Let the ZF5 swap commence!

ISPKI

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I bought the clutch kit for the solid flywheel, not the dual mass. The description for the "conversion" kit says that it contains the solid flywheel part# and clutch part# that I purchased.
 

ISPKI

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I picked up a driveshaft yesterday that I think will work. My driveshaft was 47in. I measured what i needed by installing it into my transfer case until the slip yoke flange contacted the end of the dust boot, then I pulled it away from the boot 1in. I supported the axle end on a jack stand and measured center to center on the U joints. Came up with 6.25in difference.

The axle I picked measures 54in, .75in longer than what I need but it should still work. From what I can see, the dust boot is part of the output shaft seal but the actual seal is further inside the tcase. I am going to look for a seal that doesnt have the boot sticking out. Until then, i may just trim a little off the boot.
 

morgankshaw

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Watch out that when the suspension compresses it doesn't smash the tail shaft.


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ISPKI

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It didnt work, it might work if i could get the u joint to clear the bracket on the rear axle but i need another .125in and i have already trimmed the dust boot. Looks like im going to a driveshaft shop on monday.

In other news I welded on my 4in flex pipe, made some custom hangars for it. Fabbed up my shifter lever out of steel plumbing pipe, and replaced the entire brake line for the rear brakes with nicopp.

Anyone know how to share videos? This truck sounds mean with dual open 3in collectors.
 

ISPKI

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Any chance that you could find a shorter driveshaft?

Ive been looking for almost a month now, the guy i bought this from had around 20 of them all from 92-97 fords, none of them the right size. Im going to cave and bring it to a driveshaft shop, cant really wait any longer, girlfriend's car needs an engine swap and this truck needs to get hauling.
 

franklin2

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Making it shorter should be easy for them, when I had access to a lathe I did a few myself. They will chuck it up and under cut the factory weld and drive the end out of the tube. Shorten the tube, drive the same end back in, and then weld it back. They will probably balance it, which I never did but is a good thing to do.
 

austin92

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Watch out that when the suspension compresses it doesn't smash the tail shaft.


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This is true for 4-link coil sprung systems.

When our axle is drooping is when the driveshaft moves forward. On the bump stops would have the driveshaft farthest back. Look at the shackles and it will all make sense :)


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