low charge output

[69oiler]

ok i've replaced the alternator, voltage regulator, and both batteries...and i still have a weak charge. the more electrical accessories i turn on, the more the volt gauge drops. if i rev the motor the output increases but it still barely makes 13 volts reved up with all accessories off.

what gives? ya think i got a bad regulator?

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Ya need a bigger alternator maybe? What all accessories are ya running?

 

[69oiler]

Ya need a bigger alternator maybe? What all accessories are ya running?

headlights...heater fan...windshield wipers

i haven't even begun to run the snow plow motor.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Sounds like a bad regulator Rob.

 

[Hybrid455]

Have you tried full fielding the alternator?

 

[OLDBULL8]

Go here for tech info. Alternators not made to charge batteries, ya gotta have the batts fully charged or damn close to that. Did you charge those new batts with a charger when you installed them? Make sure the belt is not slipping. Check the charge wire going from the Alt. to the batts, connected at the start solenoid for corrosion. Put a jumper from the battery to the field on the Alt. then see what the output voltage is, check at the solenoid connection.

 

[Agnem]

Have you tried full fielding the alternator?

X2. I think that truck still had the external regulator. Just connect the field circuit to the positive battery post and see what kind of juice it makes. That will confirm it is either an alternator and/or wiring problem, or a regulator and/or wiring problem.

 

[69oiler]

ok...i'm ignorant when it come to electrical terms. what should i be looking for in regards to a field circuit? i can handle the connecting to the positive post part.

yes there is a new external regulator on the fenderwell...and yes i have fully charged both new batteries with my fully automatic battery charger.

 

[Hybrid455]

ok...i'm ignorant when it come to electrical terms. what should i be looking for in regards to a field circuit? i can handle the connecting to the positive post part.

yes there is a new external regulator on the fenderwell...and yes i have fully charged both new batteries with my fully automatic battery charger.

One thing that I have learned is that just because you have replaced parts doesn't mean that those parts are good. There are some really crappy rebuilers out there. The other thing is that if you don't understand electrical things it's really easy to let the smoke out of the wires. In order to do this right you need a voltmeter and an amp meter capable of displaying around 150
amps. If you don't have this don't go any further. MAKE SURE the belt is tight and not slipping. If it's ok take the alternator off it's not that hard. Take it back to where you bought it and have it tested. It should be pushing over 100 amps. If it doesn't get a new one then have them test the new one in front of you so you know it works. If the alternator you have now proves out it is probably unlikely that 2 regulators are doing the same thing. I would be looking at connectors and wiring very closely for any broken wires or corrosion. Sometimes wires will not appear broken on the outside. The copper strands can break internally usually in places where the wire makes a bend and usually at a connector where the terminal has been crimped on.

 

[Agnem]

Rob, with the truck shut off, pull the connector off the regulator. Take a piece of wire with male spade connectors crimped at each end, and stick one end in the hole closest to the motor (as viewed when it is on the regulator, and then count 1,2,3 with 1 being the first hole you just stuck it in, and connect the other end of the wire to hole #3. These should be the F and I terminals respectively. This will full field the alternator, and effectively apply maximum charging to the battery. Your voltage should go way up past 18 volts. While looking for a picture for you I found this, which has an interesting test I never thought of to check for magnatism. http://www.balmar.net/Page64-troubleshooting.html

There is a helpfull explaination here http://www.alternatorparts.com/understanding_alternators.htm

 

[69oiler]

thanks Mel! i'll be monkeying with the IDI again after turkey day...right now i'm doing rust repair on the SD. the IDI is working well as a parts runner, and has gotten treated with all the leftover POR15

 

[Hybrid455]

Rob, with the truck shut off, pull the connector off the regulator. Take a piece of wire with male spade connectors crimped at each end, and stick one end in the hole closest to the motor (as viewed when it is on the regulator, and then count 1,2,3 with 1 being the first hole you just stuck it in, and connect the other end of the wire to hole #3. These should be the F and I terminals respectively. This will full field the alternator, and effectively apply maximum charging to the battery. Your voltage should go way up past 18 volts. While looking for a picture for you I found this, which has an interesting test I never thought of to check for magnatism. http://www.balmar.net/Page64-troubleshooting.html

There is a helpfull explaination here http://www.alternatorparts.com/understanding_alternators.htm

Mel- I was going to suggest exactly what you did. Don't get me wrong because I have come respect you since I've been hangin around. I am also aware that I am a new guy around here. You may better understand 69 oilers capabilities but.... If a wire is inadvertantly shorted to ground it can make an expensive mess, secondly it is possible to have good voltage and insufficient current. The kink here is that we are talking low charge not no charge. Without an amp meter and with the alternator full fielded there is no way to tell the difference between say 30 amps which would be insufficient and 100. The alternator should be checked under a load with an amp meter and a voltmeter or at least be sure that the alternator is capable of maximum amperage by testing it on a bench. Anything else is leaving a door open for Murphy to sneak up behind you and have his way. Just my opinion and trying to help someone avoid the pot holes.

 

[69oiler]

Mel and I go way back to 2000...we tore apart a truck together on 01...the 2 of us and 2 others masterminded the first annual IDI rally...Mel came to my wedding reception. yeah I'd say he has me sort of figured out.

i've been in, out, and around the IDI Ford trucks since 2000. elbow deep in the engines... clutch and tranny rebuilds and swaps...front TTB rebuilds...leaf spring replacement...body work

that said, i'm not too proud to say so when i dont know something...and i do not know a lot about electrical systems. i will take the advice and have the alternator bench tested...this is a good way to troubleshoot. i'll also do what Mel said with the full feild thing.

thanks

 

[Hybrid455]

Mel and I go way back to 2000...we tore apart a truck together on 01...the 2 of us and 2 others masterminded the first annual IDI rally...Mel came to my wedding reception. yeah I'd say he has me sort of figured out.

i've been in, out, and around the IDI Ford trucks since 2000. elbow deep in the engines... clutch and tranny rebuilds and swaps...front TTB rebuilds...leaf spring replacement...body work

that said, i'm not too proud to say so when i dont know something...and i do not know a lot about electrical systems. i will take the advice and have the alternator bench tested...this is a good way to troubleshoot. i'll also do what Mel said with the full feild thing.

thanks

I figured as much.... usually find a way to insert the ol shoe leather. Hope I don't come off like a know it all cuz I damn sure don't. If it was mine I would full field it too that's why I asked but then I had second thoughts and visions of smoke from your alternator if you probed the wrong wires. If that happened it would be a hard sell to return. I'd hate to be semi responsible for that so I tried to help by coming up with another maybe safer way for the electrical novice to approach the whole thing. Anyway I should have known that Mel knew what he was doin. Sorry if I was second guessin.

 

[69oiler]

no problem.

i actually have 2 alternators for the truck..i swapped in my spare to try and fix this charging issue. i'm pretty sure i have 2 good alternators, but i'll get them both tested to be sure.

i'm lucky to never have had to deal with many electrical gremlins until now.