How big of a job is a rear main on these?

[icanfixall]

This is the Ford part number with the sleeve... F2TZ-6701-A. When you buy this seal it has the installation tool in it but... Its kinda a crappy plastic tool... Ford parts online cost was around $50.00 and international was around $85.00 for the same item....

 

[icanfixall]

Nice clear pics calvin.....

 

[Optikalillushun]

Me thinks mine is dribbling from the rear main a little, thanks for the part number.

 

[homelessduck]

I just called around for seals/gaskets.. Looks like a complete gasket kit is $211 with a rear main, no valley pan. The valley pan is $60. Plus the sleeve kit and tool. Hopefully everything goes well and I do not have to do this multiple times, in a short period of time.

 

[dyoung14]

So how and were does this sleeve install?

 

[towcat]

So how and were does this sleeve install?

see the groove in pic #1?
the sleeve is in the installer in pic #2
the installed sleeve is in pic #3

 

[dyoung14]

see the groove in pic #1?
the sleeve is in the installer in pic #2
the installed sleeve is in pic #3

So do i just hammer it onto the crank? and it still uses the standard seal, and were do you buy your sleeves and tools from?

 

[towcat]

So do i just hammer it onto the crank? and it still uses the standard seal, and were do you buy your sleeves and tools from?

just beat it onto there and use a normal seal.
check out post #8 for the part number and manufacturer of the items.

 

[93iditurbo]

I wouldn't just "pound" the sleeve on, press it on with a tool. Also I believe the seal in the sleeve kit is not like a stock one, the inside diameter will be a little larger to compensate for the sleeve

 

[homelessduck]

I have been speaking to several people regarding the part number above, and everyone says there is no sleeve installation tool included. I'm assuming it is included, but not listed ..(?)

 

[icanfixall]

Who ever you are talking with are full-o-$hit.... We have posted pictures of it.. We have given part numbers that include all the needed tools and parts... We have posted that these are the parts we have experiance using so... Who ya gonna believe.. Those of us that have used these parts or some person on the other side of the parts counter telling you something he "thinks"...... It can't get more clear. I'm sure you are trying to understand all the information coming at you. One person you want to trust at the counter and then those of us that know from experiance using these parts....

 

[homelessduck]

I didn't mean to sound like I doubted anyone on here. I was just asking if the tool was not listed when the part number is looked up, as the Ford dealer and a buddy at a local parts store said it is not showing the tool. I believe you guys ,lol. I was just wondering why it wasn't listed.

 

[icanfixall]

Alright.... In the "kit" from Ford you get lots of "stuff". You get the seal.... The wear sleeve... The installer tool for both plus... Four plastic dowls that are driven into the crank flange so the tool slides the sleeve and the seal on as one piece... That doesn't not work.... I tried several ways of doing this... The directions also state not to remove the seal from the wear sleeve or the seal will be ruined.... Not so either... also install these double lip seals dry. Nope... I applied very little oil to the lips just to lube them... I don't understand whay a seal is to be installed dry. I kinda think its because the seal material isn't a rubber product but a teflon type material. Anyway mine are in and not leaking...... Yet... How long will they run without leakage.... For me I pressed the seal into the rear cover plate after I installed the sleeve on the crank. I used permatex avaitation cement thats in the small bottle and it has a brush aplicater. That went on the seal to plate surface and the crank to sleeve area. All is just fine... The seal will need to be installed deeper in the cover plate so both seal lips ride on the new crank surface. Also now for some really scarry stuff nobody ever talks about... That rear plate.... It needs to be aligned really closely to the crank... One side of the mounting pins has a cut so you can move the plate up or down for alignment but... Having the dial indicaters for this is really beyond most guys. Then the runout of the seal needs to be within around 0.015... Now remember the crank has some main bearing runout too. That 0.0025 to 0.0085 and at 0.012 things are to be repaired because they are out of specs... The thrust bearing has met its wear limits.... Hard to determine without a dial indicater too..... This isn't to sacre anyone about doing a rear main seal install. Just some information for the job.....

 

[homelessduck]

Great... so that rear cover can go on crooked? Maybe I will just leave it on then... That is weird about installing it dry.. Also, you used aviation cement to glue the seal to the sleeve? The lips of the seal should be just in front of the sleeve, towards the front, and the seal itself sits on the sleeve?

Wow, this just got complicated.

 

[icanfixall]

No duck... I didn't glue the seal to the sleeve.... I glued the seal to the rear plate and the sleeve to the damaged crank seal area... Do not glue the seal to the sleeve.... What I was posteing about is the installation of the seal in the cover plate. If one side of it is deeper than the other side the seal will be "worked" in and out as the crank spins. That seal must be within 15 thousands of square in the plate. Also that plate needs to be aligned with the crank by 20 thousands. That plate can be moved up or down that much easily. Just install the cover plate without the seal in it and get a feel for the amount of movement you have. As you set it on the crank the seal will align it where it needs to be. Then just tighten up the 7 bolts. You can still move this plate before you try tightening it. Its a feel thing you will get. Ford does sell a gasket for that rear cover plate but.... We don't use one for the oil pan... Why use one for that cover. Its all un the same inviroment and pressure. Just make very sure you get the joint at the oil pan flange and the oil pan really clean and use plenty of rtv at the juncture. You don't need half a tube there... Just enough to see it squeeze out some like the pan being attached to the block.... Ask questions first... Then we can help you avoid costly mistakes.....