Junkyard Score!!!

[oldmisterbill]

I wouldn't intentionally have a Dodge auto trans. I hate autos generally, and Ford guys can't really brag too much..... but a Getrag from the Dodge or a ZF or T18/19 from a Ford should hold up to some serious power. Yeah I imagine the P-Pump by itself with no core is probably 3000 bucks. Am I too high or too low?

Traitor !!!!!

 

[oldmisterbill]

I know of a cummins dodge it was in an accident eqrly model with an automatic. I don't know why but he said the fuel mileage was poor.(although it has a severly out of allignment front end) It was his dads (elderly gent -passed away 5 years ago)I think low mileage.I have wondered what it would be worth as he has been ill & unemployed. Also to answer my curiousity how do the early ones compare to a turbo IDI - I have very little experience with smaller cummins.

 

[FordGuy100]

Sotck rated for 160hp an 400ft lbs. It's easier to turn them up though, way more fuel available by turning it up compared to a DB2 pump. I tribes up a VE cummins, and it's makes them pleasurable to drive.

 

[93f250idi]

What's this motor going in?

 

[FordGuy100]

Don't know yet. Maybe my truck, maybe the black truck. Itold him if he puts it in his superduty I get his powerstroke for a swap.

 

[bockhold]

Dunno if dad wants that done on his lol. Yours would be fine. Just need a zf5.

 

[FordGuy100]

Black truck would be badass though!

 

[bockhold]

according to fordcummins.com, some under the hood work needs done to fit a 12/24v in on a obs.

 

[FordGuy100]

BFH work, clearance. That's to be expected

 

[alienturtle]

its nothing more than moving the top back part of the firewall in about 1-2" that lip that sticks out needs to be beat in for the last valve cover to clear. you also need to fold the seam back. which most guys do anyway to fit the turbo stuff on the IDI. Other than that there isnt anything you need to worry about as far as the motor goes. you will need to flip the exhaust manifold over as well as turning the turbo upside down. which means you have to bust the clamp loose on the turbo to spin the exhaust housing upside down. doing this raises and moved the turbo inward to clear the a/c box. but by doing this you will have to get a longer piece of hose for the turbo drain. and its not an ordinary piece of hose. i had to find some high heat gator hose a tractor supply place to handle the heat of the oil. its all a tight fit but it will. Also you wont be using the dodge a/c that bolts on the bottom unless you want to notch and box in the cross member. In my case (all depends on what motor mounts you go with ect ect) it pushed the tranny back 2 1/4 inches. this in turn made me have to move the tranny support back and re drill all the holes for it. not really that big of a deal just a pain getting a drill on the inside of the frame. The exhaust of up to you what you want to do. There isnt a lot of room between the firewall and the tranny. most people will take a piece of pipe and put a huge dent in it to clear this. eff that. its too restricting i think. i made a nice free flowing S bend that went down between the starter and the motor mount. I think it would flow a lot better than pinching a pipe to about 1". Just a couple things to look at.

I love my swap. lots of power and i wouldnt do it without my zf5. That makes it all the more fun! My next upgrade is a Denny T fuel pin and the 366 gov spring. I am making about 26lbs of boost non intercooled just because im hitting the governor. also doesnt help i have 4.10 gears in this thing.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I would just crank it up and run it.

There is no need to be messing with seals, gaskets, and such unless they are actually leaking, which I doubt.

All the wires hanging on a 1st Gen. Cummins are there for such things as the gauge senders and such.

The water-in-fuel, grid-heaters, fuel-heater, and such can be discarded.

The only two wires necessary for it to run and drive are the one that actuates the fuel-solenoid and the one that powers the KSB valve located on the left side of the pump.

You can gut the fuel solenoid and do away with that wire.

I would check the oil, prop it up where it can't fall over, connect a battery, and fire it off.

I started and ran mine sitting on the floor many times before it got installed.

 

[FordGuy100]

The front timing cover is thick with grim/oil so ut does have a leak. I guess if it holds good compression then we can skip the headgakset, but kits are cheap an it's on the ground type of thing.

 

[FordGuy100]

So we pulled the top cover off the intake. Water on the intake valves. So we pulled the head. 4 cylinders look perfect. Cabon buildup on the pistons, but no biggie. Cylinder walls look amazing, can still see cross honing (I think thats what its called). The other two cylinders....

Had some water in them. Nothing major, but it would probably be wise to take the block in to get cleaned up. Highly doubt the cylinders need bored out, it doesnt look anywhere near that bad.

Pics to come.

 

[FordGuy100]

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[FordGuy100]

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