hence the next question...

What's the size of the pipe plugs in the back of the heads and can the be removed with the heads on the engine/in the truck? I've heard that's the best place to install the probe for an aftermarket temp probe. I'd like to get this installed this upcoming week while there's no coolant in the block and I still have momentum in the mechanical work.

 

[79jasper]

There's some square drive plugs on the side of the head above the manifolds.

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[crash-harris]

Just found that out in a search. Know what size they are?

I think I've found out that the furrel nut on the aftermarket temp probe is 5/8-18, but the adapter that came with it looks about like a 3/4" NPT (bigger than a quarter...the coin, that is).

 

[79jasper]

Actual thread size? I don't, but I have pump a sender there before without have to get any new adapters.
I believe it was a 1/2 socket drive.

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[crash-harris]

I think the adapter that came with my probe is 1/2" NPT. Has a 7/8" head on it.

 

[79jasper]

Sounds about right.

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[crash-harris]

Only a small update today. It was a short and frustrating day. I broke the factory oil pressure switch trying to remove it with not having a 1 1/16" drop well socket. I did manage to knock the NPT square head plug it of the front driver's side of the block with a 12 point socket and the impact. I got the bung installed in its place for the coolant temp probe. Cut back the decrepit firewall cover enough to drill a hole big enough to stuff a grommet in. Got the sender installed for the electric fuel pressure gauge and put in the tree of tee fittings on the back of the block for the factory oil pressure switch, a safety pair switch for the electric fuel pump install and the fittings for the mechanical oil pressure gauge. I did get my gauge pods installed where I want them and kinda mocked up the fuel and oil pressure gauges. They 3 gauge pod is a glowshift cheapy and the holes for senders/wires are small and the pods themselves are a bit shallow, so I opened the backs up a bit and the gauges fit PERFECT without the rubber o-ring.

From left to right I'm going to do 1. Fuel pressure 2. Pyrometer 3. Coolant temp 4. Oil pressure and the last pod will get something later. Either a numbered voltmeter or air pressure gauge once I get the on board air setup.

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Day was cut short to meet my best man at the house. He needed a lawn mower, so I sold him my Cub Cadet 149 with 2 decks and a plow. Thing runs like a scalded ape after I replaced the points awhile back and it doesn't leak like my 1250 and 1200

More pics to come tomorrow.

 

[crash-harris]

Need some quick help fellas. I'm connecting my fuel pressure sender and need to find an ignition on only power wire under dash to tap for it. I tried searching because I know it's been discussed before, but only results are for GP harness, IP wiring underhood and fixing cut wires. I don't want to clutter my fuse box with fuse taps on this truck.

And would the oil pressure gauge sensor being disconnected cause the red engine light to light up? After working on top of the engine, the first time I started the truck today the engine light stayed on and the only thing that's changed has been that I broke the factory oil pressure switch yesterday, so it's not connected right now.

 

[crash-harris]

Btt

 

[no mufflers]

I would see if you can use some wires that go the switch on the bottom of the steering column. that does control the whole vehicle so im sure there is something.

 

[crash-harris]

In digging around, I found typ4's radio wiring and color codes post. There are red/light green and black/light green labeled as ignition (I'm assuming the light green is the stripe), but the ones I found that color were like 10 gauge or so. I did find an actually fuse tap block in the console, so I have a 20 amp fuse tapped temporarily. Also found that the oil pressure sender for the factory dummy gauge not being connected will turn the red SOL light on. New server is on its way.

Pretty much just fought with getting the gauges all connected and routing today. Once I got the electronic fuel pressure gauge and the mechanical coolant temp and oil pressure, I flushed the cooling system one more time with distilled water. Also found the reason behind my exhaust leak at the ball joint where the passenger manifold and pipe meet. At least one nut was stripped, so I'll be correcting that Monday. I dropped the pyrometer in place, got all the lighting wired up to dim with the dash lights and replaced the connector for the WIF sensor. Pryo looks a little dim in the picture, but only because it's slightly out of focus.

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Tree of tee fittings for oil pressure.

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Fuel pressure sender.

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And the NPT bung for the coolant temp probe.

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Got a video uploading that I took while warming the engine to flush the cooling system. I'll post it up when it's done.