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This what you are talking about Gary?
It turns on the water in fuel light. My wif sensor is not connected.
If you just unplug it, it won’t hurt anything but your wif light won’t work.
Main Wire Harness Pics
- Thread starter icanfixall
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This what you are talking about Gary?
It turns on the water in fuel light. My wif sensor is not connected.
If you just unplug it, it won’t hurt anything but your wif light won’t work.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Thats exactly the black box I'm referring to. It has the red wire I have been chasing for a long time. My wif wire has not been connected for many years. For about 2 years my fast idle has not worked. I don't recall if my cold advance works either. I listen for the engine sound to change with the coolant reaches 120 degrees and it has not changed for bout 2 years. Might check the sender for failing too. Its the sender behind the thermostat housing down really low and horrible to get to. I still have the issue that started all this mess. I hotted up my batteries.Waited for the controller to cycle and wait to start light go out. fired up quickly. Ran about 2 minutes and stopped. Inline fuse burned out so problem continues.****** it sure is....e
Gary, that WIF amplifier (black box above) I don’t think is in that circuit. The red/yellow circuit IIRC goes to the vacuum switch for the brake warning, I’m thinking headlights, and seems like something else but I can’t remember what. I do t think that circuit holds your answer. The red/green circuit goes to the IP; hot side of the temp sensor for the cold Advance/high idle; hot side of the GP relay; fuel heater.. think that’s about it. Did you by chance tap that wire for your electric fuel pump signal?
Maybe the fuel pump relay is bad?
Maybe the fuel pump relay is bad?
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Electric fuel pump is not on a relay and is on its own power circuit under the dash. Pump is on only when ignition is on. It is not on when ignition is in the accessory position.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Well this sucks and blows at the same time.... Found the issue. Turns out the coolant sensor way behind the thermostat housing and gone bad to ground. Even melted part of the rubber connector plug. Found three replacements in the wrecking yard today so can swap as needed. But bigger issues came up.The plug from the harness has a copper and a brass plug in it. So the replacement or the oem sensors also have a copper and brass spade connector. As you can imagine tightening the sensor in the head you may need to turn it till the copper meets the copper. I'm just not certain what goes to what at this point. I did fire up the engine and no wires are getting overheated. I found the copper side of the harness plug is hot as it should be all the time. So does that connect to the copper side of the sensor??? I'm not a stupid guy but this has me wondering.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Yeap... Best part of dealing with an electrical issue. I re connected the cold advance and tested it ok. Then re connected the fast idle solenoid and it also tested fine. Next to connect is the wif light and the low vacuum switch. Things are looken up...
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