Let the ZF5 swap commence!

[IDIBRONCO]

The input shaft can be a PITA. I'll leave it in gear and then turn the output shaft to help line up the input splines and the clutch disk splines. If all else fails, I have pushed in gently on the clutch pedal to help. I ONLY do this as a last resort and if the there isn't much of a gap between the transmission and the adapter plate. I've really had to do this a couple of times if I didn't have the clutch centered under the pressure plate. If it's centered, then you shouldn't have to do this.

 

[ISPKI]

Well I got the transmission in. I threaded two of the long 1/2in bolts into the top holes and basically used them as a guide to line up the rest of the trans. Its bolted and torqued in and I went about modifying the AT crossmember to fit. I found that if you flip the crossmember 180 degrees, you only need to drill 2 holes through it on the drivers side and one hole in the frame on the passenger side to make it fit

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Almost there!

 

[ISPKI]

Yep! I got the pedal assembly in and the crossmember fully bolted in. I might change the crossmember a bit but it works for now.

 

[ISPKI]

Going to add a parts list since i noticed some people looking for it.

Zf5 trans from an obs 460 or 7.3idi
Pedal assembly from any obs 5spd
Flywheel, i used LuK SMF
Clutch kit, again LuK's kit
Master and slave cylinder, i used LuK's sealed kit from rockauto.
Longer rear driveshaft
Shorter front driveshaft.

The LuK clutch kit came with new bolts and the master cylinder position switch that will be absent from the E4od truck.

Crossmembers from F Super Duty trucks are different from the normal F series and will not fit.

 

[blaz4wd]

Nice work thanks for the info. I will jumping In this boat in a few weeks after I get new gaskets in the motor.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It's well worth it to me.

 

[franklin2]

Going to add a parts list since i noticed some people looking for it.

Zf5 trans from an obs 460 or 7.3idi
The 460 trans will not fit unless modified and drilled

Pedal assembly from any obs 5spd
You must get a pedal assembly that matches your truck's year family. If you have a 86-dwn truck, you must use a 86-dwn pedal assembly. Not sure about the later year truck family interchange

Flywheel, i used LuK SMF
Clutch kit, again LuK's kit
Master and slave cylinder, i used LuK's sealed kit from rockauto.
Early truck firewalls must be drilled for the master. Later ones had a plate that just unbolts

Longer rear driveshaft
Shorter front driveshaft.
c6 to zf, driveshafts can be re-used, but some trucks used a different u-joint in the rear driveshaft

c6 to zf, lower crossmembers are the same, you need the short upper zf crossmembers to do the swap

Try to get the zf trans wiring harness. With a c6 to zf swap, the c6 harness unplugs under the brake booster, the zf plugs right in, you are ready to go with no wiring

The LuK clutch kit came with new bolts and the master cylinder position switch that will be absent from the E4od truck.

Crossmembers from F Super Duty trucks are different from the normal F series and will not fit.

 

[ISPKI]

Thanks for the info there franklin. I am actually using the e4od crossmember but I did modify it to fit. I will post pictures when i am all done with it.

I am just about at the point where i can fire up the truck but i have not done any harness modifications. What needs to be modified on the e4od harness?

 

[franklin2]

Here's a diagram of the start circuit. You need to tie the white/pink and the red/lightblue together at the selector switch wiring so power from the keyswitch during start can make it to the starter solenoid. I personally did not worry about the clutch switch on mine. I left the jumper in that it had when it was a automatic.

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=4934

 

[ISPKI]

Wow, that diagram is excellent. Saved it to my truck folder.

The wires that need to be spliced are at the electrical connector that was plugged into the E4OD correct? I think I Found the wires, going to take a picture for confirmation.

 

[morgankshaw]

ISPKI, I'm going to be waiting on that picture!
I'm doing this swap in a week or two. I'm bummed to hear that the super duty cross member won't work because thats where I grabbed my zf5 from..... Good info here. I think the wiring is the biggest challenge for me. Keep the progress coming!

I also opted to swap gauge clusters so I won't have the PRND in my cluster and also grabbed the pedals and the manual column while I was at it.

One thing you may want to consider is getting the firewall reinforcement kit, it apparently was a common problem on these trucks for the pressure from the pedal use to wear out the firewall and it would crack.

 

[ISPKI]

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These are the two wires in question. They can be accessed at one of the plugs that plug into the E4OD. The yellow looking wire that I separated is actually white with a very faint pink stripe but it was stained yellow from oil and grime. I cut them off a few inches from the plug because I wasnt 100% sure that they would work...

 

[ISPKI]

So, my buddy came by and gave me a hand firing the truck up. I crossed some of my manual ignition wires (FSS, GP relay, GPs) and melted a switch. Fortunately I had a spare 50A switch. I changed the oil on the ZF5 and the Transfer case and the Slug fired right up after sitting for 4 months through winter! I took a video of it but I cant figure out how to upload it...

 

[morgankshaw]

So, my buddy came by and gave me a hand firing the truck up. I crossed some of my manual ignition wires (FSS, GP relay, GPs) and melted a switch. Fortunately I had a spare 50A switch. I changed the oil on the ZF5 and the Transfer case and the Slug fired right up after sitting for 4 months through winter! I took a video of it but I cant figure out how to upload it...

So just to confirm, connecting those two wires solved the problem and you were able to start with the key?


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