IDI brings home a new international

[Shadetreemechanic]

I brought home a new project today.
I don't know a thing about it. It has a 2 barrel v-8 and a dump bed. I really just bought it for the hydraulics and bed but am out trying to get it running now.
The woman I got it from said it just quit.....in 1995. So far I can tell that they put new cap, rotor, and plugs in it. The points were fouled and I got them working, but I can't get it to spin fast enough to come to life on ether. I pulled all the plugs and put PB blaster down the cylinders to loosen up the rings. I will try to spin it over again tommorrow.
Does anyone know what the point gap on something like this should be? As I mentioned it is a 2 barrel v-8 and I am guessing a late 60s or early 70s model.

 

[tech51]

A 345 or 392 V8?

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

Do you know how to tell the difference? the distributor is in the front.
I am going to spend some time over at binder planet and see if I can figure anything out.

 

[Silver Burner]

Don't all Ford's have the distributor in the front? I thought it was the GM's were the only ones have the impossible to work on rear distributor. Sorry, not much help here though...

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

This is an international harvester 1310

 

[Rot Box]

I'm not an expert on the really old IH stuff but there were several different sized V8's used throughout the years.

Its doubtful being that old, but if its a 345 or 392 you're in luck. I'm pretty sure they had a 75 year or 1.5 million mile (whichever comes first) overhaul recommendation They're built like a brick poop house!

 

[Silver Burner]

This is an international harvester 1310

My bad, sorry.

 

[tech51]

Try .016-.020 on points and .035 on plugs

 

[Alex S]

If you look on the passenger side of the engine under No 2 exhaust port there is a flat boss with the engine size stamped into it. *Some times "345" will be cast on the cylinder head under the valve cover. Also a trained eye can tell you if its a 304 vs 345/392 by the size of the coolant buy-pas hose


She looks prety rough but maybe its worth finding some body panels or a better cab and throwing in an IDI

 

[tech51]

If it's the AMC 304 it will be easier to parts for.

 

[icanfixall]

This might be the points you need... If not just enter on ebay International Points.... Up comes plenty of differant points sets for all kinds of differant engines...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/IGNI...s&fits=Make:International&hash=item483dd35a0d

 

[flareside_thun]

I agree, the 304 will be much easier to buy parts for. I had a 345 here a few years ago and was looking to freshen it up...uhhh no. But the 345's are some torquey ******** for sure. If the body isn't salvageable, I'm sure some binder nut will strip you of the carcass.

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

If you look on the passenger side of the engine under No 2 exhaust port there is a flat boss with the engine size stamped into it. *Some times "345" will be cast on the cylinder head under the valve cover. Also a trained eye can tell you if its a 304 vs 345/392 by the size of the coolant buy-pas hose


She looks prety rough but maybe its worth finding some body panels or a better cab and throwing in an IDI

I just went out to look, but in rereading your post I was looking in the wrong spot. It has "353" cast into the head below the number 2 exhaust port.
The coolant bypass hose looks like 2". It is ridiculously large.
Yeah, the truck is pretty rusty, but it has southern rust which is limited to the body panels, the frame is good. Under the hood it actually looks to have been well taken care of.
I will try to fire it off again tommorrow and will check the engine size in the right spot.

 

[Alex S]

hmmm ok well with the water tube its more of a leangh thing then a diameter measurement. The stamp can be found on this BOSS its more below and off to the side of the port lol... is a real pain to get to to read

 

[RLDSL]

Point gap... That's what you carry a match book for